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Old 09-04-2003, 11:59 PM   #8911
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Unhappy High speed is the big one (with the crank pointing at you) on the left side of the ca

Hi Tl2lll,

I'm not sure. Still trying to find out more about it. I will have to check the box again. If I haven't thrown it away : (
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Old 09-05-2003, 12:42 AM   #8912
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Default Re: Fail Safe

Quote:
Originally posted by apmk
Hello Manticore,

Nice job done there, any ideal what fail safe unit good for fitting onto the EVO.

BTW do you have one on yours? Any pics to show?

Or can the MTX3 reveiver box accommodate Both receiver & a fail safe in it?

Cheers!
i dont use failsafe at all. we run at a proper track with frequency control. besides, i use HRS receiver which also serve as an additional protection.

The MTX3 receiver box is only enough to put in a small to medium receiver and no room left for anything thicker then 4mm
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Old 09-05-2003, 01:05 AM   #8913
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Default Re: Re: Fail Safe

Quote:
Originally posted by Manticore
i dont use failsafe at all. we run at a proper track with frequency control. besides, i use HRS receiver which also serve as an additional protection.

The MTX3 receiver box is only enough to put in a small to medium receiver and no room left for anything thicker then 4mm
Thanks Manticore.
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Old 09-05-2003, 01:10 AM   #8914
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Quote:
Originally posted by tl2111
Gav

I don't think there is any fundamental error, I think I'm just unlucky on this holder. without install the blade and the adjusting screw the arm move up and down smoothly as soon as I tighten it(without blade) no more smooth action
Tommy, I guess I'm stumped then.

How about this:

Pull out the lower pin till it's nearly out of the bulkhead, tighten the holder screw and see which way the pin moves. Loosen the screw a little and see if the knob will move it back to the correct alignment.
This might help determine if the hinge pin hole on the arm is out of whack.
My lower pins were only bent at the ends - I only guessed it was due to the method used to gring the flats. They would move smoothly in one orientation but when rotated, say 90, they would bind.

Maybe another way to do it is to remove the hinge pin, tighten up the adjusting screw and then see if you can install the pin.

Dunno if any of this helps.
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Old 09-05-2003, 01:22 AM   #8915
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Quote:
Originally posted by tl2111
The problem that I have with the plastic holder is when I tighten the adjusting screw it bent the arm pin which make the suspension not working probably even without the blade installed.
The force can't b tat great so as to bend the frn't arm pins??....New Kyosho arm pins tend to be a bit rough....maybe the hole fitting of the stab holder is very tight, causing u tat problem. Take out the arm pins n fix it directly onto the hole of the stab holder n c is there any binding...It's a pain in the ass when assemblying kits with problems
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Old 09-05-2003, 01:26 AM   #8916
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Quote:
Originally posted by AMGRacer
I built my kit as per the Kyosho instructions which included setting the rear arm droop at +4mm. When I had the car together completely the arms would not drop all the way to the droop limit setscrews.

I had built the rear shocks as per instructions with 13mm shaft length and using the longer ball ends and attached to the lower hole. I found that if I increased the rear shock shaft length to 14mm the car achieves full +4mm droop (rather than +6mm).

With my car at 5mm ride height the +4mm droop allows the rear end to rise to 9mm before the wheels leave the ground.
I think I noted before that I became completely befuddled by the rear shocks.
page 20 and 21 show conflicting positions for the lower mounting. I guessed that some of the pic's may have been carried over from the RR manual, but never actually having an RR, I'm speculating. Anyway, I couldn't get the car down anywhere near a reasonable ride height, so I used the shorter ends, set the shafts to 12mm and used the upper holes on the arms - this works fine. There is also a chance of the roll bar touching the shocks if using the lower hole on the arm, on our car. I guess I should get the full rear sway bar set, eh?
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Old 09-05-2003, 01:38 AM   #8917
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Quote:
Originally posted by Manticore
i believe either your tire is a bit hard for your track. usually softer tire will give you cone shape with smaller diameter on outter edge and harder tire will give you cone shape on inner edge of the tire.
Yep, this is quite possible.
The reason it happens is that with softer tyres, you have more total grip, the car rolls more and you end up with tyres coned outwards.
With harder tyres, there's less grip, less chassis roll and the tyres can cone inwards.

