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Old 03-20-2002, 07:05 PM   #1471
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had a similar problem with my Collari...


Double check your needle settings...

www.parisracing.com

has lots of information to setting Carbs...

Base settings for the Collari

Hi needle 4-5 turns out from bottom
Low Needle - 4-5.5 turns out from bottom...

Take note that the Paris site, recommends that the low speed needle should be set WHILE HOLDING THE CARB OPEN, or you might damage the fuel inlet to the carb.



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Old 03-20-2002, 07:13 PM   #1472
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Default Re: GOT A PROBLEM !!!!

Quote:
Originally posted by carpet_killa
hey guys, i am tring to start the breakin on my rbx12 and i am having the hardest time turning it over and now my new starter box quit. but the glow plug still gets the pug hot . its just the motors quit turning. help !!! any ideas.
i am talking about it fireing up. but now my starter box quit, and i can't figure out what is wrong...
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Old 03-20-2002, 07:28 PM   #1473
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Default Re: Re: GOT A PROBLEM !!!!

Quote:
Originally posted by carpet_killa


i am talking about it fireing up. but now my starter box quit, and i can't figure out what is wrong...

Is it one with the two 550 motors??

They go out at the best times

Get the single 12volt motor and all the troubles with go away.
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Old 03-20-2002, 07:32 PM   #1474
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Default Re: GOT A PROBLEM !!!!

Quote:
Originally posted by carpet_killa
hey guys, i am tring to start the breakin on my rbx12 and i am having the hardest time turning it over and now my new starter box quit. but the glow plug still gets the pug hot . its just the motors quit turning. help !!! any ideas.
As long as the engine is not hydro locked, here's what you can try:

1. if the starter box accept external 12V you can hook it up to
a car battery with the car engine running, this will provide the most current you can get.

2. If you are using the twin-540 type of starter, see if you can borrow the 12V motor type, that one has more torque.

3. Use hair dryer to heat up the engine, that may help
to loosen it a bit. I have seen people using a propane burner
to heat up the engine, but that's a bit too extreme for me.

Make sure you already have lubricant in the engine, after run oil will do, too. In the worst case I would loose the spark-plug a little bit, and let the engine turns on starter box for a few moment. That should help to start the engine when you tighten the spark plug again.

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Old 03-20-2002, 07:34 PM   #1475
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surelly the motors aren't gone already. this is the first time i put the car on the box....
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Old 03-20-2002, 07:37 PM   #1476
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Hi guys,

I am new to this forum so pardon me if this topic has already been addressed. I have had my MTX-2 for a year now (although we only get to race it during the summer due to the Canadian weather). I am getting my car ready for its second season and I just picked up a Centax Clutch kit. I have a thrust bearing on order but I had some other questions about the centax.

1. The pinions that came with it are 1 tooth higher than stock (16 --> 17 and 19 --> 20). Will I notice a significant difference on a medium-large sized track (back straight is approx. 120')? I was pretty happy with my acceleration and top speed last year.

2. Do you need the "Centax Adjustment Tool" that I have seen advertised or is there some other tool in my box that might do the job?

3. Any high-wear or weak parts that I should be buying spares for? We have pretty good LHS support but they will not have a lot of these bit parts in stock.

Thanks in advance,
Jeff
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Old 03-20-2002, 07:48 PM   #1477
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Hi Jeff:

For the first gear you can probably feel it coming out of the corner, but MT-12 has enough power and also you can adjust the centax
to have more punch. For the 2nd gear I don't think you will feel the diff.

It's good idea to have some front uprights and rear arms handy in the spare box. I haven't broken the upright since I use the wide bumper. A set of belts will be nice to have, too. I snap the front belt once, before I added the front tensioner. I have seen broken shock towers, but that's about it. MTX-2 is very well built.

