1LikesKyosho VoneR Thread
10-06-2003, 10:17 PM
#9406
Tech Regular
The hot pocket worked fine for the final and i didn't charge it in between the third heat and final 
.
.
10-06-2003, 10:20 PM
#9407
newbie question guys, whats the difference between the v-one-rr and the v-one-r? and is the v-one-rr evolution the same as the v-one-rr? also the difference between the v-one-s and v-one-r(rr)? just asking coz i plan on switching from electric touring to nitro touring and kyosho is one of the choices i have for a kit. thanks!
10-06-2003, 10:22 PM
#9408
Tech Regular
Re: Shock Oils
Originally posted by Taylor-Racing
At our last race meeting, I was experimenting with limiting droop to the barest minimum in order to try a different approach to keeping the car flat. We are still using the stock (black) springs, kit oils and with bars set to softest all round. The track is medium size, medium traction and technical.
During the first heat, the car looked terrible. This was a 20ºC day and we were using 35/35 tyres as per the previous weekend when it was 12ºC - a wrong tyre choice.
We changed to 37/37 for the next heat and the car was a lot better but became rather "skatey" as the heat progressed. This was not all that unexpected, but I figured the experiment was worthwhile. The interesting thing that came out of this was on checking over the car, it seemed there was little or no spring damping. I presumed the shocks had "gained" some air so took them off to check. The shocks were fine and not spongy, so I could only deduce that the kit oil was suffering from the heat and thinned out somewhat. I'm guessing a bit here as I thought that silicon oil was relatively temp stable. If I'm correct the kit oil works out to be 45W or something.
Anyway, I replaced the front oil with 60W and re-set the droop to normal.
During the last heat the front was fine but the rear was still bouncing a bit more than I thought it should.
So yesterday we ran with 80W front and 60W in the rear, taking a cue from finchy's set-up somewhat. This worked pretty well, I thought and really tamed the car making it easy to drive. To look at it another way, it may also have taken the sharp edge off the handling. I put this point to my driver. He just said that if the car's stable, he can push it harder. That's not much of an answer is it? - I s'pose there's more than one way to skin this cat.
Anyway, it was all good enough to win the final yesterday.
Dexter was in second, so a good day for the Evo's.
I should note that two of the fast guys were away yesterday - one at the Nat's and another at the off-road state titles, but hey!
Who's Your Daddy
At our last race meeting, I was experimenting with limiting droop to the barest minimum in order to try a different approach to keeping the car flat. We are still using the stock (black) springs, kit oils and with bars set to softest all round. The track is medium size, medium traction and technical.
During the first heat, the car looked terrible. This was a 20ºC day and we were using 35/35 tyres as per the previous weekend when it was 12ºC - a wrong tyre choice.
We changed to 37/37 for the next heat and the car was a lot better but became rather "skatey" as the heat progressed. This was not all that unexpected, but I figured the experiment was worthwhile. The interesting thing that came out of this was on checking over the car, it seemed there was little or no spring damping. I presumed the shocks had "gained" some air so took them off to check. The shocks were fine and not spongy, so I could only deduce that the kit oil was suffering from the heat and thinned out somewhat. I'm guessing a bit here as I thought that silicon oil was relatively temp stable. If I'm correct the kit oil works out to be 45W or something.
Anyway, I replaced the front oil with 60W and re-set the droop to normal.
During the last heat the front was fine but the rear was still bouncing a bit more than I thought it should.
So yesterday we ran with 80W front and 60W in the rear, taking a cue from finchy's set-up somewhat. This worked pretty well, I thought and really tamed the car making it easy to drive. To look at it another way, it may also have taken the sharp edge off the handling. I put this point to my driver. He just said that if the car's stable, he can push it harder. That's not much of an answer is it? - I s'pose there's more than one way to skin this cat.
Anyway, it was all good enough to win the final yesterday.
Dexter was in second, so a good day for the Evo's.
I should note that two of the fast guys were away yesterday - one at the Nat's and another at the off-road state titles, but hey!
