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Old 07-29-2011, 10:05 PM   #511
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And here is when you use aluminum paper front and rear diff ball bearing mounts or the other solutions to fix the slop issue.



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Old 07-31-2011, 07:18 AM   #512
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Im going to have to dig in my garage and bring this car out of retirement
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Old 07-31-2011, 11:40 AM   #513
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Originally Posted by Marcos.J View Post
Im going to have to dig in my garage and bring this car out of retirement
Yes that's the attitud. How many times did you brought back the R12 from retirement? heheh! Freaking R12 looking awesome Marcos. It looks kind of different than mines. What kind of engine and pipe is that? Oh and one another thing, what kind of servos you're are using. I think I can get more cornering speed, If I use a decent more sophisticated steering servo. I was and still have the same old JR Z590M, that doesn't help me that much I think. Any recommendation servo for my R12 Marcos?

Here are my R12's One for race and the other for spareparts or test drive.

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Old 07-31-2011, 07:57 PM   #514
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Third issue (actually not an issue, but a disadvantage for this car): The R12 Clutch.

Pros: Nice for bashing, or running around.
Cons: Not competitive for touring races compare to the other cars around today. Not even modifying the shoes, springs, etc still was in disadvantage.

First Possible solution: A Centax Clutch. But it never happened.
Second Possible solution: A push type and adjustable clutch so it can be used with you're regular stock clutchbell with gears. The options are the Werks and the SPM Clutches. I first had the chance to verify with the Werks clutch, but I think it didn't work for some kind of a reason the clutchbell didn't fit with the Werks clutch. Although both clutches looks the same, but there internally diameters are different. (I might be wrong with this, but is up to you if you wanna try with the Werks Racing Clutch then, but I'll try to verify again if I can find a Werks clutch in the future.). In that case the SPM Racing Clutch was the one to choose.

Parth numbers:
SPM108A - it comes with black carbon shoes. Good grip with mild slip and wear.
SPM108R - it comes with red rulon shoes. More grip with non slip, but with fast wear.
You don't want to use the teflon white shoes otherwise you'll wouldn't being upgrading.

Some hints and advice: Was kind difficult to search and buy this product on the internet, because most of them you'll find them on Italy web sites. (In my case though because I live in the US territory) The official web site for this clutch is http://www.spmracingparts.com/ and I think you can't buy nothing from them. Once you have you're SPM Clutch in your hands, please be patience. This might or might not work in your first attempt so take you're time. This is going to be more like a trial an error until done. But once you're done, you're gonna gain a great reward from this upgrade.

I'll try to explain the things that needs to do bit by bit, to fit this clutch on you're Fusion R12. But for some of you who have more experience and have better ideas, please put them on this thread so we can all help each other.


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Last edited by Z24; 08-01-2011 at 12:05 AM.
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Old 07-31-2011, 09:14 PM   #515
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Some pictures of the clutch







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Old 08-01-2011, 11:49 PM   #516
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Ok, here is the whole set of clutch system in separate pieces.




Another pic from a top view
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Old 08-02-2011, 12:25 AM   #517
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Ok, let's roll


First step is to shim or to get some spacers to put them so the MAIN Belt pass trough the engine and the flywheel without rubbing. They measured about 3mm with 1/8 wide, this is the basic from here on, so the rest it will depends on your engine. Let's hope you can make it without a problem. Next is the engine cone, so here too it depends on your engine. I used the rossi one though.





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Old 08-02-2011, 12:53 AM   #518
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Lets start to install.

Here you install the 3mm spacers on your cranckshaft.


Later the engine cone.


Next the flywheel.


Later after that, put and screw the clutch nut. I suggest you do some trial an error with this before continuing the next steps. Because for some unexplained reason, If put more shims or spacers, the clutch nut would not grip the flywheel, if I put less shims, the flywheel gets loose completely. After this try to install the engine an check for the passage of the MAIN BELT.


Your engine should look something like this. It looks like it is rubbing but is not. I'll post some more pictures later.

Last edited by Z24; 08-02-2011 at 10:19 AM.
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Old 08-02-2011, 08:31 AM   #519
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Alright, once you finished your previews step. Put some tread lock on your crank shaft thread so the clutch nut could be very tight.


Then put the shoes.


Then the pressure plate.


The hard spring(silver).


The adjuster Nut.


You can start to adjust at least 1 thread expose, I'll explain later what happens.


Your bearing, you can use a 5x9x3.


Then your engine end cap.


The clutch bell.


The bearing flanged.


The engine screw with the washers. Put some a bit of thread lock just in case. I had some bad experience with this.


Alright this should be it. Clutch complete.

Last edited by Z24; 08-02-2011 at 09:22 AM.
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Old 08-02-2011, 08:41 AM   #520
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Ohh! one last thing. I had to put some washers on the engine mount, because the flywheel rubbed the floor when I run my car and chew the outer of the flywheel and a couple of times the engine stopped. But didn't happened that much just one or two. The R12 stock flywheel measures 34mm, the SPM flywheel measures 37mm. So it will rubbed the floor.



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Old 08-02-2011, 08:50 AM   #521
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Some more information installation of the clutch if you like.

http://www.werksracing.com/powerinstructions.html

http://forums.thetoyz.com/index.php?showtopic=3117
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Old 08-02-2011, 11:25 AM   #522
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Z - it's really fun to read your howto's, but in all honesty, I think you're alone with the car... the R12 has been dead for years and we should let it rest in peace. Just makes me wonder if you really REALLY have nothing better to do with your time than to write howto's about a car that nobody runs any more
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Old 08-02-2011, 05:50 PM   #523
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olev View Post
Z - it's really fun to read your howto's, but in all honesty, I think you're alone with the car... the R12 has been dead for years and we should let it rest in peace. Just makes me wonder if you really REALLY have nothing better to do with your time than to write howto's about a car that nobody runs any more
Dudee!! shhhhhhhhh!! Be quiet be quiet!! I know I know I Know!! It doesn't matter right now. But you're suppose to back me up not to ruin the mission. We have to keep on the mission until complete! Focus Focus and stay on the target. Just look and don't say anything. 10-4 lol

Last edited by Z24; 08-02-2011 at 06:24 PM.
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Old 08-02-2011, 06:23 PM   #524
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Well, lets continue. Here's another pic how the Main Belt passes under the spacers from the engine.
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Old 08-02-2011, 07:24 PM   #525
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Are we done and finished? uum Nope not yet! You wonder on the previews posts that I made and says why you can't expose more than 1 thread on the clutch nut adjuster. Well because after some test drive this 3 this happens! Sorry, It was unexpected to me too. This 3 parts got damage by the great force of the SPM clutch(Centax wannabe)

1. The diff screw got torn apart in two pieces.
2. The 1st Speed One Way Hub just unglued it self from the hub case.
3. The Layshaft pulley internal pin got broke in two pieces.

And you ask your self. Will I keep going to deal with more problems that I had with this extinct dinosaur piece of crap? I'll just go away and use my newer model and all my problems are gone.

You know, you're right! Well then go ahead and do it. Otherwise just stay a little bit because there always a solution for everything.

That's why Schumacher suspended this car. The thing is... that I don't understand is why revive the M1 electric car if is the same old Mission from almost more than 10 years. And is the same chassis as the R12, only with nitro engine. So it still lives, only with a different name. And heard they have similar problems.


Last edited by Z24; 08-02-2011 at 07:36 PM.
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