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Old 08-31-2003, 08:29 AM   #8776
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Default Re: 3x3 set screws

Quote:
Originally posted by StepPins
what are those set screws for any way...are they used for added
rotating mass for a more efficient 2nd gear engagement?
They're really to accomodate wear in the shoes or the spur, though "firmness of the shifting action" would be affected as well.

I guess the long story is that the original R had harder shoes and no central grub screw. When the shoe to spur clearence increased, the shifting became harsher. I reckon the worst aspect of this was a "gear hunting" tendency, typically in some sweeping corners at times.

The new shoes are apparently softer, so we can expect more wear. The grub screws allow for maintaining a minimal shoe to spur clearence and the whole set up should help eliminate the hunting as well as keep the gear change smooth. I wouldn't be surprised to find those new shoes are a bit lighter, too.
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Old 08-31-2003, 08:40 AM   #8777
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Quote:
Originally posted by Manticore
AMG must have put an anti-gravity device on his EVO !
I think AMG has bought some Ti shares.
. . . though Dexter says his is at to 1750g, stock with a AAA pack.

Question:
If we lower the engine by 2.5mm, there are going to be some serious clearence issues between the exhaust and the side belt.
The non-O/D belt of 378 teeth is rather long.
Maybe a 376 or 377 tooth belt from another car would be good - any clues out there?
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Old 08-31-2003, 08:45 AM   #8778
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Quote:
Originally posted by Taylor-Racing
I think AMG has bought some Ti shares.
. . . though Dexter says his is at to 1750g, stock with a AAA pack.

Question:
If we lower the engine by 2.5mm, there are going to be some serious clearence issues between the exhaust and the side belt.
The non-O/D belt of 378 teeth is rather long.
Maybe a 376 or 377 tooth belt from another car would be good - any clues out there?
i think the belt for 27T is 384mm and belt for 25T is 375mm (pretty sure) 376 or 377 is tight and i think it is almost impossible to install with 27T pulley. why you dont try 25T pulley and use 375mm belt?

by the way, i am using mtx3 clutch and engine mount with 25T and 375mm belt and they do rub but not that critical. I might need to file away some material from the header to minimize rubbing. that will help to reduce weight too !
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Old 08-31-2003, 09:19 AM   #8779
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Quote:
Originally posted by Manticore
i think the belt for 27T is 384mm and belt for 25T is 375mm (pretty sure) 376 or 377 is tight and i think it is almost impossible to install with 27T pulley. why you dont try 25T pulley and use 375mm belt?

by the way, i am using mtx3 clutch and engine mount with 25T and 375mm belt and they do rub but not that critical. I might need to file away some material from the header to minimize rubbing. that will help to reduce weight too !

that'll save 0.3272 grams. . . . . where's Data when we need him?

From my parts listings it seems that:
VZ070 DRIVE BELT 378 (V One R)
VZW016 SPECIAL MIDDLE BELT 375 (RR)

. . . so, I tried the 378 belt and it is rather long, as AMG stated some time ago. I thought that an "in between" size would work just nicely.

I don't think I can get the tensioner much closer to the header, so, yeah might have to file it a bit.

. . . but there must be some car that uses a 376 or 377 tooth belt.
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Old 08-31-2003, 09:22 AM   #8780
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Quote:
Originally posted by Taylor-Racing
that'll save 0.3272 grams. . . . . where's Data when we need him?

From my parts listings it seems that:
VZ070 DRIVE BELT 378 (V One R)
VZW016 SPECIAL MIDDLE BELT 375 (RR)

. . . so, I tried the 378 belt and it is rather long, as AMG stated some time ago. I thought that an "in between" size would work just nicely.

I don't think I can get the tensioner much closer to the header, so, yeah might have to file it a bit.

. . . but there must be some car that uses a 376 or 377 tooth belt.
the 378mm belt is supplied with the GT kit where it may fit 25 and 27(a little tight) at the same kit.

you dont need to file the header, the belt may do the job !
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Old 08-31-2003, 09:24 AM   #8781
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job that the belt has done
Attached Images
File Type: jpg dsc00133.jpg (59.2 KB, 132 views)
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Old 08-31-2003, 09:44 AM   #8782
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Quote:
Originally posted by Manticore
job that the belt has done
Yep, that sure is close, isn't it.
I'll might have to try that 378 belt again - drat.
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Old 08-31-2003, 10:56 AM   #8783
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Default Rear end slipping

Hi all,

After upgrade my RR to RR Evo, I found with the default setup, I can run with the same tire as I did with my RR. With RR, usually I run the rear 1 level harder than the front (e.g. F40, R42 or F42, R45).

