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Old 08-19-2003, 03:38 AM   #8611
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Quote:
Originally posted by Manticore
it is kind of personal preference. do it if you think you need it and skip it if you have no problem without the shims.
You shim yours manti?
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Old 08-19-2003, 03:43 AM   #8612
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Originally posted by AMGRacer
You shim yours manti?
i didnt !!
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Old 08-19-2003, 03:45 AM   #8613
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I will have a tinker with this setting later this week and see what I come up with. I just was not aware anybody even did this
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Old 08-19-2003, 03:45 AM   #8614
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Quote:
Originally posted by AMGRacer
This is unnecessary in my opinion. I have never done this, and the instuctions from both Mugen and Kyosho do not require this. I have never had an engine flame out from this either that I am aware of.

Seems odd, anybody had experiences where they require this shimming?
If indeed it is true that some people needs 1.5 to 2 mm shims, then I would think that the end play of the clutchbell after the clugtch installation would be excessive. In that case, the thrust bearings would take a lot of beating.
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Old 08-19-2003, 03:51 AM   #8615
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Originally posted by Taylor-Racing
Just thought I'd note a few final build experiences of the Evo.

AMG noted some hard plastics and his lack of muscle tone. While I ragged him on this, there are indeed some hard plastics there. I confess I used grease on some of those screws, myself. I also noticed that some of the countersink holes in the Shimo chassis were contacting the heads of the screws and this made it appear harder to get the screws in.

The front bulkheads slightly splayed outwards at the top, indicating to me that they were not square on their bottom mounting face.
The plastic roll bar "legs" were too narrow at the mounting faces - they needed to be pulled apart to mount on the top plate - no biggie.
The clutch inner bearing needed a lot of shimming to get the bell clear of the shoe - about 1.5mm.

The rear upper arm 6.8mm pivot balls have me puzzled. When installed as per the instructions, the flange of the ball sticks out to far and would cause the upper links to bind. I just installed the balls backwards to get past the issue, but would like to know if I've missed something, here.

When assembling the rear arms, I used the lower shock mounting positions as per the instructions with the intent of starting out with the kit set-up. This turned out to make it impossible to get the ride height down to something reasonable and I subsequently moved them - that fixed it.
As mentioned previously, the front doggies appear too long.
I even used the Kyosho #500 shock oil 'cos it "looked" like about 60 weight - anybody know the actual equivelent?
I measured the engine mount height. They look to be exactly the same height as the V-One R. I might just mill them down.
I noticed the same thing about the bulkheads. Mine were splayed out until I attached the bulkhead/shock brace.

I also have had trouble with the 6.8mm balls. They seem to bind when new if the angle of the ball link is not 90 degrees. If the link gets on an angle it will bind a bit. This went away after a few months on my car. I just ensured that the link was vertical.

When using the lower arm mounts I can get my ride height down to 4mm or a bit under. Did you make the rear shocks too long mayby??

So the original V1R mounts and the EVO mounts are the same height still????? Man that bites!!!
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Old 08-19-2003, 03:54 AM   #8616
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Quote:
Originally posted by AMGRacer
I noticed the same thing about the bulkheads. Mine were splayed out until I attached the bulkhead/shock brace.

I also have had trouble with the 6.8mm balls. They seem to bind when new if the angle of the ball link is not 90 degrees. If the link gets on an angle it will bind a bit. This went away after a few months on my car. I just ensured that the link was vertical.

When using the lower arm mounts I can get my ride height down to 4mm or a bit under. Did you make the rear shocks too long mayby??

So the original V1R mounts and the EVO mounts are the same height still????? Man that bites!!!
when the instruction tells you to use the lower arm mount, it changes the suspension geometary. i.e. shock a bit more stand up.
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Old 08-19-2003, 04:54 AM   #8617
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
If indeed it is true that some people needs 1.5 to 2 mm shims, then I would think that the end play of the clutchbell after the clugtch installation would be excessive. In that case, the thrust bearings would take a lot of beating.
Well, ya' know, I hadn't even thought about this until you guys mentioned it.
This is just me . . . I shim it only because I get control over that measurement. When the clutch shoe wears, I take out a shim.
This method ensures there is no chance of the bell touching the shoe. The only way this can happen is when the shoe moves outwards as per the design.
Having said all that, I would have to agree that it's not actually necessary.
I expect an "un-shimmed" situation would work much like the disk brakes on a car. There is no retract mechanism for the brake pads, they just get knocked back to a minimal clearence.

Not sure what you are getting at with respect to the thrust clearence since this is set at the other end of the clutch mechanism.
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Old 08-19-2003, 05:01 AM   #8618
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I got my Evo today !

