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Old 09-09-2002, 11:46 AM   #3931
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Anyone notice the RR's flimsy rear shock tower?

Also, with the short dogbones in the rear, 3.5 degrees of camber, Fast tires 30mm, 200mm wide, my dogbones were trying to fall out of the drive cups, basically tearing up both, and tricking me into thinking I had a tweak problem (it first chipped the cup and later started wearing/grinding). My car would pull hard to the side on hard acceleration. At half throttle it drove straight. I'm trying to add rubber o-rings to the outdrives, or possibly go back to the original long swingshafts.

I've also found out Integy is making tons of hopups for the V-One R series, including the RR:

www.integy.com

find the scroll down bar and go to parts for V-One R,

or try this link:

http://secure400.automatedshops.com/...tml?p_catid=47

Last edited by kevink2; 09-09-2002 at 11:48 AM.
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Old 09-09-2002, 12:09 PM   #3932
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yeah I had the same problem, I bought my RR used and it had the short bones on the back and the car handled like a dog, don't see how the previous owner was driving it it was pulling so bad. I tried o-rings, it doesn't work, go back to the wide.


I just installed those integy wide universals in the RR for this weekend, they are BEEFY! Very good quality, they are 29.95 I believe but worth it. The 3 racing swing shafts look good but they bend very easy. I think the integy swing shafts that are 19.95 are the same as the three racing - they look exactly the same so if it's the same product don't waste your money.

As far as the rear shock tower I can't say that it feels flimsy to me, though i've seen a car with an aluminum one if you want more beef. lol.
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Old 09-09-2002, 02:20 PM   #3933
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waht would the benefit of a zac head have on mt 12 tr other than better cooling?
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Old 09-09-2002, 02:34 PM   #3934
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Quote:
Originally posted by patelladragger
yeah I had the same problem, I bought my RR used and it had the short bones on the back and the car handled like a dog, don't see how the previous owner was driving it it was pulling so bad. I tried o-rings, it doesn't work, go back to the wide.


I just installed those integy wide universals in the RR for this weekend, they are BEEFY! Very good quality, they are 29.95 I believe but worth it. The 3 racing swing shafts look good but they bend very easy. I think the integy swing shafts that are 19.95 are the same as the three racing - they look exactly the same so if it's the same product don't waste your money.

As far as the rear shock tower I can't say that it feels flimsy to me, though i've seen a car with an aluminum one if you want more beef. lol.
Yeah when my car pulled hard right, I sent it into the boards, and broke the shock tower. I didn't hit it that hard though. I noticed it flexes also. Good to hear about the integy uni's, I'll try them out. I'm also going to give the aluminum tower a try.
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Old 09-09-2002, 04:44 PM   #3935
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hey everyone, i got a quick question...............
will the kyosho v one rr be at the ifmar worlds?
if not, i really think kyosho should represent themselves and their cars/drivers more since they're amzing!
anyone?
later, i gotta go and play warcraft 3!!!
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Old 09-09-2002, 07:09 PM   #3936
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hey ish me again, would this dremel be powerful enough to slot my 2 stripped screws?Designed for drilling, sanding, shaping, detailing and other light-duty jobs, this compact, go-anywhere, use-anytime tool comes in extremely handy around the house. It features two speeds and can be used with any Dremel® accessory bit with up to a 1/8" shank.

FEATURES
- Light and compact, it’s easy to handle and can be used anywhere.
- Two-speed motor lets you work at 5,000 or 10,000 rpm.
- Removable, interchangeable battery packs charge in just three hours.
- Rugged, shatter resistant housing protects against everyday bumps.
- Shaft lock button and a unique knurled collet nut make changing bits easy, so no wrench is required.

SPECIFICATIONS
Tool Weight..............9 oz. (with battery)
Speeds.....................2 (5,000 rpm and 10,000 rpm)
Volts..........................4.8 DC
Collet Capacity........1/32"-1/8"
Warranty...................2 years
thxs in advance
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Old 09-09-2002, 08:50 PM   #3937
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Quote:
Originally posted by patelladragger
yeah I had the same problem, I bought my RR used and it had the short bones on the back and the car handled like a dog, don't see how the previous owner was driving it it was pulling so bad. I tried o-rings, it doesn't work, go back to the wide.


I just installed those integy wide universals in the RR for this weekend, they are BEEFY! Very good quality, they are 29.95 I believe but worth it. The 3 racing swing shafts look good but they bend very easy. I think the integy swing shafts that are 19.95 are the same as the three racing - they look exactly the same so if it's the same product don't waste your money.