But with RR Evo with this tire combination, the rear just slip with an 180 degree turn on the car almost every time entering a corner off throttle.

I tried softening the rear spring trying to get more traction, and angling the rear shock more inclined, but doesn't help much.

Until I change with same front and rear tire (F40, R40), it fixes the problem.

Just wanna know whether any of you experience the same problem with RR evo?
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Old 08-31-2003, 11:19 AM   #8784
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Default Re: Rear end slipping

Quote:
Originally posted by albertlam
Hi all,

After upgrade my RR to RR Evo, I found with the default setup, I can run with the same tire as I did with my RR. With RR, usually I run the rear 1 level harder than the front (e.g. F40, R42 or F42, R45).

But with RR Evo with this tire combination, the rear just slip with an 180 degree turn on the car almost every time entering a corner off throttle.

I tried softening the rear spring trying to get more traction, and angling the rear shock more inclined, but doesn't help much.

Until I change with same front and rear tire (F40, R40), it fixes the problem.

Just wanna know whether any of you experience the same problem with RR evo?
the stock setting of EVO rear end has too little droop and may cuz your problem.
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Old 08-31-2003, 02:52 PM   #8785
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I have just been to a race meeting today and was fighting this same problem all day.

I solved it by changing the rear shock piston to one with three holes and use 30w oil! It transformed the car.

I also reduced the droop so that the weight wasnt thrown forward on braking and loaded the front tyres off power.

Let me know how you solve this as it drove me nuts for 5 hrs

Cheers
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Old 08-31-2003, 02:57 PM   #8786
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I have tried 30 mm tyres on the rear of my V1RR and they fowl the suspention. Whatcan i use to space out the wheels so they dont rub?

Cheers
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Old 08-31-2003, 07:44 PM   #8787
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Quote:
Originally posted by Taylor-Racing
We want a sway bar that doesn't touch the shocks if they're mounted in the lower hole on the arms.
We're not using that lower hole, but, hey.

. . . . Oh, alright, sent you a PM.
Yeah that is driving me nuts too!! The only solution I have found is:

1. The CHARGE swaybar.
2. Increase the length of the linkages from the bar to the arm.
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Old 08-31-2003, 09:19 PM   #8788
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Quote:
Originally posted by Manticore
AMG must have put an anti-gravity device on his EVO !
LOL not quite.

Mine is a dead stock EVO kit with the conversion top deck and shimo chassis added.

I use the 2 channel RX which comes with the M8 and 9450 and 9550 servo. Square TI pivotballs, Kyosho 2 speed shaft and K Factory hingpins. AAA receiver pack and thats about all the mods. You can really carve out the weight if you dont use alloy parts!
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Old 08-31-2003, 09:52 PM   #8789
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Default Re: Rear end slipping

Quote:
Originally posted by albertlam
Hi all,

After upgrade my RR to RR Evo, I found with the default setup, I can run with the same tire as I did with my RR. With RR, usually I run the rear 1 level harder than the front (e.g. F40, R42 or F42, R45).

But with RR Evo with this tire combination, the rear just slip with an 180 degree turn on the car almost every time entering a corner off throttle.

I tried softening the rear spring trying to get more traction, and angling the rear shock more inclined, but doesn't help much.

Until I change with same front and rear tire (F40, R40), it fixes the problem.

Just wanna know whether any of you experience the same problem with RR evo?
Basically the EVO has a huge amount of "steering" already designed into it. Doing the old tricks to make the car turn in hard, ie. toe out and softer front springs and tires will make the car spin due to the already large amount of front weight transfer/grip.

You need to use equal or slightly harder front tires and the car feels great!! I started with 37/40 and it was ugly. 40/37 and 37/37 has worked very very well.

Also if the car spins immediately on turn in to a fast (2nd gear) corner you need to increase front bar stiffness. If it spins mid corner right on the apex it is usually too much caster.

Just some experiences with the car so far.
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Old 09-01-2003, 12:21 AM   #8790
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Anybody else's linkages horrendously close to the aerial ie. making contact?

Mine are !
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