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Old 10-22-2003, 08:38 AM   #106
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I use one medium spring clip to makeup the difference.
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Old 10-22-2003, 04:11 PM   #107
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Default shock Length

make sure the shock length is no less than 65mm when extended. Some have said to lengthen that by 2.5mm? troy from Shuwy told me to use the mission shock towers, they add shock travel if that's what your issue is?
As for my first time driving the car.... While I have some setup issue to workout, I did notice somethings
1. The car drives extremly well on power, if I lost the rear end, a blip brought me back on track.
2. The car has incredible braking with the braking clutch feature activated.
3 I ran one of the stiffest setups I have ever run, and the car was still managable. My reason for doing that is that stiff is fast, and now I will find ways to get more traction including going softer in the suspension. I think the setup for p-lots will be very similar to the Serpent Impulse of old. 80wt up front with #3 piston, 40wt in the rear #3 piston. Springs are medium upfront with soft in the rear. I'm running zero toe up front, and 3 in the rear. I think that 1 degree toe in, will be perfect for the front, and 2 degree toe in for the rear. Troy also suggested adding 2mm shim's under the shock bulkhead in the rear to increase roll-center, but I think that will be the permenant track setup hot ticket. With the bumpiness of a p-lot, you need the car to re-center as soon as possible, so I'm going with the stock roll center.
All I need now is a solid front axel for this baby! I can always add OFNA 100,000wt silicon diff oil to simulate a locked front axel (old school trick).
All in all the car was wicked fast!!! I am running the Nova Mega 2.1 rear exhaust turbo and WOW!! The transmission on this car is so efficient that at half throttle, my car is faster than every car at my track down the straightaway. I have yet to get a full throttle pull, and we have a 140' straightaway! The car just accelerates too fast!
I'll post more info, as I get a better setup on the car. Right now its bone stock setup, and that WILL NOT work in a P-Lot the way most would like.

Last edited by ChrisCrash; 10-23-2003 at 07:41 AM.
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Old 10-23-2003, 07:09 AM   #108
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Default setup

I have tested the r12 with the set up that Paul gave me, with the mission shock towers and the extending of the shocks to 68 mm , and when i tested the car at our home track(FTSPEEDWAY) I was very well impressed. The car was like a magnet on the track. The car did what ever i wanted to, exellent set-up thanks Paul. Hey Paul are you coming to Kissimmee this weekend? I think that Jorge is going to run both layouts this weekend. Anyway thanks alot for the set up.
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Old 10-23-2003, 07:44 AM   #109
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Marcos, thanks for placing that post, I noticed that I stated the info backwards! What type of track are you running on? Is it a P-Lot? Sharing any other things you have tried with the car would be apprichiated.
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Old 10-24-2003, 06:16 AM   #110
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Quote:
Originally posted by ChrisCrash
Marcos, thanks for placing that post, I noticed that I stated the info backwards! What type of track are you running on? Is it a P-Lot? Sharing any other things you have tried with the car would be apprichiated.
No is a permanent track go to www.myrcworld.net , then got to tracks and look for FTSPEEDWAY in kissimmee fl and look on the left side for images, you will see the pics of the track.
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Old 10-30-2003, 01:54 AM   #111
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parts interchangable?

Are parts, such as the carbon fiber top deck and shock towers from the R12 Fusion interchangable with the Nitro Fusion with the .21 motor?

thanks
-brad
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Old 10-30-2003, 02:01 AM   #112
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Quote:
Originally posted by PW
I use one medium spring clip to makeup the difference.
Thanks PW
I used the setup you posted with the spring clip and the car was very fast Sticks to the track like glue, thanks alot for your advice
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Old 10-30-2003, 02:35 AM   #113
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Default Re: parts interchangable?

Quote:
Originally posted by bustaman
Are parts, such as the carbon fiber top deck and shock towers from the R12 Fusion interchangable with the Nitro Fusion with the .21 motor?

thanks
-brad
Bustaman

Yes they are interchangeble, I have both cars and race both cars
and alot of the parts are changeble
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Old 10-30-2003, 02:33 PM   #114
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Talking thanks

Awesome thanks for the reply Picard!

1 more ? though...

where can you get these neato carbon fiber parts and the likes of other hop ups from? so far ive seen Schumachers site (www.racing-cars.com) and the Harco Hobbies site, but neither seem to have many pics or info about these parts. Are there any others out there, or thats it?


-brad
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Old 10-30-2003, 08:25 PM   #115
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Brad

I am in Melbourne Australia, and my LHS stocks evrything for the car, but I think Paul W can help you with parts in the states, look up the thread and you will see PW. Where are you from Brad?

Anthony
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Old 10-30-2003, 10:02 PM   #116
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heh.. Im way OVER here..... in New York, on Long Island.

Just from browsing through this forum and googleing my way around the interent, it just seems that the Shumacher doesnt seem to be as widespread in the US and im trying to figure out what my options are with buying things in the future for with the fusion....... b/c is seems to fun to pass up right now!

-brad
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Old 11-03-2003, 04:05 PM   #117
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Default clutch

Hey PW , is there anyway to adjust the r12 clutch to make it engage later?. Some one told me to drill holes on the shoes. But i rather hear the advise from you if possible.
Thanks Marcos
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Old 11-04-2003, 01:11 AM   #118
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Adjusting R12 clutch is possible, but problematic. Theoretically yes, making the shoes lighter will do what you want. You could drill holes or file off some material from lower part of the trailing edge, but there is another issue with R12 clutch. The pin holes are too sloppy and the shoes can move too much on the pins, causing them to engage early on the right side, rather than on the trailing edge, as it should be. You can tell if it does that by the wear marks on the shoe. Mine had wear marks on the right side at the pin location (leading edge), where it shouldn't have any.
What I have done is removing about 1 mm material from lower part of the trailing edge and about 0.5 mm from the upper part of the leading edge, see the added (bad) picture. The result is lighter shoe that sits "deeper", so it doesn't contact the clutchbell so easily when the right side raises due to the centrifugal forces. I'm not saying it's the perfect way to do is, but it works to some extent. Maybe the factory boys have neater ways of doing this.
Main thing is don't touch the upper surface of trailing edge (I have left 50-60% intact), because this is the part that actually contacts the clutch bell, it has to be smooth.
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File Type: bmp r12 clutch mod.bmp (43.0 KB, 216 views)
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Old 11-04-2003, 09:20 AM   #119
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Hey guys....As for the clutch, I do something simular to olev, but I remove alittle more from the inside of the clutch. I cut the inside portion at a sweeping 45deg angle.

Bustaman....If you don't have a local dealer in your area, please give me a call or e-mail and I will get you taken care of 813 889 9691 or [email protected]
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Old 11-04-2003, 01:52 PM   #120
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Has any one tryed putting a cyntax on the Fusion yet?
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