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Old 11-03-2003, 04:41 AM   #9646
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Originally posted by Taylor-Racing
Grrrr . . I did mesh them. . . . and yesterday, I was thinking how much I liked that Tamiya thread locking compound, too.
I guess it's back to 243 for those engine screws.
Gav

I have never use any threadlock on engine srcew, just make sure you do extra 1/8th of a turn when the engine is hot. had never fail on me yet!!!
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Old 11-03-2003, 07:05 AM   #9647
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Originally posted by Taylor-Racing
Grrrr . . I did mesh them. . . . and yesterday, I was thinking how much I liked that Tamiya thread locking compound, too.
I guess it's back to 243 for those engine screws.
Tamiya threadlock.....not the blue stuff.....it is only good for plastic. Heat it up and it goes soft!! I normally stick with AE for metal to metal....but to be honest I don't use for the engine...
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Old 11-03-2003, 11:12 PM   #9648
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Interesting note for those guys who like the stiffer rear sway bars.

Itoh ran a new trial rear swaybar (?i??j) which is 2.8mm thick on the rear of his FW05R. Will be interesting to see if it makes it into production. This bar is 16% stiffer than the gold which should make it pretty stiff. The shortening trick performed by some others on this forum stiffens the bar by around 20%.
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Old 11-04-2003, 04:36 AM   #9649
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Quote:
Originally posted by tl2111
Gav

I have never use any threadlock on engine srcew, just make sure you do extra 1/8th of a turn when the engine is hot. had never fail on me yet!!!
Noted, Tommy - good idea.


Quote:
Originally posted by dtm
Tamiya threadlock.....not the blue stuff.....it is only good for plastic. Heat it up and it goes soft!! I normally stick with AE for metal to metal....but to be honest I don't use for the engine...
Yes the blue stuff. I was trying it out on the old V-One R plastics and thought it pretty good. It's supposed to be OK for metal/metal also, I believe but I'd always used Locktite 243 for the likes of engine screws.
You don't use any thread lock, either.

I guess I should get some proper countersunk washers as we used on the old car.
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Old 11-04-2003, 04:46 AM   #9650
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Quote:
Originally posted by AMGRacer
Interesting note for those guys who like the stiffer rear sway bars.

Itoh ran a new trial rear swaybar (?iZ<caron>Z<caron>??j) which is 2.8mm thick on the rear of his FW05R. Will be interesting to see if it makes it into production. This bar is 16% stiffer than the gold which should make it pretty stiff. The shortening trick performed by some others on this forum stiffens the bar by around 20%.
I'm not familiar with the diameter of the FW05R bar, but doesn't the stiffness increase by a factor of four, proportional to the diameter or something . . . it's a long time since I did physics.

Similarly, (and I think I can be more accurate) moving the location of the stops on the V-One R/RR/Evo up to half way should double the stiffness, shouldn't it.

Where the hell is my physics book.
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Old 11-04-2003, 03:09 PM   #9651
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Quote:
Originally posted by Taylor-Racing
I'm not familiar with the diameter of the FW05R bar, but doesn't the stiffness increase by a factor of four, proportional to the diameter or something . . . it's a long time since I did physics.

Similarly, (and I think I can be more accurate) moving the location of the stops on the V-One R/RR/Evo up to half way should double the stiffness, shouldn't it.

Where the hell is my physics book.
The stiffness of a round bar increases in proportion to its cross section assuming the hardness of the materials is equal. Thus pi * r ^ 2 needs to be compared.

For the stiffness by length the leverage force is again simplistically linear so I assumed going from 60mm to 50mm (I guessed the 50 mm part ) on a 65mm bar would be a linear stiffness increase of 20%. If you go half way (32.5mm) then you are right it is far more.

My figures are only estimates, sheesh man

BTW I do use threadlock on all my engine mounting to chassis screws. On a 20-30 minute final I want to be sure this thing aint gonna move, and I cannot be certain that I will not put it into the wall at least once
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Old 11-04-2003, 06:55 PM   #9652
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Originally posted by Taylor-Racing
Ahhhh . . .
Well, I really wasn't fishing - not this time, anyway.

Naturally I was happy for my driver but would have preferred they fought it out tooth and nail. As it turned out, he just had the least crippled car and was able to gain an extra place.

. . . . still, his pit-man did a masterfull job and as I always say, ya take the wins where ya find 'em.
Absolutely, get enough sh1t luck so I never have a problem accepting any good luck.

