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Old 12-08-2002, 09:24 PM   #5491
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Rear Universal Shaft...

Quote:
Originally posted by RClover
Hi,
I want to make an order for a pair of Integy Rear Univarsal Shaft.
But i dont know which one to order for my V-1-R. BTW, i running 30mm foam tyres in the rear.
There are:
1) SH8-514 (wide option)
2) SH8-513
3) T3765 (2mm offset)

And what is the difference between part (1) and part (3) mentioned in the above? Pls advice as to which one to buy.

How about the difference between:
-wheel adapter 1mm Offset for T3763
-wheel adapter 0mm Offset for T3764

Which one to get?

Thanks.
Part one and two, I believe are made by Eagle Racing and are beefy. Supposed to be really good quaility. #3 is I believe made by 3 Racing, which I am currently using in the rear to accomodate 30mm tires. I believe # 1 is similar to #2, but with a longer shaft to prevent it from popping out on impact. I believe they are both 0mm offset.

As for the wheel adapters. The 1mm adapter could be used in the rear with standard 0mm offset CVD's to accomodate 30mm tires, while the 0mm offset are stock replacements.

I've tried the 1mm offset wheel adapterswith stock dogbones and the tires still rubbed the hub carriers slightly, so I went with the 2mm offset cvds with standard 0mm hubs and it works great.
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Old 12-08-2002, 09:29 PM   #5492
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Quote:
Originally posted by nova racer
has anyone tried this
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAVW8
i was thinking that when used in the front along with a ned diff in the rear it would turn in well and pull from the apex out like a 1way solid rear set up but with breaks lol
I got one when they first came out, and I can't say I noticed much difference in performance (I ran it in the rear). I just picked up a negative diff, and was thinking about trying the same thing (LSD in the front / Neg in the Rear).

I did hear that you have to regularly clean out the Kyosho LSD, as the gears are brittle. That's one of the main reasons I took it out.
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Old 12-08-2002, 09:35 PM   #5493
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i think that the main stress is in the rear diff. because of the weight transfer to the rear try it i think that it will work great. with my diff set up i run 7,000 front and rear. the +side is that it turns in great but at tends to push from the apex out when you get on the gas hard i think that this will fix that
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Old 12-09-2002, 06:56 AM   #5494
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Quote:
Originally posted by nova racer
..................it would turn in well and pull from the apex out like a 1way solid rear set up but with breaks lol
Thats what a rear solid shaft setup will do.....you control how you run the bend with your throttle finger!!

Last edited by dtm; 12-09-2002 at 09:08 AM.
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Old 12-09-2002, 08:20 AM   #5495
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Hey Modellor! Where are you? I replied to your e-mail about helping you with some parts. You still interested?
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Old 12-12-2002, 08:38 AM   #5496
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Old 12-13-2002, 09:33 AM   #5497
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the pipe I was telling you guys about a while back that makes my collari 5 port insanely fast is on ebay right now!!!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...ADME:X:ON:US:2
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Old 12-17-2002, 08:07 AM   #5498
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Quote:
Originally posted by VONEREFLEXR
Question?

As my car accelerates, it pulls to the left. Could this be caused by the front oneway?
that happened to my v1r twice, 1st - one dogbone was pulling out everytime i accelerate and the 2nd was when i changed from the original plastic diff casing to an aluminum diff casing. right after i changed it back to the original it ran as straight. also try to check on your belts.
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Old 12-17-2002, 09:02 AM   #5499
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Check the rear toe settings. Make sure they are the same for the left and right.
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Old 12-17-2002, 12:26 PM   #5500
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Quote:
Originally posted by shogun
that happened to my v1r twice, 1st - one dogbone was pulling out everytime i accelerate and the 2nd was when i changed from the original plastic diff casing to an aluminum diff casing. right after i changed it back to the original it ran as straight. also try to check on your belts.
I actually switched to the solid axle and am having no problems at all. Thanks though
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Old 12-17-2002, 12:28 PM   #5501
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Turns out I was using the adjustable diff from kyosho and one of the nylon collars was binding on one side of the diff.
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Old 12-21-2002, 03:37 AM   #5502
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Hey guys,
Normally im found in the V-One S thread, but didnt know if you gusy knew, But Kyosho has just re-released the V-One RR, it now comes with the Sirio Engine, im getting really annoyed at Kyosho myself for continualy adjusting slightly a model and re-releasing.
They've now got 4 different V-One R, and 3 V-One S
Really big annoyance.

any way thought i'd let you know
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Old 12-21-2002, 03:48 PM   #5503
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Quote:
Originally posted by V-One S
Hey guys,
Normally im found in the V-One S thread, but didnt know if you gusy knew, But Kyosho has just re-released the V-One RR, it now comes with the Sirio Engine, im getting really annoyed at Kyosho myself for continualy adjusting slightly a model and re-releasing.
They've now got 4 different V-One R, and 3 V-One S
Really big annoyance.

any way thought i'd let you know
I did not know that Kyosho released the RR with a engine
This is new for me to hear on this certan kit, I myself like the idea of getting the power plant of my choice.
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Old 12-21-2002, 06:17 PM   #5504
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Well I have to finally admit it, the new Mugen is one fast piece of kit. In fact it has broken track records at all my regular tracks by over 1 second.

Unfortunately I have to sell up and jump onto the latest bandwagon (which I hate doing ) so my V1RR is up for sale. Anybody interested drop me a line at: [email protected]

I am selling minus any radio gear but with an 1100mah receiver pack. Car also has the option of an OS TR if you are interested. I have many hopups from kawahara and other companies plus a heap of spares including belts several bags of pulleys, arms etc. I also have all the springs, swaybar and gearing options for the car and a front diff and front oneway. Includes solid rear diff, kawahara rear diff and standard rear diff. Comes with a Mugen centax with low engine mounts and small diameter flywheel instead of Kyosho, spare chassis plates and top plates, alloy hexes and graphite top deck. Car is used but in perfect working order. I am looking for US$350 without radio and engine or US$450 with an almost brand new OS TR.

Last edited by AMGRacer; 12-21-2002 at 08:48 PM.
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Old 12-21-2002, 08:40 PM   #5505
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AMG... keep your centax and kawahara engine mounts... they will work on the mtx3... the engine mounts are a little higher (less than a mm) and releave a little of the belt rubbing on the manifold. The clutch bell is the same.
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