Who's Your Daddy
10-06-2003, 10:26 PM
#9409
Originally posted by sup
newbie question guys, whats the difference between the v-one-rr and the v-one-r? and is the v-one-rr evolution the same as the v-one-rr? also the difference between the v-one-s and v-one-r(rr)? just asking coz i plan on switching from electric touring to nitro touring and kyosho is one of the choices i have for a kit. thanks!
newbie question guys, whats the difference between the v-one-rr and the v-one-r? and is the v-one-rr evolution the same as the v-one-rr? also the difference between the v-one-s and v-one-r(rr)? just asking coz i plan on switching from electric touring to nitro touring and kyosho is one of the choices i have for a kit. thanks!
v1-rr...centax clutch with lola body set up with 25 T side pulleythe
v1-rr evo...centax clutch with lower geometry compared with v1-rr(best of 3)
10-06-2003, 10:28 PM
#9410
Tech Regular
And far superior front geometry .
.
10-06-2003, 10:34 PM
#9411
wow! that was a quick reply.. thanks for the info! can the basic v1-r be upgraded to v1-rr (or even rr evo) specs? i will be using the car for touring only (i think i dont have the guts to race lola yet, its scary fast! hehe!), will the v1-r do? still have a lot to learn about nitro coz i come from electric, do you guys know any website i could visit to introduce me to nitro touring, engine and tuning, etc? thanks a lot!
10-06-2003, 10:42 PM
#9412
Tech Regular
Personally, Unless you already have a VoneR i would just get an EVO because everything gets superceeded really quick and if u just buy an R you are starting behind the 8 ball already. Neway the Evo is a superior machine and they can be obtained very cheaply new.
10-06-2003, 10:57 PM
#9413
Originally posted by Dexter
Personally, Unless you already have a VoneR i would just get an EVO because everything gets superceeded really quick and if u just buy an R you are starting behind the 8 ball already. Neway the Evo is a superior machine and they can be obtained very cheaply new.
Personally, Unless you already have a VoneR i would just get an EVO because everything gets superceeded really quick and if u just buy an R you are starting behind the 8 ball already. Neway the Evo is a superior machine and they can be obtained very cheaply new.
10-07-2003, 02:00 PM
#9414
Re: Shock Oils
Originally posted by Taylor-Racing
At our last race meeting, I was experimenting with limiting droop to the barest minimum in order to try a different approach to keeping the car flat. We are still using the stock (black) springs, kit oils and with bars set to softest all round. The track is medium size, medium traction and technical.
During the first heat, the car looked terrible. This was a 20ºC day and we were using 35/35 tyres as per the previous weekend when it was 12ºC - a wrong tyre choice.
We changed to 37/37 for the next heat and the car was a lot better but became rather "skatey" as the heat progressed. This was not all that unexpected, but I figured the experiment was worthwhile. The interesting thing that came out of this was on checking over the car, it seemed there was little or no spring damping. I presumed the shocks had "gained" some air so took them off to check. The shocks were fine and not spongy, so I could only deduce that the kit oil was suffering from the heat and thinned out somewhat. I'm guessing a bit here as I thought that silicon oil was relatively temp stable. If I'm correct the kit oil works out to be 45W or something.
Anyway, I replaced the front oil with 60W and re-set the droop to normal.
During the last heat the front was fine but the rear was still bouncing a bit more than I thought it should.
So yesterday we ran with 80W front and 60W in the rear, taking a cue from finchy's set-up somewhat. This worked pretty well, I thought and really tamed the car making it easy to drive. To look at it another way, it may also have taken the sharp edge off the handling. I put this point to my driver. He just said that if the car's stable, he can push it harder. That's not much of an answer is it? - I s'pose there's more than one way to skin this cat.
Anyway, it was all good enough to win the final yesterday.
Dexter was in second, so a good day for the Evo's.
I should note that two of the fast guys were away yesterday - one at the Nat's and another at the off-road state titles, but hey!
Who's Your Daddy
At our last race meeting, I was experimenting with limiting droop to the barest minimum in order to try a different approach to keeping the car flat. We are still using the stock (black) springs, kit oils and with bars set to softest all round. The track is medium size, medium traction and technical.
