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Old 11-15-2001, 10:31 PM   #571
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Is this with rubber tires?
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Old 11-15-2001, 11:22 PM   #572
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Quote:
Originally posted by adelmundo


So are you running the regular gear diffs in the rear? If so What weight oil are you using for the rear? Or are you running a Solid Rear Axle in the rear? Also Have you tried running the Kyosho LSD in both the front and rear Diffs?
Yeah...I'm running regular diffs at the rear at 5000... At first I was rather sceptical that this combination would work when I was first told. I saw a couple of guys driving it and tested it myself... I'm telling ya again that it takes corner really similiar to a one way, sharp and very responsive... On top of that, you have a regular breaking like that of a normal diff! The best of both worlds I would say!
I've not tried running it front and rear... for the time being, I'll stick to this...
Yes, the guys around here only drive on rubber... Only the serpent guys have converted to foams...
Rather interesting...it's a must try!
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Old 11-16-2001, 06:50 AM   #573
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any idea when the V1RR is going to be released?


Thanks.
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Old 11-16-2001, 08:42 PM   #574
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Quote:
Originally posted by Dragon
any idea when the V1RR is going to be released?


Thanks.
anytime !
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Old 11-17-2001, 03:21 AM   #575
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Quick mini review of Kyosho item VZW010 - Alum Drive Washer Set

Just picked these up, they are alum pieces which replace the standard plastic hex hub. They have 2 sets of holes drilled through them one for standard outdrives, the other for the universal outdrives. There is a small cross pin which is held in place with a rubber o ring.

Likes:

Dont come off with your wheels!
Nice looking blue colour
Prevents bearing side loading

Dislikes:

They have some play in them which needs to be removed with shims (the screw locking types allow a bit more adjustment)
They lack the "circle" behind them which keeps some junk away from your bearing.

Overall: Quite good value, cheaper than the HPI and Mugen ones. Kawahara ones are the best if you can get them!
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Old 11-17-2001, 03:26 AM   #576
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mauler

Yeah...I'm running regular diffs at the rear at 5000... At first I was rather sceptical that this combination would work when I was first told. I saw a couple of guys driving it and tested it myself... I'm telling ya again that it takes corner really similiar to a one way, sharp and very responsive... On top of that, you have a regular breaking like that of a normal diff! The best of both worlds I would say!
I've not tried running it front and rear... for the time being, I'll stick to this...
Yes, the guys around here only drive on rubber... Only the serpent guys have converted to foams...
Rather interesting...it's a must try!
I am not sure how it would feel like a one way as there would still be differential action?? Mayby it just feels like an very loose gear diff?
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Old 11-17-2001, 04:36 AM   #577
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Quote:
Originally posted by Manticore


anytime !
In australia...... no idea, maybe 2003
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Old 11-17-2001, 05:01 AM   #578
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Does anyoe know where I can get a hold of some gears to overdrive the front wheels? The only one I can find is the Kawahara 24T one. This is about a 9% overdrive.......
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Old 11-17-2001, 05:24 AM   #579
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Quote:
Originally posted by AMGRacer
Quick mini review of Kyosho item VZW010 - Alum Drive Washer Set

Just picked these up, they are alum pieces which replace the standard plastic hex hub. They have 2 sets of holes drilled through them one for standard outdrives, the other for the universal outdrives. There is a small cross pin which is held in place with a rubber o ring.

Likes:

Dont come off with your wheels!
Nice looking blue colour
Prevents bearing side loading

Dislikes:

They have some play in them which needs to be removed with shims (the screw locking types allow a bit more adjustment)
They lack the "circle" behind them which keeps some junk away from your bearing.

Overall: Quite good value, cheaper than the HPI and Mugen ones. Kawahara ones are the best if you can get them!
i am using the kawahara ones !
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Old 11-17-2001, 06:43 AM   #580
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Quote:
Originally posted by Manticore


i am using the kawahara ones !
i am not surprised
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Old 11-17-2001, 10:11 AM   #581
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I am also using the kawahara ones. So which shock tower is better kawahara or the square one?
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Old 11-17-2001, 05:18 PM   #582
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So Manticore how about helping out some fellow Kyosho owners in a poor country (Australia) If you can pass on the message to Control Centre that I want a Kawahara 24T pulley that would be great Can you give em my email [email protected].......
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Old 11-17-2001, 06:57 PM   #583
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Quote:
Originally posted by AMGRacer
So Manticore how about helping out some fellow Kyosho owners in a poor country (Australia) If you can pass on the message to Control Centre that I want a Kawahara 24T pulley that would be great Can you give em my email [email protected].......
I will try !
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Old 11-17-2001, 09:42 PM   #584
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The track temps have jumped a fair bit recently and I am finding that my foams are getting worn out much faster. Is this normal?? On the upside I can run rubbers again now and get good traction.

I am running a JP black C12 engine. If I power down out of the corner it will spin if I give it too much throttle (pretty normal). However somebody else at the track can get on the power much earlier and he will not break loose. He is running fairly similar specs to me but with less camber and less toe! However he says that stiffening the rear has made his car hold on better. This seems to be the reverse of what I understand. When he gets on power the car "skips" sideways but does not actually get loose. He is also running a Lola body I am not sure if this helps, I am running a protoform. Any ideas?? I am thinking that the stiffer rear is not overloading the outer tire as much?
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Old 11-17-2001, 11:21 PM   #585
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Quote:
Originally posted by AMGRacer
The track temps have jumped a fair bit recently and I am finding that my foams are getting worn out much faster. Is this normal?? On the upside I can run rubbers again now and get good traction.

I am running a JP black C12 engine. If I power down out of the corner it will spin if I give it too much throttle (pretty normal). However somebody else at the track can get on the power much earlier and he will not break loose. He is running fairly similar specs to me but with less camber and less toe! However he says that stiffening the rear has made his car hold on better. This seems to be the reverse of what I understand. When he gets on power the car "skips" sideways but does not actually get loose. He is also running a Lola body I am not sure if this helps, I am running a protoform. Any ideas?? I am thinking that the stiffer rear is not overloading the outer tire as much?
stiffer means that in comparison. if you are breaking lose (soft) at your rear end you will probably hitting your rear end at corner and spin. stiffen up the rear will prevent the rear from hitting the ground.
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