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Old 09-02-2002, 11:59 PM   #3796
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Yep the V1RR GT comes with a wide bumper and a narrow one. Shipping can be a fair bit. Expect $20 for about 10-15 sets and $30 for 15+
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Old 09-03-2002, 12:12 AM   #3797
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Default Question on Negative Diff

I had a question on what is a Negative Diff exactly? I understand the benefits of a solid rear axle with foams but what does this Negative Diff do and how does it work??

Caesar....
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Old 09-03-2002, 12:15 AM   #3798
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Quote:
Originally posted by AMGRacer
Yep the V1RR GT comes with a wide bumper and a narrow one. Shipping can be a fair bit. Expect $20 for about 10-15 sets and $30 for 15+
That doesn't sound to bad, roughly about $2 bucks for shipping per set. Thanks for the info, I might give them a try.

Now what do you suggest for the shore rating? I've heard 35 and under are the best.

LoL Just Joking. Please do not respond to that last part. Everyone seems to be a little over sensitive on this site lately. I've been reading this site for almost a year now, and it has always been a reliable source of good information. Let's just get past all of this who said what BS, and get back to the reason this thread was started in the first place. To help each other out.

Thanks for all the information from everyone.
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Old 09-03-2002, 12:15 AM   #3799
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Quote:
Originally posted by caesari
I had a question on what is a Negative Diff exactly? I understand the benefits of a solid rear axle with foams but what does this Negative Diff do and how does it work??

Caesar....
It is a diff which has a clutch integrated into it. The theory is that when the diff housing is spinning fast then the differential is locked like a solid axle. When the diff housing is spinning slowly the clutch disengages and it becomes a normal gear diff.
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Old 09-03-2002, 12:24 AM   #3800
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Quote:
Originally posted by DCR1TWO


That doesn't sound to bad, roughly about $2 bucks for shipping per set. Thanks for the info, I might give them a try.

Now what do you suggest for the shore rating? I've heard 35 and under are the best.

LoL Just Joking. Please do not respond to that last part. Everyone seems to be a little over sensitive on this site lately. I've been reading this site for almost a year now, and it has always been a reliable source of good information. Let's just get past all of this who said what BS, and get back to the reason this thread was started in the first place. To help each other out.

Thanks for all the information from everyone.
Yeah it normally works out to about $8-9 for each set which is a bargain!!! I always get about 15 sets. The Q World tire grinder is pretty cool cause the cutting blade is actually a jigsaw blade so replacement parts are really cheap

Yeah I agree about the over sensitive part. Even if my posts are full of rubbish or opinion this is a discussion board!!! Some people seem to enjoy picking apart peoples posts and wordings instead of finding the actual spirit of the post. I always read others posts and decide whether I agree with it or not, I encourage others to take my advice with a large grain of salt
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Old 09-03-2002, 12:59 AM   #3801
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Quote:
Originally posted by AMGRacer


Yeah it normally works out to about $8-9 for each set which is a bargain!!! I always get about 15 sets. The Q World tire grinder is pretty cool cause the cutting blade is actually a jigsaw blade so replacement parts are really cheap

Yeah I agree about the over sensitive part. Even if my posts are full of rubbish or opinion this is a discussion board!!! Some people seem to enjoy picking apart peoples posts and wordings instead of finding the actual spirit of the post. I always read others posts and decide whether I agree with it or not, I encourage others to take my advice with a large grain of salt
Do you know if they use the same bit on the Ofna Automatic version? I'm always looking for a way to cut costs and if replacement parts are cheap and easy to find (jigsaw blades, etc.), I might just have to score one.

BTW - What MM is everyone truing their foams down to, and what camber are you guys running to keep the foams running flat? I just started running foams, and at the race I was at a couple of weeks ago, I saw one of the fast guys take a brand new set of foams and true them down. I thought he was nuts, until I watched him win. I couldn't believe how much grip he was getting from the foams.
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Old 09-03-2002, 01:59 AM   #3802
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Quote:
Originally posted by DCR1TWO


Do you know if they use the same bit on the Ofna Automatic version? I'm always looking for a way to cut costs and if replacement parts are cheap and easy to find (jigsaw blades, etc.), I might just have to score one.

BTW - What MM is everyone truing their foams down to, and what camber are you guys running to keep the foams running flat? I just started running foams, and at the race I was at a couple of weeks ago, I saw one of the fast guys take a brand new set of foams and true them down. I thought he was nuts, until I watched him win. I couldn't believe how much grip he was getting from the foams.
Yeah the Ofna auto version also uses a jigsaw blade, pretty sweet huh. The RCModel shop stocks these items for about $200.

I usually true the foams down to about 62mm. Even tho some people on this forum do not believe me I can tell you that running a lower diameter tire with a harder shore foam will result in a better handling car due to less sidewall flex. I would alway advise running a harder foam shore 40 is a good starting point and true it down to around 62-60mm for a medium grip track or 58 or lower for high grip. Adjust the springs etc to suit. It does seem a waste to cut into the foams, but if you want good performance............
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Old 09-03-2002, 03:10 AM   #3803
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Use Hudy arbors for the tire truer. They fit better.