During the first heat, the car looked terrible. This was a 20ºC day and we were using 35/35 tyres as per the previous weekend when it was 12ºC - a wrong tyre choice.
We changed to 37/37 for the next heat and the car was a lot better but became rather "skatey" as the heat progressed. This was not all that unexpected, but I figured the experiment was worthwhile. The interesting thing that came out of this was on checking over the car, it seemed there was little or no spring damping. I presumed the shocks had "gained" some air so took them off to check. The shocks were fine and not spongy, so I could only deduce that the kit oil was suffering from the heat and thinned out somewhat. I'm guessing a bit here as I thought that silicon oil was relatively temp stable. If I'm correct the kit oil works out to be 45W or something.
Anyway, I replaced the front oil with 60W and re-set the droop to normal.
During the last heat the front was fine but the rear was still bouncing a bit more than I thought it should.
So yesterday we ran with 80W front and 60W in the rear, taking a cue from finchy's set-up somewhat. This worked pretty well, I thought and really tamed the car making it easy to drive. To look at it another way, it may also have taken the sharp edge off the handling. I put this point to my driver. He just said that if the car's stable, he can push it harder. That's not much of an answer is it? - I s'pose there's more than one way to skin this cat.
Anyway, it was all good enough to win the final yesterday.
Dexter was in second, so a good day for the Evo's.
I should note that two of the fast guys were away yesterday - one at the Nat's and another at the off-road state titles, but hey!
Who's Your Daddy
With the 80/60 the car should be very "chuckable".
10-07-2003, 02:03 PM
#9415
Originally posted by Taylor-Racing
Go easy here, the Rody has modest
static compression.
. . . . anyway it doesn't seem to slow it down much, does it.
But really, I have no idea what's wrong with your JP. It's not like the experts haven't had a go at it.
It's pristine inside, plenty of compression, no air leaks, makes good power, yet it plays up like a second hand mower.
I'd be re-setting the needles to stock and starting again. Next, I'd try an extra head shim in it.
Didn't I offer to take it off your hands for $20?
Go easy here, the Rody has modest
static compression. . . . . anyway it doesn't seem to slow it down much, does it.
But really, I have no idea what's wrong with your JP. It's not like the experts haven't had a go at it.
It's pristine inside, plenty of compression, no air leaks, makes good power, yet it plays up like a second hand mower.
I'd be re-setting the needles to stock and starting again. Next, I'd try an extra head shim in it.
Didn't I offer to take it off your hands for $20?
10-07-2003, 09:10 PM
#9416
Tech Master
Re: Re: Shock Oils
Originally posted by AMGRacer
Interesting that you guys like the harder oils. I personally went for 30/30 and it makes the car VERY VERY responsive. Actually it is quite tough to drive, but feels oh so sweet With the 80/60 the car should be very "chuckable".
Interesting that you guys like the harder oils. I personally went for 30/30 and it makes the car VERY VERY responsive. Actually it is quite tough to drive, but feels oh so sweet
With the 80/60 the car should be very "chuckable".
can you explane "chuckable" to those of us in N. Amarica
10-07-2003, 09:24 PM
#9417
Re: Re: Re: Shock Oils
Originally posted by HEYALIGNMENTGUY
I run the 80/60 with black springs and no rear sway bar and mine has never been more stable with this .
can you explane "chuckable" to those of us in N. Amarica
I run the 80/60 with black springs and no rear sway bar and mine has never been more stable with this .
can you explane "chuckable" to those of us in N. Amarica
10-07-2003, 10:51 PM
#9418
Re: Re: Re: Re: Shock Oils
Originally posted by Manticore
how about to those of us in HK too ?
how about to those of us in HK too ?
10-08-2003, 12:32 AM
#9419
just to follow up on my question guys. if i opt to buy a v-one-r, is it possible for me to convert it to a v-one-rr evo? just asking coz im planning to get a 2nd hand v-one-r due to budget constraints.
10-08-2003, 01:16 AM
#9420
Tech Regular
By the time you've fully converted an R to an EVO you would be better off buying an evo kit because the price would be comparable and you would also get a b rand spanking new car.