Now it's time to start building it .
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Old 08-19-2003, 05:27 AM   #8619
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Quote:
Originally posted by Taylor-Racing
I expect an "un-shimmed" situation would work much like the disk brakes on a car. There is no retract mechanism for the brake pads, they just get knocked back to a minimal clearence.
Yep this is exactly what I noticed. Car seems to roll on pretty well with engine going and does not seem to bind.
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Old 08-19-2003, 05:43 AM   #8620
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Quote:
Originally posted by AMGRacer
I noticed the same thing about the bulkheads. Mine were splayed out until I attached the bulkhead/shock brace.

I also have had trouble with the 6.8mm balls. They seem to bind when new if the angle of the ball link is not 90 degrees. If the link gets on an angle it will bind a bit. This went away after a few months on my car. I just ensured that the link was vertical.
I think that you have used the wrong 6.8 ball end. There are two kind of ball end that comes with the kit. Try the one come with the rear body mount parts tree. It moves smoothly no matter what angle.
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Old 08-19-2003, 05:44 AM   #8621
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Quote:
Originally posted by AMGRacer
<SNIP>
I also have had trouble with the 6.8mm balls. They seem to bind when new if the angle of the ball link is not 90 degrees. If the link gets on an angle it will bind a bit. This went away after a few months on my car. I just ensured that the link was vertical.
I probably didn't explain clearly. The instructions show the 6.8mm balls installed in the upper links with the flange toward the front of the link. When the top link is bolted onto the bulkhead, the upright sits flush with the front side of the upper link - there is no clearence for the flanged portion of the 6.8mm ball that protrudes about 3mm in front of the top link. I surmised that the design expected us to use the older unflanged balls as on the original V-One R. I merely inserted the balls with the flange protruding out the rear of the top link. I would expect there to be much binding if installed as per the instructions.

Quote:
Originally posted by AMGRacer
When using the lower arm mounts I can get my ride height down to 4mm or a bit under. Did you make the rear shocks too long mayby??
Sorry, I didn't explain that one correctly, either. In section 13 of the manual, the exploded view of the lower arm seems to show the lower shock ball mounted in the lower hole. I went by the assembled view which appears to show the lower shock ball inserted into the upper hole, hence, I had initial difficulty getting the ride height down. The shock lengths are correct.

Quote:
Originally posted by AMGRacer
So the original V1R mounts and the EVO mounts are the same height still????? Man that bites!!!
Yep. I have a mate with a CNC mill.

And another note . . .
That throttle linkage is a bit of a PIA. I'm thinking of turning the servo around and cranking the carb a little to get everything away from the tank and the roll bar.
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Old 08-19-2003, 05:55 AM   #8622
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Quote:
Originally posted by Getrice
I think that you have used the wrong 6.8 ball end. There are two kind of ball end that comes with the kit. Try the one come with the rear body mount parts tree. It moves smoothly no matter what angle.
The ball end is not in contention here. The issue is that the inner end of the top link will only pivot in a single plane. With that in mind, I'm saying there is no space between the outer end of the top link and the upright for the flanged portion of the ball.
Have I got the assembly wrong?
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Old 08-19-2003, 05:57 AM   #8623
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Quote:
Originally posted by V-One S Racer
I got my Evo today !

Now it's time to start building it .
Good on you Ryan.
Does this mean we'll have some competition on Sunday?
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Old 08-19-2003, 06:08 AM   #8624
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Quote:
Originally posted by Taylor-Racing
I probably didn't explain clearly. The instructions show the 6.8mm balls installed in the upper links with the flange toward the front of the link. When the top link is bolted onto the bulkhead, the upright sits flush with the front side of the upper link - there is no clearence for the flanged portion of the 6.8mm ball that protrudes about 3mm in front of the top link. I surmised that the design expected us to use the older unflanged balls as on the original V-One R. I merely inserted the balls with the flange protruding out the rear of the top link. I would expect there to be much binding if installed as per the instructions.
Oh I see. Mine does not do that, it sits in the right position when compared to the arm. I will look more closely tomorrow night.


Quote:
Originally posted by Taylor-Racing
Sorry, I didn't explain that one correctly, either. In section 13 of the manual, the exploded view of the lower arm seems to show the lower shock ball mounted in the lower hole. I went by the assembled view which appears to show the lower shock ball inserted into the upper hole, hence, I had initial difficulty getting the ride height down. The shock lengths are correct.
Yep if you did that then it sure wont fit!

Quote:
Originally posted by Taylor-Racing
Yep. I have a mate with a CNC mill.

And another note . . .
That throttle linkage is a bit of a PIA. I'm thinking of turning the servo around and cranking the carb a little to get everything away from the tank and the roll bar.
Yep agree, there is very little clearance.
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Old 08-19-2003, 07:05 PM   #8625
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use mugen balls and caps. i think the ball cap can last at least 5 years !

I think fish will agree on this !
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