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Old 07-19-2011, 10:57 PM   #496
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Smile

And to mention. I was using an old layshaft with used wear out pulley. And nothing happened. So.. Is not the stones, like it was once told before.

Last edited by Z24; 07-20-2011 at 11:15 PM.
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Old 07-20-2011, 12:23 AM   #497
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I'm simulating the problem what really happens to the rear belt cause of the Main Belt. You'll hardly notice but as you see, the main belt pulls back a little bit the diff and points it the to left front angle direction, and there you see just a little bit, how's the rear belt get's twisted or tilted because of the main belt tightness. If this theory is true, that's the cause of the R12's REAR Belt nightmare, and then this is when your race is over. Just do it for your self and you're understand. Just make sure to not feel some resistance on the main belt when you install your diffs on the diff mounts. It needs to be loose.


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Old 07-20-2011, 12:25 AM   #498
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And this how's should look in a normal way. All in a strait line. Just compare the rear belt with the other picture.


Last edited by Z24; 07-22-2011 at 11:51 PM.
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Old 07-20-2011, 12:26 AM   #499
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The layshaft pulley all wear out, that didn't affect the rear belt.


Last edited by Z24; 07-20-2011 at 11:14 PM.
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Old 07-20-2011, 12:27 AM   #500
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When using the CNC rear diff pulley, it solved from 85% to 95% of the problem. So..this is a most.

Last edited by Z24; 07-22-2011 at 11:52 PM.
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Old 07-24-2011, 11:47 AM   #501
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Belt replacement for now: Tough Racing TRTB144 direct replace belt for HPI Nitro RS4. This belt can use for the rear pulley and the layshaft of the R12, it measure 5.5mm. I'm in the process to make a special order that measure 6mm and would be the direct replacement for the Rear R12 belt. I'll let you know when this happens. They are kevlar belt's made in japan and distributed in South Korea. They seemed quite tough for a cheap price, already test it out and did a pretty good job.

I'm too in the process to replace the main belt. But have to stay with the stock one for now. Let you know in the future. He are some pics.
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Old 07-24-2011, 11:50 AM   #502
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Old 07-28-2011, 04:32 PM   #503
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wow thread is still alive!!
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Old 07-28-2011, 08:38 PM   #504
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcos.J View Post
wow thread is still alive!!
LoL! I think I'm the only one in the world who's making this thread A live I think hahaha. Right now it doesn't matter if this tread is dead or alive, I'm trying just to resolve some unfinished business issues from this car once and for all. It's a dirty job, but some one gotta do it. This car still has some room for upgrades, but we have to do it on our own. And I know some people still has this car around and would like to at least run it at front of their house. But of the problems and issues this car has they just surrender. You have to check out the clutch man. There's finally a Centax type clutch for this car dude and it rocks, well it was always there, we just didn't do to much research though. I just couldn't believe my eyes this car can still hang there with the new generation nitro touring cars around. The only thing is, that even the slowest car pass me. I was out of pace, I was kind of rusty LoL. It doesn't matter, couple of practice and I'm back again like the old days. Just stay tuned for later updates.

Man!!! where have you been?? I've been looking for you since last year and you disappear all of a sudden.

Last edited by Z24; 07-29-2011 at 09:04 PM.
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Old 07-28-2011, 10:27 PM   #505
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Default SPM Racing Clutch

Here's the link from I get the information of the spm clutch. But these are my next step updates with more pictures on this tread.


http://forum.racing-cars.com/forum_p...-racing-clutch

Last edited by Z24; 07-30-2011 at 12:46 AM.
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Old 07-29-2011, 08:33 PM   #506
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Last but not least. And I think this have been discuss before. Remove the lower bearings from the Main Belt Tension. This keeps the Main Belt very loose and makes you're rear belt very happy.




Last edited by Z24; 07-31-2011 at 09:17 AM.
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Old 07-29-2011, 09:37 PM   #507
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Second issue: Diff fences snapping, slops, etc.

Cause Theory: Main Belt tightness pulls back and twist the Rear Diff Pulley, then the Main Belt push outwards the diff fence until it snaps out.

Possible solution: Put the MAIN BELT tension as loosest possible without jumping. And make sure and check the Rear Diff that the Main Belt doesn't make more pressure than the Rear Belt. Both Belts most be equally even when you put the Rear Diff to the Diff Mounts. Use and put Epoxy on both sides of the fences of the diff so they won't snap out. For the CNC's pulleys fences, there might not be a chance to use epoxy on them because they are so tight that they won't come out so easy, already test it.

Use some piece of aluminum paper on the upper side of the diff ball bearing mount to eliminate the DIFF slop or play. I've heard people to use other techniques to resolve the same slop issue. Like using paper underneath the diff ball bearing mount and other shimming the diff outputs, they all resolve the same slop issue.

Money Solution: Rear CNC Diff Pulley U2745 and for the front pulley U2746. Puts all the belts pressure out once and for all. Drive-train super loose. Pulley fences are very tight they wont snap out. They still needs to use aluminum paper, normal paper or shimming the diff output to resolve the slop issue.
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Old 07-29-2011, 09:53 PM   #508
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Here are the two Diffs front and rear with CNC white pulleys. I just installed the front CNC pulley, but I haven't test it yet. But you can start with the rear pulley for now and most of the pain will be gone.

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Old 07-29-2011, 09:58 PM   #509
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Here you can see the difference of the position of the diff balls of both types of diff pulleys.

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Old 07-29-2011, 10:01 PM   #510
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Here's the part when you put epoxy glue if you have the old diff pulleys with the metal fence.

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