As for the warping of the Zac wheels. They all do that with the oneway at the track HAG and I run on. The hex drive strips out the hex in the wheel causing wobble.

BTW relax guys I don't want to come in here and play parent like the last time.

Last edited by Sydewynder; 09-03-2002 at 03:13 AM.
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Old 09-03-2002, 04:43 AM   #3804
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sydewynder
Use Hudy arbors for the tire truer. They fit better.

As for the warping of the Zac wheels. They all do that with the oneway at the track HAG and I run on. The hex drive strips out the hex in the wheel causing wobble.

BTW relax guys I don't want to come in here and play parent like the last time.
So the Hudy arbors fit the Q-World truer??? Might have to give it a try.

I promise to play nice if others do Mr Fok
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Old 09-03-2002, 07:02 AM   #3805
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Quote:
Originally posted by AMGRacer


So the Hudy arbors fit the Q-World truer??? Might have to give it a try.

I promise to play nice if others do Mr Fok
the arbors are interchangeable. I have the hudy power and I run ofna arbor for touring car and Hudy arbor for pan car.

The cutting bits are interchangeable as well. If you want the best cuts go ahead and get the carbide cutting tool - it will work on either one and is HIGHLY recommended.

There is a store on east coast called pit-stop hobbies that can sell you a power for 205 or the excellent for 385. I couldn't stomach the 385 but I wanted Hudy quality. My understanding is that if you buy the power there is an HUDY upgrade that you can get if you decide to make it into a fully automatic excellent.

Give the guy at RCGasCars a call if you aren't about to make at least a 150 dollar order from overseas - he has way more than what's listed on his website and is very good to work with.

As far as this shore thing don't be afraid to try any shore. [edit] I do agree 40's/42's are a good starting point but if you need to go up or down from there by all means...[/edit] At my track at the start of the season when it was cold you weren't going to get good traction on a slick parking lot with 40's. Now it's warm and we've laid down VHT the last few races I'm running 40 rear and 45 front.

The sidewall flex and squirmyness will come from running too large a diameter no matter which shore. I don't mind truing my tires because I've found if I try to get run-time out of them when they're up over 63mm they're much more likely to chunk - so once I figured out cutting them down actually extends their life AS well as being critical to handling a truer I had to have.

Last edited by patelladragger; 09-03-2002 at 07:31 AM.
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Old 09-03-2002, 02:04 PM   #3806
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sorry about all the newb posts, and yes i am somewhat a newb, i used to have a ntc3 but felt that it broke toomuch so sold it, u see, my friend built it for me cause i didnt want to build it myself and still wanted killer performance, anyways, i fixed all the problems, clutch is spinning freely while flywheel is not, 2 speed also moving freely on the 2 speed changer and now i just have to tune the engine
by the way, in the 12 tr manual, they dont say anyhting about the low speed needle, what would be a good break in setting for the low speed needle ie. turn the needle clockwise so it stops gently, then turn it counter clockwise 5 turns, etc etc, it would really help
thxs in advance
peace out
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Old 09-03-2002, 04:29 PM   #3807
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Quote:
Originally posted by asd
sorry about all the newb posts, and yes i am somewhat a newb, i used to have a ntc3 but felt that it broke toomuch so sold it, u see, my friend built it for me cause i didnt want to build it myself and still wanted killer performance, anyways, i fixed all the problems, clutch is spinning freely while flywheel is not, 2 speed also moving freely on the 2 speed changer and now i just have to tune the engine
by the way, in the 12 tr manual, they dont say anyhting about the low speed needle, what would be a good break in setting for the low speed needle ie. turn the needle clockwise so it stops gently, then turn it counter clockwise 5 turns, etc etc, it would really help
thxs in advance
peace out
Check out the instruction manual here: http://www.osengines.com/manuals/12tr-manual.pdf

Look on page 17. It tells you low end is set flush with carb body and rotate 2.5 turns in.
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Old 09-03-2002, 08:05 PM   #3808
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thxs dude, anyhow, i got another question, lol, when i start up the engine it sounds just fine but when i put it on the ground, it sounds like its moving, but its not, is the engine loading up?
and how do u "unload" the engine, (without taking out the glowplug plz)
thxs in advance
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Old 09-03-2002, 09:21 PM   #3809
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Quote:
Originally posted by asd
thxs dude, anyhow, i got another question, lol, when i start up the engine it sounds just fine but when i put it on the ground, it sounds like its moving, but its not, is the engine loading up?
and how do u "unload" the engine, (without taking out the glowplug plz)
thxs in advance
Loaded up engine is a term we use to describe a verry verry rich setting on the carb and there is exsesive amount of fuel,oil in the crank case and in the pipe. This is something that happens when you do an initial break-in of the engine.
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Old 09-03-2002, 09:22 PM   #3810
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Hey who made sydewynder the keeper of the peace

I want to know is he ready for the LA trip
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