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Old 10-08-2002, 10:09 AM   #4546
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Quote:
Originally posted by RC
Can anyone comment on their experience for the rear diff when using a front one-way?
Useful in fast tracks with wide lanes and sweeping turns. Small tracks. 50X100. tracks require slower turns.

In particular has anyone tried or can describe the properties of:

Quote:
- Kyosho Active Diff Set
*Supposed to be adjustable with a set screw.
Acts like normal differential. Advantage, you can tune the front end to your style of driving and track conditions without changing diff fluids. (still trying to find my preferred style) Note: Do not adjust this until you get the chassis set up first. Useful in the rear as well but I have a negative diff in the rear of mine.


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3. Kawahara "Negative" Diff.
*Nice idea but not effective enough, by the time the inside wheel spins enough to engage the shoes, someone just passed you. And although you can further adjust with oil, you're now back to tear down and change fluids.
Get on the gas faster. You can do that with the negative diff. What lines are you driving. You can't determine what exactly is going on unless you are driving identical cars, engines, tires, etc. Only difference would be that the other car is equipped with a standard diff and same shock fluid.

My experiences with the Negative Diff....Incredible Traction. I recommend it. It's the best $80 I've ever spent. I don't know how you come up with your logic, RC but Um... in a wheelspin situation, you are still putting power down to at least one tire for a second, the clutch shoes on the diff engage only if one of the tires break traction. If you have both going then there is no need for the clutch to engage.

There is one small disadvantage, weight. But a couple of ounces on a 1hp motor is negligible. Accelerate sooner coming into a long straight. The only thing slowing you down at that point is aerodynamics on the body and the top speed of the motor. Does anyone race on a track with a straight longer than 150 ft?

Decide for yourselves, If there wasn't a distinct advantage, Kawahara wouldn't produce it. People wouldn't be buying it either. If you look at the machining, it is top notch and very intensive. A lot of thought went into this little device. It's not for everybody, everyone has a particular driving style.
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Old 10-08-2002, 10:20 AM   #4547
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forget all about diff ! only use rear solid axle on foam and front oneway !
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Old 10-08-2002, 10:23 AM   #4548
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Good for you Manticore! But, how big is your track? Is it asphalt? Are you running foams? Do you even read the posts? I'm talking about medium to small tracks. Mainly concrete.
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Old 10-08-2002, 10:25 AM   #4549
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Just bought a V one r Used, can someone post a good starting setup for a medium traction asphalt track ,not flowing, technical. Running rubber tires.

Thanks.
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Old 10-08-2002, 10:27 AM   #4550
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Quote:
Originally posted by autotr8er
Good for you Manticore! But, how big is your track? Is it asphalt? Are you running foams? Do you even read the posts? I'm talking about medium to small tracks. Mainly concrete.
we run the rear solid axle and front oneway on a small and tight technical track.

I have gone thru 4000+ post on this thread since last August. have you?
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Old 10-08-2002, 10:37 AM   #4551
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autotr8er:

Quote:
I don't know how you come up with your logic, RC but Um... in a wheelspin situation, you are still putting power down to at least one tire for a second, the clutch shoes on the diff engage only if one of the tires break traction.
I was refering to inside wheel spin and the "Negative" diff's lack of mid corner striking power, that is the ability to rapidy change line and accelerate in the middle of a turn (used as a counter move if someone is puttin' a move on you).

With the negative diff, when you change line and punch it, the inside wheel spins before it locks (by design just like a clutch). That little bit of wheel spin (I've found it to be too much) can cost you position in the corner.

It would be better if the clutch engagement was adjustable, but it's not (quikly, or easily).

"Negative" diff; worst $80 I've spent.

If someone thinks the attributes of this diff suits their driving style, email me and I'll sell it to you.

Thanks for the tip on th Active diff up front though.

Anyone tried the TCD gear set?
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Old 10-08-2002, 10:41 AM   #4552
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Quote:
Originally posted by autotr8er
Good for you Manticore! But, how big is your track? Is it asphalt? Are you running foams? Do you even read the posts? I'm talking about medium to small tracks. Mainly concrete.
The Track that Manticore runs is very very technical and tight, I know he is using front oneway and solid axle at the back with foam tires but his car is like planted on the surface, I have a bunch of video clips to support it!