What Gav is still avoiding saying is that Team Taylor took out the SERCCC pro touring championship for 2003. It went down to the wire, in the end, in the final, after replacing the stripped gear (i think), they returned to the track just to pick up points. Their last lap of the race moved them up past a retired car by one lap, gaining enough points to win the championship by 1 point.

Last lap of last race to win by 1 point , a nailbiter.

Congrats

DC

P.S I dont loctite engine screws either, found they became too hard to get out and its a real pain to get an engine out when the screw strips. The only time i have issues are when I have a big crash or I forget to tighten them properly.
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Old 11-04-2003, 07:06 PM   #9653
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Originally posted by OZDC
Absolutely, get enough sh1t luck so I never have a problem accepting any good luck.

What Gav is still avoiding saying is that Team Taylor took out the SERCCC pro touring championship for 2003. It went down to the wire, in the end, in the final, after replacing the stripped gear (i think), they returned to the track just to pick up points. Their last lap of the race moved them up past a retired car by one lap, gaining enough points to win the championship by 1 point.

Last lap of last race to win by 1 point , a nailbiter.

Congrats

DC

P.S I dont loctite engine screws either, found they became too hard to get out and its a real pain to get an engine out when the screw strips. The only time i have issues are when I have a big crash or I forget to tighten them properly.
Ooooohhh .... congrats to Gav and Sam !
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Old 11-04-2003, 10:22 PM   #9654
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Quote:
Originally posted by Taylor-Racing
I'm not familiar with the diameter of the FW05R bar, but doesn't the stiffness increase by a factor of four, proportional to the diameter or something . . . it's a long time since I did physics.

Similarly, (and I think I can be more accurate) moving the location of the stops on the V-One R/RR/Evo up to half way should double the stiffness, shouldn't it.

Where the hell is my physics book.
I think your physics book is back at your old high school like mine is, remember we are old and do not need to know such complicated matters as such

Good show, winning championship. did you get a big peanut bowl?
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Old 11-05-2003, 03:41 AM   #9655
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Quote:
Originally posted by HEYALIGNMENTGUY
I think your physics book is back at your old high school like mine is, remember we are old and do not need to know such complicated matters as such
Your right . . . can't remember much physics, though I remember a certain physics teacher. I thought she was just beautiful - probably explains my physics memory.

Quote:
Originally posted by HEYALIGNMENTGUY
Good show, winning championship. did you get a big peanut bowl?
Thanks HAG and guys,

I think he gets a trophy and his name on a perpetual shield or something - presentation night is later this month.

Racing will soon start to wind down for the year. We have one more club meeting and the VORTEC Championships at the end of November in Castlemaine. OZDC will again undoubtedly show his prowess at Mini-Z Pool.
In January, we'll have the Victorian Titles at Lilydale. This is where OZDC and V-One S Racer hail from. There will be half of Australia there and will undoubtedly serve as reality check compared to the recent club win.
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Old 11-05-2003, 03:47 AM   #9656
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Quote:
Originally posted by AMGRacer
My figures are only estimates, sheesh man
. . . yeah, I was getting a bit anal, wasn't I.

Quote:
Originally posted by AMGRacer
BTW I do use threadlock on all my engine mounting to chassis screws. On a 20-30 minute final I want to be sure this thing aint gonna move, and I cannot be certain that I will not put it into the wall at least once
Thank heavens for that . . . I was starting to think I was the only one using it.
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Old 11-05-2003, 03:51 AM   #9657
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Originally posted by Hank
Hey Mr Manticore

How do they fit in the car? i thought you have to use 1/2 AA to make a hump pack. Do you have a pic of the battery pack so i can make one up.

thanks
Hank
I copied what dtm has done to his 5xAAA on my EVO.

things you need:-

3racing upper deck support
battery mount for V1R or V1RR
5mm tall spacer x2
2 long screws
and
5xAAA size batteries
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Old 11-05-2003, 03:51 AM   #9658
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One more
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Old 11-05-2003, 04:54 AM   #9659
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Default battery pack for evo

Thank you Mr Manticore
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Old 11-05-2003, 05:30 AM   #9660
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manti, nice pic !!

I know you are using Mugen clutch + small size fly wheel ... I see the mod on the buttom chassis near the clutch bell ... which engine mount you are using ? can you show me ?

it seems no mod need for the upper deck mod ?
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