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Old 05-20-2003, 03:08 AM   #7261
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Thanks AMGracer, I'll try that out and I also get the softer shoe while I'm at it. After driving the car to some success on Sunday at Brendale, I did think it could use a little more punch. Thanks once again.


Graeme
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Old 05-20-2003, 03:31 AM   #7262
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Quote:
Originally posted by finchy
Thanks AMGracer, I'll try that out and I also get the softer shoe while I'm at it. After driving the car to some success on Sunday at Brendale, I did think it could use a little more punch. Thanks once again.


Graeme
Many people fail to optimise the centax to its fullest. At Brendale you can clamp down on that sucker big time. Get the heavy spring and wind it down around 1mm. Then keep cranking it down until the car has more punch than you can control and back it off a little. You will be amazed how far you can crank on it at Brendale.

The biggest advantage of this is that you no longer need to control the engines punch with the low end needle. You can set the low end a little fat and it will still punch big time. A rich low end (not too rich) is an advantage at a large track like Brendale as you get a bit more off throttle liquid cooling.
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Old 05-20-2003, 03:45 AM   #7263
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I know some of the top mugen drivers at Brendale use a heavy spring and crank right down on it and the puch they are getting is extreme especailly out of the corners. Thanks for the info AMGracer.

At last after a couple pages of garbage the threads getting back on track.

Go Go Kyosho



Graeme
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Old 05-20-2003, 04:34 AM   #7264
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sp Racer

<SNIP>

I'd like to know how many people (and lets be honest here) think that they've managed to get their cars tuned and perfoming to their (the car's) full potential...WITHOUT the Mugen uprights etc etc, not that there's anything wrong with experimenting with parts from other cars!

At a recent club meeting (and Taylor Racing will verify this) I had a VoneS with the kit engine (yes, the GS15R) with the suspension off my VoneRR running around at the same pace (within .2sec a lap) as the MTX3's which were driven by Victoria's finest...and these MTX3's were mostly JP, Rody and Pixi powered.

<SNIP>

Luis
Agreed.
Actually, last Sunday was a funny day, I thought - I wouldn't take away from your performance (it was inspiring), but everyone seemed quite close for some reason. Maybe it's less intimidating without the boards.
. . . Oh, and I want to inspect your engine, Luis - it's a bit indecent.

I'm convinced that to go faster, you must experiment. We always go to the track with something new to try out. A very good example of this was our recent experiment with a solid rear axle. The up-shot of that was that we decided not to perservere with it due to tyre wear issues, but my driver learned a lot about throttle control - he had to. We put the diff back in and he posted a PB at the next Lilydale meet.

And as I say . . . The biggest difference between these cars is at the transmitter end.
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Old 05-20-2003, 04:55 AM   #7265
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Default V1-RR

Guys,

The V1-RR is an excellent car out of the box, its easy to setup and is very reliable.

From my experience the car has been more than competitive at club level in lower traction however i have struggled a bit in really high traction. The Cg is very high on the car compared to the latest offerings from Mugen/Associated and Serpent.

From what i can see of the new EVO it will address some of these problems and its good to see sensible development of a good base car is continuing.

Some changes that can be made to help bridge the gap now are;

1. Use the Trinity tank to lower the Cg, this will require slight re positioning of the reciever.

2. Lower the engine mounts 2mm and machine the flywheel down to suit.

3. Take a leaf out of the K Factory catalog and use a light weight reciever pac and mount it down on the chassis.

4. Relocate the mounting position of the rear sway bar to stiffen the rear end.

The only other aftermarket parts i have used are;

1. Titanium front and rear shafts

2. Shimo Chassis

3. 3 Racing front roll bar mount and upper rear arm

4. Team Kyosho rear brace with bearing for brake cam.

5. Delrin front upper arms with bearings

As for the 3D clutch always use the hard clutch spring with 2.2 mm on the clutch nut, .4 gap and the red shoe.

Regards

Kyle
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Old 05-20-2003, 05:05 AM   #7266
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Default V1-RR

Guys,

The V1-RR is an excellent car out of the box, its easy to setup and is very reliable.

