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Old 06-03-2002, 10:37 PM   #2866
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Quote:
Originally posted by Manticore


Let me BEAM BEAM my Lo Chan !!

Commander Data's Log, Stardate 200206.03

Trade route of Ekosian foam tire had been badly disrupted by the Ferengis. Supply of Ekosian foam tire is very low in the LA sector. Star Fleet Command estimated the situation would become critical in about six Stardays. Need to establish temporary trade route through the HK quadrant until the normal trade route is restored.

End of Log
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Old 06-03-2002, 10:51 PM   #2867
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I know this is not the place but the new smilies ROCK
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Old 06-03-2002, 10:51 PM   #2868
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Quote:
Originally posted by Data



Commander Data's Log, Stardate 200206.03

Trade route of Ekosian foam tire had been badly disrupted by the Ferengis. Supply of Ekosian foam tire is very low in the LA sector. Star Fleet Command estimated the situation would become critical in about six Stardays. Need to establish temporary trade route through the HK quadrant until the normal trade route is restored.

End of Log
What in the world are you talking about?? anyway welcome on board
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Old 06-03-2002, 11:12 PM   #2869
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Quote:
Originally posted by Ah10


What in the world are you talking about?? anyway welcome on board
I only have one set of front tire left, don't know what to use for the rear this weekend. The tires I ordered from HK won't be here until next week. Can I borrow some of yours ?

Last edited by Data; 06-04-2002 at 02:39 AM.
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Old 06-04-2002, 12:06 PM   #2870
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What's the part number for the front shock tower on the VoneR.
Trying to get it from towerHobbies.......... The one with 3 mounting holes.

Thanks
-TG
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Old 06-04-2002, 07:52 PM   #2871
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Anyone tried to use an RB 5 Port with a Kyosho RE manifold and black pipe? Did it explode? Did it work well?
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Old 06-04-2002, 11:19 PM   #2872
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Quote:
Originally posted by THeGame
What's the part number for the front shock tower on the VoneR.
Trying to get it from towerHobbies.......... The one with 3 mounting holes.

Thanks
-TG
That would be VZ011

the kid
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Old 06-05-2002, 02:05 AM   #2873
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Quote:
Originally posted by ozzie boy
hey

i got a few qusetions about the v1r

soon i might be selling my ob4 and gettin a v1r
and i wanna keep racing in the pull start class at my club
is there anyway to get a pull start in one? i saw a fella that did it but i cant find the page where he did it
and also what parts seem to break easyest?


thanks
ChriS
Ozzie Boy:

Did you find my posts regarding the pullstart version of the v-one r... The only parts you need to get is some custom shafts that extend the side belt out that extra width of the pull start. I have tried both Alloy (T6) and Mild Steal shafts, the only problem with the mild steal is the extra weight over the standard shafts, but their is other areas you can remove this weight from.... E-mail if you have any further queries.

Manitcore: I have stopped running the pullstart car and gone back to the stock setup as i couldn't get enough speed out of my pullstart engine

My modified Os Cv has been clocked at 65km/hr and i still believe there is room for improvement!
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Old 06-05-2002, 10:11 AM   #2874
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will the kawahara neg diff fit in the front? I was thinkiing that would turn in like a 1way then you would have full braking also
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Old 06-05-2002, 03:59 PM   #2875
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Quote:
Originally posted by nova racer
will the kawahara neg diff fit in the front? I was thinkiing that would turn in like a 1way then you would have full braking also
It should fit fine, however I have not actually tried. It would not turn in quite as well as a one-way, but better than a diff full of 50K I think a few people have tried the Kyosho LSD on each end with quite good results.
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Old 06-06-2002, 05:00 PM   #2876
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I have finally finished building my V1RR GT!

However, i can't seem to get the OS TR (P) started. When i push down on the starter box, the flywheel spins with the pinions etc, but the piston inside doesn't seem to move up and down. I grabbed the allen driver and spun the screw in the end of the pilot shaft, and the piston seemed stuck, and that seems why the starter box couldn't turn it over, cause it just don't have enough grunt. But mind you, the batteries in the box are fully charged, and i think the problem is with the motor setup.

1 thing i didn't do though when building the kit though, in (Step 18) was to ensure there was a space between the flywheel and the motor, when being slid on the pilot shaft. Would this be causing the problem?

Also, when screwing the flywheel nut on the pilot shaft, does this need to have loctite applied? Reason i am asking is because when i took back off the pinions and the like (i.e. reverse step 19), and when i spin the flywheel, the flywheel nut seems to unwind and the whole lot winds off.

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated guys
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Old 06-06-2002, 05:29 PM   #2877
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Well it sounds like you have built the clutch wrong. The centax clutches are kinda tricky to get right first time.

The flywheel must not rub the case for a start. Also the flywheel retaining nut must be very tight and loctited.

If the piston is stuck then just lossen the glow plug a turn and start it, then tighten the glow plug when it starts.
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Old 06-07-2002, 03:39 PM   #2878
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My buddy ran his clutch with the factory settings, ran just fine... in fact he did tiighten the clutch a bit more to keep it from grabbing too early.


go back and redo your clutch, best to start from step 1.


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Old 06-07-2002, 07:40 PM   #2879
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Default Re: Frustrated

Quote:
Originally posted by Glenn
I have finally finished building my V1RR GT!

However, i can't seem to get the OS TR (P) started. When i push down on the starter box, the flywheel spins with the pinions etc, but the piston inside doesn't seem to move up and down. I grabbed the allen driver and spun the screw in the end of the pilot shaft, and the piston seemed stuck, and that seems why the starter box couldn't turn it over, cause it just don't have enough grunt. But mind you, the batteries in the box are fully charged, and i think the problem is with the motor setup.

1 thing i didn't do though when building the kit though, in (Step 18) was to ensure there was a space between the flywheel and the motor, when being slid on the pilot shaft. Would this be causing the problem?

Also, when screwing the flywheel nut on the pilot shaft, does this need to have loctite applied? Reason i am asking is because when i took back off the pinions and the like (i.e. reverse step 19), and when i spin the flywheel, the flywheel nut seems to unwind and the whole lot winds off.

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated guys

1/. check shim between flywheel and engine casing. The manual said you need shim to make sure flywheel wont catch on casing when you tighten the clutch nut.

2/. make sure you shim correctly between the clutch nut and the inner clutch bell bearing. your clutch bell should be able to spin freely (shim until it is just able to spin freely) when you position your engine so that the clutch bell pointing upward. the trust bearing end play plays important adjustment role for engagement point also, you need around 0.3 to 0.5 play between the outter clutch bearing and the trust bearing.

3/. the stock clutch spring is a bit soft with nowaday hi performance engine. It is just fine with OS engine but you need a stiffer clutch spring for novarossi engine. you may use serpent centax clutch spring to increase clutch spring preload.
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Old 06-09-2002, 06:35 PM   #2880
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hi all

is there any thing i should look out 4 when buying a second hand v1rr

tnx
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