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Old 04-20-2003, 11:46 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally posted by compuatic
i thought O.S were supposed to be some of the easiest engines to tune! if anyone wants to become a pro at tunning an engine, go grab a trx .15 and tune it hehe. youll become a pro guaranteed. no joke
its actually mostly there carbs, that are easy to tune
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Old 04-20-2003, 11:51 PM   #47
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yep, the carbs
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Old 04-21-2003, 08:33 AM   #48
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Punisher, you need to learn some manners. Didn't your mommy and daddy take your computer away last time you got an additude like that?

If you were referring to the "kid" who said to buy a pro car for bashing, then you were to replying to every post because all we all recommended cars that can be considered "PRO".

My point is that if he's going to bash and maybe race in the future, get a car that will be a little less frustrating. The NTC3 has better instructions and is better for bashing while it can hang in a race.

If your going to reply to this post how about trying to make an intelligent response or is that above you?
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Old 04-21-2003, 01:37 PM   #49
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where can i get the hardcoated factory team chassis online?
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Old 04-21-2003, 01:40 PM   #50
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wat about the new ofna? wat u guys think of dat?
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Old 04-21-2003, 08:53 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally posted by me43
i think ur looking at the MRX-3 1/8th scale car
this is what i was checking out:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDWB8&P=7
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Old 04-21-2003, 09:35 PM   #52
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First of all yes the mugen or the serpent are probably the fastest cars on the straight... but if speed was all that matters you wouldn't be seeing Indy cars (im talking about real cars...) that can go zero to 100 in a few seconds... you would see cars that take a minute or to to get up to a higher top speed... You wan a car that can deliver the horsepower and torque to the wheels as fast as possible... and shaft is far more effective... thus the ntc3 gives far more responsive throtle and acceleration... and handling is mainly dependant on the surface and the settings... belts may be lighter and offer a little bit more to modify but they do sacrifice some acceleration no mater what anyone say... besides the fact that shaft is much simple and requires far less work... but when or go from idle to full throtle with a belt hands down its gonna slip some as the tensors(whatever the things that keep the belts tight) will losen cause if it didnt it would just stress out the belt... Belts just give your more to go wrong... and the only major problem can be repaired with 5 dollars in parts as all you need are 4 long screws (cant remember if they are 1 1/2 inch or 1 1/4 inch but i know they are 4-40...) and 4 washers, any one at the track that has an NTC3 can show you what to do...

As for the RTR dont waste the money... i know it cost a bit more but its worth the money... i got the rtr in december and im selling it cause even though i did most of the upgrades i found it cheaper to get kits... for the moment i have 2 kits and 1 rtr that im selling since i no longer need it... Get the kit, i would choose the mt-12 engine it is low cost (140 at http://www.ultimatehobbies.com )and very good... just stick with the stock pipe till you really need the improvement...a good cheap radio would be something like an fm mx-3 which you can use one of the standard servos for throtle but for steering you need a metal gear one... and thats all you should need to start... o and a set of foams... never race rubbers... ewww... they just suck... Im asking 300 for my car for now but will consider lower offers... http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...threadid=16200 if your interested... good for a begginer as it includes engine but has all you need to get a rearexhast engine in it minus the engine itself... only major things that i would get would be a decent radio and of course some foams... (i would throw away the rtr radio...) and then at somepoint you should get threaded shocks... you wont need cvds for a while... it already has the twospeed... click the link for all the info... sorry to those of you who actually read all of this...
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Old 04-21-2003, 10:22 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally posted by alucard13
this is what i was checking out:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDWB8&P=7
dam

thats way over priced

i think thats the list price
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Old 04-22-2003, 01:59 AM   #54
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i kno, wat r they thinkin!!!
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Old 04-22-2003, 02:34 AM   #55
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ImportRacer,
I personally think that the ntc3 is faster than belt cars on the straights, because that smooth drive train must be just, as or almost, as effective and smooth at the highest speeds as it is at during acceleration.


For me, the choice between the ntc3 and belted cars came to performance on my track. My track is tight, and people that I talked to said that they couldn't quite get the steering that they need to get around all of our tight 180 and 90 degree turns. They didn't 'rotate' as well as their belt cars and so I felt that a belted car woud probably be better for me.

I can see how this could be true, after Associated's powerful display during the Roar onroad gas nats and the World cup. But the Cinci track is very different than my home track and I feel that it wouldn't have worked out overall, quite as well for me as my MTX2 does.


Maybe the locals I asked didn't put enough time into their cars or had a personal vandetta (etc.), but these comments, durability complaints (alleged or more than just alleged), and my personal opinion drove me away from it. Maybe all of my info was wrong but I feel that the parts support, the amount of existing MTX2 users at the track (which might help me get up to speed), as well as what I felt was the best overall choice (as I got it used from a top local racer) made my decision to get an MTX2 easy.

And now after that rant, I would tell chchkboy5 that what he can locally (or easily) attain, get parts for, and works on his soon to be 'home track' is probably the best list that can gauge what is his best choice. In my mind that is what would make it easier to determine what car I would choose, but it could be different for others, I don't know.
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