Adjust all settings accordingly.
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Old 09-05-2003, 02:11 AM   #8918
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Quote:
Originally posted by B4
In my humble opinion the brace is a must have. I can not prove that it offers better handling however for the small cost in relation to the overall spend on these cars why not run it. The car is designed to have one there. I would rather pay for a brace and reduce the chance of chassis twisting than have to buy a new chassis.
Here's my hypothosys.
There has been an interesting design shift between the RR and the Evo at the rear point where the top plate mounts to the chassis. You might notice that the RR had longtitudinal mounts with no lateral bracing, making optional alloy mounts probably worthwhile. The Evo has no longtitudinal bracing at this point, instead using lateral bracing in the form of the supports/battery holder.
It may be that torsional stiffness up to this point is a bit better on the Evo, since it has this lateral brace and more widely spaced screws at the front end of the top plate, but I'm not sure how much we miss those longtitudinal mounts - if at all.

Looking at the rear bulkheads/suspension area, there is a right brace which should take care of most torsional loads, but on the left there is nothing to tie that rear left corner to the main part of the chassis/top deck.

For that reason, I'd like one - but I'd hesitate to say it's a must have.
I guess the other reality is that the vast majority of us on this thread would not be able to feel it, sad to say.
The presence, or otherwise of the left brace is unlikely to have an impact on the chances of bending the chassis, I'd reckon.
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Old 09-05-2003, 02:18 AM   #8919
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Quote:
Originally posted by Dexter
What are the 'adjusting knobs' on the front swaybar?
Part 251 on Page 7.
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Old 09-05-2003, 02:26 AM   #8920
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Talking check out the new thread

Taylor-Racing, Manticore, AMGRacer, and everyone else,

Check out a new thread I posted in Nitro On-Road called "Foam Tire Truing". IMHO, you guys have very good knowledge about foam tire usage and characteristics and can shed some light
(especially for me ) on that topic, and kick it off just right!
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Old 09-05-2003, 02:29 AM   #8921
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Quote:
Originally posted by HEYALIGNMENTGUY
Hello All I am in the process of changing my M1RR to EvoM1RR

Have most of you used the new Spurs and pinions

Looks like they changed the pitch on the gears.
also want to know does it have the same final gear ratio as before(1st and 2nd) ?
Our spurs/pinions arrived yesterday, so we'll try them out tomorrow, weather permitting.

Yes the pitch is changed but the principal is the same.
. . . except that small rocks will do more damage than before.

. . . 'frinstance, if you normally use a 16T pinion and a 48T spur for first gear, your new equivilent gearing will be 20/60.
The rest of the internal gearing is the same as the RR.
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Old 09-05-2003, 02:31 AM   #8922
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Default Re: Re: V-One RR

Quote:
Originally posted by tl2111
What is SME stand for
Small and Medium Enterprise.

I hate these TLA's.
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Old 09-05-2003, 02:48 AM   #8923
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As promised pics of the anti-gravity EVO.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg im000057.jpg (71.0 KB, 109 views)
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Old 09-05-2003, 02:53 AM   #8924
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Default Re: Re: Re: V-One RR

Quote:
Originally posted by Taylor-Racing
Small and Medium Enterprise.

I hate these TLA's.
Scary I thought the same thing when I read that..................

I work for IBM. Ever notice that the computer is 2001 was called HAL which is 1 letter backwards in the alphabet from IBM.................... Coincidence?
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Old 09-05-2003, 02:55 AM   #8925
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Quote:
Originally posted by Taylor-Racing
Yep, this is quite possible.
The reason it happens is that with softer tyres, you have more total grip, the car rolls more and you end up with tyres coned outwards.
With harder tyres, there's less grip, less chassis roll and the tyres can cone inwards.

Adjust all settings accordingly.
Yeah I copy you and Manti on these explainations BUT.............

Why is this occuring when I use the same tire combo as the last 2 years with the same camber amounts on the same track with a different car..................

Or am I jusst delusional................
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