From my experience the car has been more than competitive at club level in lower traction however i have struggled a bit in really high traction. The Cg is very high on the car compared to the latest offerings from Mugen/Associated and Serpent.

From what i can see of the new EVO it will address some of these problems and its good to see sensible development of a good base car is continuing.

Some changes that can be made to help bridge the gap now are;

1. Use the Trinity tank to lower the Cg, this will require slight re positioning of the reciever.

2. Lower the engine mounts 2mm and machine the flywheel down to suit.

3. Take a leaf out of the K Factory catalog and use a light weight reciever pac and mount it down on the chassis.

4. Relocate the mounting position of the rear sway bar to stiffen the rear end.

The only other aftermarket parts i have used are;

1. Titanium front and rear shafts

2. Shimo Chassis

3. 3 Racing front roll bar mount and upper rear arm

4. Team Kyosho rear brace with bearing for brake cam.

5. Delrin front upper arms with bearings

As for the 3D clutch always use the hard clutch spring with 2.2 mm on the clutch nut, .4 gap and the red shoe.

Regards

Kyle
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Old 05-20-2003, 05:32 AM   #7267
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Kyle could you post a pic of the sway bar mod you've done on the RR. This would good to have a look at.

Cheers

Graeme

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Old 05-20-2003, 06:12 AM   #7268
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Graeme,

Its a mod i learned from Ric. Relocate the pivot ball to the inside of the arm, its a bit of a fiddly job but it effectively shortens the length of the sway bar which makes it stiffer.

I will try to get a pic for you.

I have found that this makes the car a lot more direct and when used with 30,000 diff oil it really helps to reduce the understeer on the exit of the corner.

Regards

Kyle
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Old 05-20-2003, 09:07 AM   #7269
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Guys, I hope I'm don't bore u with these questions...it seems to me the V1-RR n V1-S can't share the same settings....am I correct to say that.....
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Old 05-20-2003, 11:44 AM   #7270
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Default Hey guys

Finally decided to register. Great place you have here.

Anywho, I was looking for a lightweight 2-speed and mid shaft. The only one I have found thus far would be the K Factory one, but I would prefer a titanium one. I would preferibly like to be able to get it here in the US, but I could order from oversea's(As long as it doesn't cost me a arm & leg). Thanks guys


BTW: I've alreday read trough the first 40+ pages, and have already gained a bunch of info
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Old 05-20-2003, 02:02 PM   #7271
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Quote:
Originally posted by Kyle Hazell
Graeme,

Its a mod i learned from Ric. Relocate the pivot ball to the inside of the arm, its a bit of a fiddly job but it effectively shortens the length of the sway bar which makes it stiffer.

I will try to get a pic for you.

I have found that this makes the car a lot more direct and when used with 30,000 diff oil it really helps to reduce the understeer on the exit of the corner.

Regards

Kyle
I have done the same sway bar mod as you Kyle it work well on our track. Have you seen the blade sway for the rear end of the V one RR it look good Simon Camilleri was using it at NSW state tiltes and they all said it went well.

Damo
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Old 05-20-2003, 02:12 PM   #7272
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Default 23T 2nd Gear Pinion

Does anyone know where I can get this fabled pinion?
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Old 05-20-2003, 03:00 PM   #7273
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Quote:
Guys, I hope I'm don't bore u with these questions...it seems to me the V1-RR n V1-S can't share the same settings....am I correct to say that.....

They can share the same settings, I use the same on both my cars (VoneRR-GT and VoneS)

But I am using a front difff instead of a one way so that might be the difference...
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Old 05-20-2003, 07:55 PM   #7274
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sp Racer
They can share the same settings, I use the same on both my cars (VoneRR-GT and VoneS)

But I am using a front difff instead of a one way so that might be the difference...
hmmm...tat's funny...
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Old 05-20-2003, 08:12 PM   #7275
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Hey guys, I am experiencing something new for me. I have my chassis dialed in fairly well, not too much under steer or over steer until I get the dam body on the thing. Then it all goes off to understeer entering corners. Not just a little. Is it possible I have too much rear wing on the body? It is the Stratus from Protoform. I've never had this occur before.
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