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Old 10-08-2002, 10:58 PM   #4606
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Quote:
Originally posted by kevink2
Ahh thank you Manticore for enlightening us... that's what I was wondering. It's pretty nice, except the motor mount screws still hang down too much.
I use kawahara motor mount screws. they are very thin and easy to tighten up the motor mount to the chassis with little force. I will post some pics of the screws later.
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Old 10-08-2002, 11:08 PM   #4607
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Quote:
Originally posted by Manticore
I use kawahara motor mount screws. they are very thin and easy to tighten up the motor mount to the chassis with little force. I will post some pics of the screws later.
They are also 2mm hex and easy to strip!!
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Old 10-08-2002, 11:19 PM   #4608
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yep that's def. a different chassis than the integy one i have. It looks more like the kawa than the one I got. maybe integy makes one in-house in addition to selling the 3 racing.
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Old 10-08-2002, 11:20 PM   #4609
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Quote:
Originally posted by autotr8er
Good for you Manticore! But, how big is your track? Is it asphalt? Are you running foams? Do you even read the posts? I'm talking about medium to small tracks. Mainly concrete.
Argh!!....guys you had all this FUN and you left me out!
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Old 10-08-2002, 11:22 PM   #4610
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Quote:
Originally posted by kevink2
Ahh thank you Manticore for enlightening us... that's what I was wondering. It's pretty nice, except the motor mount screws still hang down too much.
A few other problems with it as well. It's not 7075....(thats not such a big deal) and it makes the centre belt really "tight"!!!...a few tanks using the SP belts will sort this out.
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Old 10-08-2002, 11:25 PM   #4611
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Quote:
Originally posted by patelladragger
..........maybe integy makes one in-house in addition to selling the 3 racing.
Usually happens the other way round...
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Old 10-08-2002, 11:50 PM   #4612
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Quote:
Originally posted by dtm
Usually happens the other way round...
You got that right!
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Old 10-09-2002, 12:51 AM   #4613
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Quote:
Originally posted by dtm
They are also 2mm hex and easy to strip!!
I did strip an allen wrench because I have tightened the screw too much ! you only need to apply little force on it to make the job done.

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Old 10-09-2002, 12:51 AM   #4614
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Quote:
Originally posted by dtm
A few other problems with it as well. It's not 7075....(thats not such a big deal) and it makes the centre belt really "tight"!!!...a few tanks using the SP belts will sort this out.
This is the biggest problem with the 3 racing chassis. other then that, no complaint.
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Old 10-09-2002, 12:52 AM   #4615
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But i am using kawahara chassis now !
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Old 10-09-2002, 12:53 AM   #4616
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Quote:
Originally posted by dtm
Argh!!....guys you had all this FUN and you left me out!
you always come late !
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Old 10-09-2002, 12:58 AM   #4617
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Quote:
Originally posted by AMGRacer

Can I feel this when driving? Sure can. The car goes into a corner off power very nicely because of the light 10K oil I use then when I gas it hard (and the shoes bite to the case) the diff gets a whole bunch more resistance into it and the car then gets a tendency for mild oversteer (depending on your setup) which makes your tail end corner more quickly and more stable. The basic effect is a more stable tail end under power.

Is the effect mild? Sure is you have to be a good driver and have a well set up car to feel it. The negative diff NEVER locks up the diff like a solid will.
Hi AMG.

Interesting. . . . My driver (son) runs a negative diff which currently has the clutch removed. The previous owner replaced the out-drives which were flogged out with some "normal' ones which do not have the drive pin hole for the clutch. He couldn't get the kawa ones at the time and didn't believe there was much benefit in the neg. diff, anyway. I intend to get the correct out-drives and put the clutch back in 'cos we want to try it out. Oh, I guess I'll have to remedy that non-existant bearing for the clutch end outdrive, too.

Here's the question:
If your car goes "into a corner off power very nicely", then won't it come out of that corner without much influence from the neg diff, also? I guess, I'm thinking about the last 8 feet going into the corner and then the first 8 feet coming out. I'm imagining that the mild and progressive action of the clutch going into the corner will be duplicated coming out given the similar range of diff rotational speeds - I mean, it won't go into the corner like a 10K diff and then come out, suddenly bighting like a centax, will it?
Maybe all the significant clutch action happens within only 3 feet of going in and coming out of the corner, in which case I could see the point a bit better.
I'd be pleased if you could shed some light on this.
I have also wondered if increasing the weight of the clutch shoes might make a good neg. diff even better. Thoughts?

Cheers.
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Old 10-09-2002, 01:01 AM   #4618
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Quote:
Originally posted by Manticore
you always come late !
Is it safe to come out yet?
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Old 10-09-2002, 01:21 AM   #4619
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Quote:
Originally posted by Taylor-Racing
Is it safe to come out yet?
you bet !!
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Old 10-09-2002, 03:08 AM   #4620
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I am also running a negative diff in the rear, and race on the same tracks that amg does. We are the only 2 cars running it, and we can both get on power harder and quicker than everyone else.

It would be speculation as to when exactly the diff "locks up" but it is early on the exit of the corner, a lot less than 8 ft... I squease on full throttle just as I apex our sweeper and it is noticeably quicker out, as apposed to a gear diff. On tighter corners you can "see" the arse slide a little about 2 ft from the point I apply full throttle.
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