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Old 09-04-2003, 12:03 AM   #8866
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Quote:
Originally posted by zech
Thank you Manticore!

BTW I am running front diff, shouldn't I use 375 belt with 25T pulley? Or what should my configuration be?
it doesnt matter if it is 375 or 384 but you need a belt with appropriate length. 25T or 27T you need to find out which one is the best for you but remember to use tire split if you run OD gearing i.e. 25T pulley
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Old 09-04-2003, 12:04 AM   #8867
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Quote:
Originally posted by Data
don't be lazy now, you are the one who has all the time (and money)
yeah.. pls sent over some money ..
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Old 09-04-2003, 12:06 AM   #8868
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Quote:
Originally posted by Vinyard
same place??
Different place.
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Old 09-04-2003, 12:08 AM   #8869
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Quote:
Originally posted by Data
so are you saying the driver accounts for the win, not the car ?
i wonder if he knows what he was talking about. he is still figuring out what he was talking.
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Old 09-04-2003, 12:12 AM   #8870
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Quote:
Originally posted by Manticore
where is punk the fish?
he is swimming somewhere in the middle of the Pacific, hope he finds his way home
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Old 09-04-2003, 12:16 AM   #8871
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Quote:
Originally posted by Data
he is swimming somewhere in the middle of the Pacific, hope he finds his way home
he's searching for the ultimate KY inorder to gain higher enlightenment to nirvana!!!
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Old 09-04-2003, 12:31 AM   #8872
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And something that i have to fine tune.. Any suggestion.
1. The steering servo horn is to close -afraid rubbing with top deck.

2. The throttle linkage tight under the handle - rubbing have to adjust the engine th handle to downward.

3. The receiver need to be covered and the wire dressing is a mess!

Picture would tell alot other thing... Check it out

Esham_evo picture
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Last edited by esham; 09-04-2003 at 01:53 AM.
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Old 09-04-2003, 12:34 AM   #8873
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your pictures didnt show up ! esham !
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Old 09-04-2003, 01:32 AM   #8874
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Quote:
Originally posted by AMGRacer
I agree the eccentric knobs can often be off. My car with shocks equal length and precicely the same droop requires the knobs to be at quite different positions to remove the tweak.

I am sure this is a molding problem from left to right.
Agreed - ours also has the knobs in different places. I would expect there is a moulding "tolerance" but I'll also bet those blades aren't dead straight. There will be tolerances in the lower arm holes, the lower suspension pins, the bolts . . . all of it. And that's just one side of the suspension.
If you consider the geometry involved I would be surprised to see any holders having equal knobs, and after all, who cares - this is the function of the knobs.

Having previously used the K-Factory alloy holders with NO eccentrics (who thought that up) I have spent much time fiddling with these things to eliminate a potential built in tweak. My K-Factory experience has left me slightly paranoid and I've re-checked the Evo plastic ones twice. So far so good.


Quote:
Originally posted by tl2111

The problem that I have with the plastic holder is when I tighten the adjusting screw it bent the arm pin which make the suspension not working probably even without the blade installed.
There must be something fundamental wrong here, I reckon, but could only guess as to the cause.

Were the lower pins bent in the first place? - mine were.
Up-stops making contact, maybe?
The "ball" ended blade bottoming out in the "cup" ended blade?

I've had all these and more with those wonderfully designed K-Factory articles.
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Old 09-04-2003, 01:55 AM   #8875
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Quote:
Originally posted by Manticore
your pictures didnt show up ! esham !
Yaa..you right . I have trouble with those links. .. so I post it through webshot link instead..Thanks.
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Old 09-04-2003, 02:20 AM   #8876
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Quote:
Originally posted by esham
And something that i have to fine tune.. Any suggestion.
1. The steering servo horn is to close -afraid rubbing with top deck.

2. The throttle linkage tight under the handle - rubbing have to adjust the engine th handle to downward.

3. The receiver need to be covered and the wire dressing is a mess!

Picture would tell alot other thing... Check it out

Esham_evo picture
i use the same alloy servo horn there and it doesnt have any problem.

you need to turn the carb slider adaptor so that you dont get into the roll bar.

get the mugen MTX3 receiver cover set. it is perfect fit without any alteration.

nice car
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Old 09-04-2003, 03:01 AM   #8877
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Quote:
Originally posted by Manticore
i use the same alloy servo horn there and it doesnt have any problem.

you need to turn the carb slider adaptor so that you dont get into the roll bar.

get the mugen MTX3 receiver cover set. it is perfect fit without any alteration.

nice car
Yup.. that's it What i need to do. BTW locally afew good driver already bought V1RR Evo to the race. With good hand Evo rules - check this result Race Result
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Old 09-04-2003, 06:15 AM   #8878
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Esham,

Besides the things Manticore said. Have you considered running the steering servo cable in behind the on/off switch (there is room there and it's protected. You may also try and get the throttle/brake servo under the upper deck. You can then attach the throttle link to the top of the servo horn. I would also not even consider racing this car till you atleast get a brace for the left side. The brace is available from Kyosho or five stars. Manticore helped told me about the brace.
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Old 09-04-2003, 07:55 AM   #8879
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Are the front arms still the same when you upgrade to the evo spec?
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Old 09-04-2003, 07:59 AM   #8880
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Quote:
Originally posted by Krupt
Are the front arms still the same when you upgrade to the evo spec?
no, the front arms on evo is longer....
and the front one way is shorter......
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