As far as the rear shock tower I can't say that it feels flimsy to me, though i've seen a car with an aluminum one if you want more beef. lol.
I'm a little confused. If you run the long dogbones instead of the short ones with 30mm rear tires, won't that extend the width of the rear past the 200mm limit?
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Old 09-09-2002, 09:22 PM   #3938
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Quote:
Originally posted by asd
waht would the benefit of a zac head have on mt 12 tr other than better cooling?
Better cooling means you can lean the engine out a little more for more power
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Old 09-09-2002, 10:32 PM   #3939
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The dogbones off the Mugen MTX2 are about 3mm longer than the standard v-one doggies...I am assuming that the v1r and rr are the same. they go in perfectly but you will have to run the track at the full 200mm.
And they're about $3 cheaper than the kyosho ones.
GT
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Old 09-09-2002, 11:47 PM   #3940
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If you have set the gap between the upright and wishbone to the correct gap there is no problem with the RR dog bones, standard voner bones are longer than RR.
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Old 09-10-2002, 01:47 AM   #3941
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Quote:
Originally posted by kevink2
Anyone notice the RR's flimsy rear shock tower?

Also, with the short dogbones in the rear, 3.5 degrees of camber, Fast tires 30mm, 200mm wide, my dogbones were trying to fall out of the drive cups, basically tearing up both, and tricking me into thinking I had a tweak problem (it first chipped the cup and later started wearing/grinding). My car would pull hard to the side on hard acceleration. At half throttle it drove straight. I'm trying to add rubber o-rings to the outdrives, or possibly go back to the original long swingshafts.

I've also found out Integy is making tons of hopups for the V-One R series, including the RR:

www.integy.com

find the scroll down bar and go to parts for V-One R,

or try this link:

http://secure400.automatedshops.com/...tml?p_catid=47
I had a similar problem with my rear dogbones. I added an o ring and it is fine. The rear track of my car is 200mm. Any more and you will have strife, probably fall out. I think with the long swingshafts you will likely be over 200mm rear track, but mayby not try some from the front and check it or if you are not worried about being legal.................

My brake linkage failed on my car at the end of a 190 foot straight and my car hit a chain link fence airborne at probably 50mph, the rear end took most of the hit. Picked it up and dusted it off without a scratch. So I would say I am happy with the rear turret strength.
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Old 09-10-2002, 09:13 AM   #3942
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Quote:
Originally posted by asd
hey ish me again, would this dremel be powerful enough to slot my 2 stripped screws?....thxs in advance
Sounds fine.
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Old 09-10-2002, 09:22 AM   #3943
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Quote:
Originally posted by rjl
If you have set the gap between the upright and wishbone to the correct gap there is no problem with the RR dog bones, standard voner bones are longer than RR.
rjl: Which "gap" are you referring to, I still don't get it? Are you talking about the rear camber adjustment? Or track width/toe in adjustments with the pillowballs? I'm set at 200mm, 3.5 degrees neg. camber, and 2 degrees of toe-in. At these adjustments the standard dogbones (like the fronts) seems to fit.

AMG: That's good the rear end held up. I think in my case the back was loose (for obvious reasons) and spun around and backed into the board.

squizzy: Thanks for that MTX tip, excellent. It's funny because just as I posted this, my R/C Car mag. came in the mail, and some one asked the same question in one of the tech areas, and they came up with the same solution!
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Old 09-10-2002, 09:56 AM   #3944
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It still could be the brake disk, they tend to get cocked off and bind even if they don't look like they hit the pads. Usually, the car will roll backwards freely and bind going foreward.

The other things that I've seen happen are, mixing up the pullys making the front end underdriving the front. That won't bind the car up if it's up in the air though.

(I don't have my car to look) One of the screw holes for the top plate goes towards the left main shaft bearing. If you put a longer screw in that hole, it "squershes" the bearing and binds things up. If you run the car like that, the bearing will sieze up, melt the bulkhead and make you very very sad. I've been there.

The last thing is the spacing of the main shaft and rear diff. I've seen the bearings bind up (cocked a little) and make the diff fit snug in the rear bulkhead.
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Old 09-10-2002, 05:55 PM   #3945
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Quote:
Originally posted by kevink2


rjl: Which "gap" are you referring to, I still don't get it? Are you talking about the rear camber adjustment? Or track width/toe in adjustments with the pillowballs? I'm set at 200mm, 3.5 degrees neg. camber, and 2 degrees of toe-in. At these adjustments the standard dogbones (like the fronts) seems to fit.

AMG: That's good the rear end held up. I think in my case the back was loose (for obvious reasons) and spun around and backed into the board.

squizzy: Thanks for that MTX tip, excellent. It's funny because just as I posted this, my R/C Car mag. came in the mail, and some one asked the same question in one of the tech areas, and they came up with the same solution!
It's step 11 in the instruction manual. Set the gap between the A arm and the upright at .5mm (.02in) at the front, then use the rear pivot ball for toe in adjustment. The dog bones are just long enough, you need for the bones to float or you will wear the diff out drives.
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