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Old 08-19-2003, 08:30 PM   #8626
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just a quick one..
while during idle, does the Trust Bearing spins? Mine spin at a rate of about 1/3 of normal speed...cheers..
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Old 08-19-2003, 08:35 PM   #8627
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Quote:
Originally posted by RClover
just a quick one..
while during idle, does the Trust Bearing spins? Mine spin at a rate of about 1/3 of normal speed...cheers..
under ideal situation, the trust bearing should only spin in a very short of time like 1/10 of a second. it only "rotate" before the clutch has fully engaged and it should not be "working" when the engine is idling.
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Old 08-19-2003, 10:50 PM   #8628
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Quote:
Originally posted by Taylor-Racing
Good on you Ryan.
Does this mean we'll have some competition on Sunday?
Unfortunately I won't be running the Evo on Sunday, I've gotta keep the radio equipment in my 'S' for VORTEC, gotta run the engine in which is hard with 1 litre of fuel left and it has to last two race meetings before I can retire the 'S'.... i'm also knocked out with the flu which is halting the building process . It won't be seeing the track til next month.

By the way, what is the setup you're using? I wanna get it on the setup station once I've finished. I can't do the "kit" setup accurately enough because I don't have vernier calipers.

Thanks.
(Hope my babbling makes some sense but I don't really feel like thinking at the moment... it hurts ....... )
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Old 08-20-2003, 04:04 AM   #8629
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Quote:
Originally posted by V-One S Racer
Unfortunately I won't be running the Evo on Sunday, I've gotta keep the radio equipment in my 'S' for VORTEC, gotta run the engine in which is hard with 1 litre of fuel left and it has to last two race meetings before I can retire the 'S'.... i'm also knocked out with the flu which is halting the building process . It won't be seeing the track til next month.

By the way, what is the setup you're using? I wanna get it on the setup station once I've finished. I can't do the "kit" setup accurately enough because I don't have vernier calipers.

Thanks.
(Hope my babbling makes some sense but I don't really feel like thinking at the moment... it hurts ....... )
Hope your feeling better.
Yes you'll need a vernier caliper, really.
Our initial set-up was directly off the kit sheet with the following exceptions.

Front:

Droop 3mm
Ride Height 5mm
Camber -1.75
No up-stop set

Rear:

Droop 6mm
Ride Height 5.5mm
Camber -2
Toe-in +2
No up-stop set
Shocks in lower hole of A-arm

For Lilydale . . . . dunno yet. I expect we will need to reduce the droop and ride height somewhat and maybe add some camber to the rear.
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Old 08-20-2003, 05:23 AM   #8630
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Quote:
Originally posted by AMGRacer
tl2111 who was the pilot? Did they run against the "big boys"?
The pilot is T-shirt. Not all the big boys turn up and the oldfart(me) having problem in the final.
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Old 08-20-2003, 08:31 AM   #8631
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amgracer, is it a must to use the kyosho ventilated brakes for the kyosho red pads?
u see, i am very keen to know what kind of brakes setup can make a 1 way car come to a halt without it swerving even with full brakes applied.
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Old 08-20-2003, 08:35 AM   #8632
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Quote:
Originally posted by hurhur
amgracer, is it a must to use the kyosho ventilated brakes for the kyosho red pads?
u see, i am very keen to know what kind of brakes setup can make a 1 way car come to a halt without it swerving even with full brakes applied.
simple, use rear solid axle !
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Old 08-20-2003, 08:37 AM   #8633
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Quote:
Originally posted by Manticore
simple, use rear solid axle !
solid axle is a no no for a small technical track here.
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Old 08-20-2003, 08:38 AM   #8634
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Quote:
Originally posted by hurhur
solid axle is a no no for a small technical track here.
we ran at a tight track with solid rear axle without problem !! it is just a matter of driving style !
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Old 08-20-2003, 08:46 AM   #8635
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Quote:
Originally posted by Manticore
we ran at a tight track with solid rear axle without problem !! it is just a matter of driving style !
i think you are right. its a matter of personal preference.
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Old 08-20-2003, 06:33 PM   #8636
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Quote:
Originally posted by hurhur
amgracer, is it a must to use the kyosho ventilated brakes for the kyosho red pads?
u see, i am very keen to know what kind of brakes setup can make a 1 way car come to a halt without it swerving even with full brakes applied.
Not a MUST but you will find the standard disc is "grabby" because it is not polished. Easy solution is to polish the standard disc.
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Old 08-20-2003, 06:46 PM   #8637
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OK I got some time in with my EVO before work today. I bought along my full set of tires this time as well

Remember this kit is dead stock with the following changes:

5th body post added
40 shore front and 37 shore rear
Stratus 2.1 body

Well this thing was straight up dialled. All the mods and fighting I had done with my V1RR to get it to go on this track well was already done for me on this car!! It did not snap out on the sweepers like my RR and it had plenty of off power steering with the 40/37 combo and stock springs. It carried immense corner speed I had to really stiffen up the RR to get it to carry the same amount of corner speed.