I think it is just your set up or your driving habbit is not suitable to the track you are running that's all!
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Old 10-08-2002, 10:45 AM   #4553
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DUDE... Manti been around the block more than a FEW TIMES... HE so OLD here he FARTS DUST.

HAHAHAHA

do yourself a favor and read the WHOLE Thread ROOKIE!

LOL!


Quote:
Originally posted by autotr8er
Good for you Manticore! But, how big is your track? Is it asphalt? Are you running foams? Do you even read the posts? I'm talking about medium to small tracks. Mainly concrete.
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Old 10-08-2002, 10:47 AM   #4554
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Quote:
Originally posted by Hard Jokur
DUDE... Manti been around the block more than a FEW TIMES... HE so OLD here he FARTS DUST.

HAHAHAHA

do yourself a favor and read the WHOLE Thread ROOKIE!

LOL!
i dont even have a chance to see how I "fart" dust !
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Old 10-08-2002, 10:53 AM   #4555
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Quote:
Originally posted by RC
autotr8er:



I was refering to inside wheel spin and the "Negative" diff's lack of mid corner striking power, that is the ability to rapidy change line and accelerate in the middle of a turn (used as a counter move if someone is puttin' a move on you).

With the negative diff, when you change line and punch it, the inside wheel spins before it locks (by design just like a clutch). That little bit of wheel spin (I've found it to be too much) can cost you position in the corner.

It would be better if the clutch engagement was adjustable, but it's not (quikly, or easily).

"Negative" diff; worst $80 I've spent.

If someone thinks the attributes of this diff suits their driving style, email me and I'll sell it to you.

Thanks for the tip on th Active diff up front though.

Anyone tried the TCD gear set?
I tried the TCD gear set and I cannot feel any difference with a regular diff. The gear set is made of very hard but brittle metal. if you dont frequently renew the TCD fuild your gears will be broken easily.
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Old 10-08-2002, 10:57 AM   #4556
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Quote:
Originally posted by autotr8er
Good for you Manticore! But, how big is your track? Is it asphalt? Are you running foams? Do you even read the posts? I'm talking about medium to small tracks. Mainly concrete.
i think if your car is setup right..
running oneway and soild will not be any problem in small track ..
Manti's track is pretty techincal and tight i.. not big and huge...
I run a soild axle and frnt onway in my car in a track that is like half of manti track...
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Old 10-08-2002, 11:05 AM   #4557
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Quote:
Originally posted by Hard Jokur
DUDE... Manti been around the block more than a FEW TIMES... HE so OLD here he FARTS DUST.

HAHAHAHA

do yourself a favor and read the WHOLE Thread ROOKIE!

LOL!
LMAO, if he does that then it will take make like a month to do that! ka ka

Last edited by Ah10; 10-08-2002 at 11:11 AM.
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Old 10-08-2002, 11:06 AM   #4558
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manticore can you post your complete setup for solid rear / front one-way? Mine is fast but I have to pay so much attention to keep the rear from coming around.
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Old 10-08-2002, 11:07 AM   #4559
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Patella Dragger
Just to inform you and others that are mislead by magazine articles. The term coined by magazines, "rotational mass" is talking about a physics principle called "moment of intertia." Every spinning object has one and varies dependent upon its geometry. I could prove it mathematically but It'd be confusing to all but those that understand physics. The two differentials use the same components inside of them (gears and oil) which makes up the bulk of the mass of the diffs. The differences in the material weight is almost negligible. So the only other weight addition is the clutch mechanism and the weight of the housing. You are looking at a 15% difference in weight, yes. If you are running a 1hp motor the difference in acceleration is so small, you won't notice it. The difference in the amount of power required to turn the negative diff at the same angular acceleration is less that 2%!!!! So, take out the TR, put in a turbo TR and terrorize your local club track.
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Old 10-08-2002, 11:11 AM   #4560
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Quote:
Originally posted by Manticore
we run the rear solid axle and front oneway on a small and tight technical track.

I have gone thru 4000+ post on this thread since last August. have you?
I'm new to the thread, yes, but I have a double major in Mechanical and electrical engineering. I've worked for Ford, Goodyear and Now in the semiconductor industry. 10 years as an engineer. 8 in the automotive industry. I didn't see you 4000 posts. Looks like you are certainly busy here. I meant no disrespect, really. I just can't stand the little punks in here that always have a smart remark without insight to back up their claims.
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