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Old 09-10-2002, 07:16 PM   #3946
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thxs kevink2
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Old 09-10-2002, 11:16 PM   #3947
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Quote:
Originally posted by rjl

It's step 11 in the instruction manual. Set the gap between the A arm and the upright at .5mm (.02in) at the front, then use the rear pivot ball for toe in adjustment. The dog bones are just long enough, you need for the bones to float or you will wear the diff out drives.
Cool thank you! The weird thing about that though is in using that methodology, every time I change the rear toe in with the frontal pillow ball, the track width will change a bit (unless the wheels are toed out!). Honestly, I usually adjust the front pillow ball, so I know the toe in will not widen or narrow my car. Come to think of it, when this happened, I was running a little less toe in than I normally do. Interesting..., I think you've found the solution!

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Old 09-11-2002, 12:18 AM   #3948
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Track width will change no matter which adjustment you make. It's very important to stay within 200mm, if you have lots of toe then the rear of the wheel will be the widest point, I set the front pivot ball and make changes to the rear only, this will also affect camber. Do not remove all of the float in the dog bone as this will interfere with suspension.
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Old 09-11-2002, 12:49 AM   #3949
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Quote:
Originally posted by rjl
Track width will change no matter which adjustment you make. It's very important to stay within 200mm, if you have lots of toe then the rear of the wheel will be the widest point, I set the front pivot ball and make changes to the rear only, this will also affect camber. Do not remove all of the float in the dog bone as this will interfere with suspension.
simply compress the suspension and check for the dog bone/outdrive from blinding the suspension. besides, it is very important to leave equal amount of room on both side of the outdrive to prevent breaking the dogbone.
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Old 09-11-2002, 07:24 AM   #3950
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At full compression I have 1-2mm end float on the dog bone.
I am currently helping a friend build his R up to RR spec. I had to shorten his doggies to stop binding so if you are finding the kit bones too short there is a problem with the settings!
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Old 09-11-2002, 01:34 PM   #3951
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Yeah, I was definitely running 200 mm, it was a ROAR race and they were teching after every heat. The rear edges of the wheel were right at 200. I did have a bit more play than the 1-2 mm you just described. Of course the offset of the wheel can affect the pillow ball adjustments- what rear tires do you like to run? I was using the FAST tires by Mugen (GRP Power Tires and ELLEGI's are exactly the same, I think) in a 30mm width. I don't like the wheels on these foams, but they're cheap aned plentiful here in L.A. Thanks again for all the input guys!
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Old 09-11-2002, 02:27 PM   #3952
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hey guys, what receiver pack r u guys runing and will any batt. pack work on any radio?
also, did u guys get two shiny blue shims?
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Old 09-11-2002, 06:58 PM   #3953
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hello everyone,

I'm new to nitro touring sedans and wanted to get into the hobby with eventually racing in mind. I've narrowed down my choices to either the Kyosho V1rr or the Mugen MTX3 when it comes out. What do you guys think? Suggestions? I'm sure its a tough questions to answer figuring the MTX3 isnt even out yet. sorry if its not an easy question to answer. Furthermore, If i was to get a Kyosho, where would be the best place to get parts?
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Old 09-11-2002, 07:06 PM   #3954
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first
are u willing to pay all the money that goes into nitro touring?
engine, radio equipment, fuel, tuned pipe, manifold etc. etc.?
it comes out to quite a bit, but if you are
then go for whichever car you think appeals to u the most, the mtx-3 is just an mtx-2 hopped up(i think, correct me if i'm wrong) but sounds and looks like a superb car that could easily kick any run of the mill touring car's ass, but the v one rr is everything but run of the mill, lol
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Old 09-11-2002, 07:24 PM   #3955
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Well obviously I've decided that I can afford the hobby, as I'm not new to RC cars, just new to nitro, but anyhow. Thanks for the response. Anyone else got an opinion?, it would be much appreciated. I guess mostly for me, it depends on when Mugen is going to release the MTX3. If its gonna be next yr, ill get the V1rr now. If its gonna come out say, next month, then I'll wait and see what people have to say about it. But the V1rr looks great and I guess I'd just like some opinions on how competitive it will be in comparison to the new Serpent 705 and the MTX3. It looks like the MTX3 has flattened stuff out, battery, fuel tank, and steering servo and it looks like Kyosho did not change the geometry of the V1rr much from the V1r, that is my only concern, that the V1rr is not much of a departure from the V1r and that the MTX3 is more of a departure from the MTX2.
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Old 09-11-2002, 07:30 PM   #3956
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well, i think kyosho hit rite on the money from the start with the v one r, but wanted to spice it up with a centax clutch and a few other goodies to make it more "competitive" in todays market
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Old 09-11-2002, 07:41 PM   #3957
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yeah the centax clutch is the most obvious change. What other improvements were made on the V1rr?
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Old 09-11-2002, 07:55 PM   #3958
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why dont u go to their site?
www.kyosho.com/
go to cars and trucks, then look for the v one rr
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Old 09-11-2002, 07:59 PM   #3959
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dude, I've been to their site. But since you own the V1r i thought maybe u'd have some further insights? Guess not, thanks anyways.
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Old 09-11-2002, 07:59 PM   #3960
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One of the most important things is local support, do the Hobby shops in your area stock parts?
Either the Mugen or the Kyosho will serve you well in racing. The MTX3 is a new car not just an upgrade although many parts are common with the MTX2. The voner is heavy but very strong.
My suggestion is to go to the local shops and see how well they support the car.
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