I have run a MTX3 at this same track and I really could not feel a huge difference between the cars. Possibly I could say the Mugen had better turn in, but I think this mugen had been played with a little and was running a 300M body.

Man I was totally impressed with the EVO. It is very easy to drive, far more than the V1RR. I could kind of get into a "groove" and just make it do what I wanted. The only ugly bit of handling was a slight on power push, BUT there is a reason for this read on!!

Tire wear was very even and I was using 59mm front and 63mm rears almost exactly what the kit specifies. The new .8 module gears give the car a different feel, difficult to spell it out but smoother is probably the word. The 3D clutch is hands down a better clutch than the Mugen now!! Mayby it is because my MTX3 clutch is a bit old or something, but the 3D clutch is smooth but also very grabby. The range of adjustment is more than the Mugen clutch as well.

As I said above I built the kit totally as per Kyosho specs but I forgot about the stupid 2.6mm screws in the rear diff!! I did not replace them with 3mm ones and consequently I had a nice pool of diff oil on the ground this morning. Thus my 5000 wt rear diff was pretty much empty and this is where I think the on power push was coming from. I will rebuild the diff properly and refill it with the 5000 wt for testing. I also want to try the TCD back there.

Well as I have said before it may not "look" much different to a RR but is certainly feels much better on the track. It was so dialled from stock I could not get a stupid grin off my face!!
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Old 08-20-2003, 08:45 PM   #8638
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Quote:
Originally posted by AMGRacer
OK I got some time in with my EVO before work today. I bought along my full set of tires this time as well

Remember this kit is dead stock with the following changes:

5th body post added
40 shore front and 37 shore rear
Stratus 2.1 body

Well this thing was straight up dialled. All the mods and fighting I had done with my V1RR to get it to go on this track well was already done for me on this car!! It did not snap out on the sweepers like my RR and it had plenty of off power steering with the 40/37 combo and stock springs. It carried immense corner speed I had to really stiffen up the RR to get it to carry the same amount of corner speed.

I have run a MTX3 at this same track and I really could not feel a huge difference between the cars. Possibly I could say the Mugen had better turn in, but I think this mugen had been played with a little and was running a 300M body.

Man I was totally impressed with the EVO. It is very easy to drive, far more than the V1RR. I could kind of get into a "groove" and just make it do what I wanted. The only ugly bit of handling was a slight on power push, BUT there is a reason for this read on!!

Tire wear was very even and I was using 59mm front and 63mm rears almost exactly what the kit specifies. The new .8 module gears give the car a different feel, difficult to spell it out but smoother is probably the word. The 3D clutch is hands down a better clutch than the Mugen now!! Mayby it is because my MTX3 clutch is a bit old or something, but the 3D clutch is smooth but also very grabby. The range of adjustment is more than the Mugen clutch as well.

As I said above I built the kit totally as per Kyosho specs but I forgot about the stupid 2.6mm screws in the rear diff!! I did not replace them with 3mm ones and consequently I had a nice pool of diff oil on the ground this morning. Thus my 5000 wt rear diff was pretty much empty and this is where I think the on power push was coming from. I will rebuild the diff properly and refill it with the 5000 wt for testing. I also want to try the TCD back there.

Well as I have said before it may not "look" much different to a RR but is certainly feels much better on the track. It was so dialled from stock I could not get a stupid grin off my face!!
Seems like a lot of good comments come with tis car....shuld start to build mine....
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Old 08-20-2003, 09:53 PM   #8639
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Thanks AMGRacer for the full report. I'll try mine this weekend if the weather permits.

BTW, are you using 25T or 27T?
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Old 08-20-2003, 09:58 PM   #8640
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Quote:
Originally posted by Diva
Thanks AMGRacer for the full report. I'll try mine this weekend if the weather permits.

BTW, are you using 25T or 27T?
25T, I like it so I can run small fronts yet not loose too much top end.
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