Kev

Last edited by yokomoracer; 03-20-2002 at 07:50 PM.
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Old 03-20-2002, 08:15 PM   #1478
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Default re;

save your money. i use the snap ring pliers to tighten and loosen the nut. they work real well.



ok guys . i think i found the problem. i direct put power to the motors with the battery, and vroom. they both work. and i played with the push down contact and its fine. so i am believing it is the on and off switch....
has this happen to any one else?
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Old 03-20-2002, 10:40 PM   #1479
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Default starter switch

I had a problem once where my starter box (far from new however) wouldn't turn over. It turned out to be the push down switch making poor contact. Although it looked like there should have been good contact a check with my meter showed a poor connection. The switch needed to be completely disassembled and all contact points ground flat to restore a clean connection. You can check the switch with a dvm or anything that can check continuity - you want to rule the switch out first cause taking out the push down is a pain.
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Old 03-21-2002, 10:40 AM   #1480
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ok now i have major problem... the push down switch was the problem, so i fixed that . now after a couple bumps the engine still has not fired up and the push down switch has melted on one sides tab. what the hell is the deal !!!! i have never had probles like this before. i am getting fustrate now. this is the hardest .12 engine i have ever had to just fire up. any ideas and pointers accepted at this time. thanks, chris
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Old 03-21-2002, 12:29 PM   #1481
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Default Negative diff

will the negative diff work for rubber tyred cars?
and do you have any link for the sites that do hop up options?
like 5 star racing jack etc!!
Thank you all
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Old 03-21-2002, 12:38 PM   #1482
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Default Negative diff

will the negative diff work for rubber tyred cars?
and do you have any link for the sites that do hop up options?
like 5 star racing jack etc!!
Thank you all
also how do you guys set your droop and to what measurements?
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Old 03-21-2002, 01:10 PM   #1483
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getting engine to turn over ????

ok , i have the rb x12 5 port engine and i am having trouble starting this engine. when i put it on the starter box it maybe makes a rotation or 2 ,so i un loosen the glow plug a little and still same thing.it is like it is having the hardest time turningover this engine. it has been a while since i have fooled with nitro cars , but i didnt' have this problem before. my engine has mugens centax clutch on it and the nut is on approx 4 full turns .and the end bell is shimed .5mm like i was told to do. the starter box is fully charged and. i am puzzled on what to do to get the engine to turn over and fire up !!! Help me, please !!!

thanks ,chris
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Old 03-21-2002, 02:54 PM   #1484
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Default Re: getting engine to turn over ????

carpet_killa

This sounds like the classic "starter box without enough grunt" story. Many people (myself included,) find that a starter box with 540 motors does not have enough power to turn over the high compression race engines. I have had no problem with starter boxes that have the big 12V motor in them. Ofna and others make these boxes. I would suggest that you use one of those starter boxes. Guys have also suggested replacing the 540 motors with 19 turn or some other reasonably priced mod motors with bearings. I haven't tried them, but that sounds like it may work. It's probably cheaper to cut your losses and buy a box with the big 12V motor, though. They should be around $89 without battery.
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Old 03-21-2002, 02:58 PM   #1485
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Default Re: getting engine to turn over ????

Quote:
Originally posted by carpet_killa
ok , i have the rb x12 5 port engine and i am having trouble starting this engine. when i put it on the starter box it maybe makes a rotation or 2 ,so i un loosen the glow plug a little and still same thing.it is like it is having the hardest time turningover this engine. it has been a while since i have fooled with nitro cars , but i didnt' have this problem before. my engine has mugens centax clutch on it and the nut is on approx 4 full turns .and the end bell is shimed .5mm like i was told to do. the starter box is fully charged and. i am puzzled on what to do to get the engine to turn over and fire up !!! Help me, please !!!

thanks ,chris
The new generation ABC engines are very tight when new. It will loosen up after it is broken in.

Try using a liberal amount of after run oil. If you still can't get it to turn over on your box you can put the engine on a cordless drill, put in after run and use the drill to loosen up the engine ( make sure the drill turns the crank the correct way). Do about 15 minutes changing the after run about every 5 minutes and see if you box can now crank it over.

Is your box a 2 540 motor type box? Some won't have enough torque to crank these new engines over.

BTW Be glad its like this. It tells me that once broken in the engine will give you good power and will last longer (retain its compression) than ones that were loose to begin with.

The clutch should not affect the ability of the box to turnover the engine if the bell is freewheeling like it's suppose to when the engine is off.

BTW again, during break-in the piston/flywheel might get stuck between tanks. Make sure the piston is at the bottom (BDC) during cool downs.

Last edited by Sydewynder; 03-21-2002 at 03:10 PM.
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