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Old 11-30-2001, 12:46 PM   #736
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The lowest price I've found of the Novak receiver is $94.95 Sheldons Hobbies www.sheldonshobbies.com and Tower www.towerhobbies.com. Once you buy one and use it, you won't feel bad about replacing all your receivers with them. I found that they work best when stood on the side in electric cars. I've never had a glitch from one in a nitro car.
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Old 11-30-2001, 01:00 PM   #737
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Quote:
Originally posted by psycho
The lowest price I've found of the Novak receiver is $94.95 Sheldons Hobbies www.sheldonshobbies.com and Tower www.towerhobbies.com. Once you buy one and use it, you won't feel bad about replacing all your receivers with them. I found that they work best when stood on the side in electric cars. I've never had a glitch from one in a nitro car.
Thanks dude!
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Old 11-30-2001, 02:20 PM   #738
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Default Xtals

Ya might want to try talking to Eric V. at Castle... he told me what Xtals are compatible, but that was a while ago......


I use to have a KO MArs, and used JR Xtals on it with a Tekin or NOvak reciever... it worked but some how I got major glitches when a guy rans 40band... and in-between channels like 70.5 or something like that... I fixed the problem by selling that radio and grabbing an R1, which I already had a ton of xtals from my 756.


LOL!


Rich


Ah10.... still no response from Otis... I'll try again
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Old 11-30-2001, 02:54 PM   #739
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Default Re: Xtals

Quote:
Originally posted by Hard Jokur
Ya might want to try talking to Eric V. at Castle... he told me what Xtals are compatible, but that was a while ago......


I use to have a KO MArs, and used JR Xtals on it with a Tekin or NOvak reciever... it worked but some how I got major glitches when a guy rans 40band... and in-between channels like 70.5 or something like that... I fixed the problem by selling that radio and grabbing an R1, which I already had a ton of xtals from my 756.


LOL!


Rich


Ah10.... still no response from Otis... I'll try again
Thanks for asking dude, hope he would let go cheap!

Sent you a private message!
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Old 11-30-2001, 04:15 PM   #740
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Default Kawahara diff....

Is this diff available yet.... I've been lookin on the speedtechrc site but it's not listed... Where ya guyz getting the Diff from??


and what's the damage $$$


Thanks

Rich


OOPS forgot to ask:

I have a sepent starter box... for my Implact, UH do they make a chassis adapter for this box, or do I have to make one?


Thanks again
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Last edited by RAP66; 11-30-2001 at 04:17 PM.
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Old 11-30-2001, 05:36 PM   #741
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Default Re: Kawahara diff....

Quote:
Originally posted by Hard Jokur
Is this diff available yet.... I've been lookin on the speedtechrc site but it's not listed... Where ya guyz getting the Diff from??


and what's the damage $$$


Thanks

Rich


OOPS forgot to ask:

I have a sepent starter box... for my Implact, UH do they make a chassis adapter for this box, or do I have to make one?


Thanks again
ACE Hobby has the Kawahara Clutch Diff in Stock!
Click Here to order from ACE Hobbies.

My friend in Hong Kong got it for me! I dont remember how much exactly because he got me a bunch of stuff too, but I am guessing around $600HK, $78us or so!

If you have one bill to spare I strongly suggest you to get it and the front oneway too! it works really good as a combo!

Hope this help!
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Old 11-30-2001, 06:58 PM   #742
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Hmm ACE huh?? not far from home!!!


ROADTRIP!!!!


LOL


Rich
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Old 12-01-2001, 04:28 PM   #743
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Took a few more pictures of my MTX-2, I have just put some Light Blue Springs.

Kawahara Clutch Diff

Mugen Front Oneway

Side View


Going to go to Revelation on Tuesday to test the Kawahara Clutch diff and Mugen Front Oneway with the combination of:

Yokomo ST-A261F Front Tire
Yokomo ST-A321H Rear Tire
Centex Clutch
Front 0.5 degree Camber
Front 0 degree Toe
Rear 2 degree Camber
Rear 2 degree Toe
Track Width Front: 197mm Rear:199mm
Ride Height: Front 4mm Rear 6mm
Rear Sway Bar


Oh one more thing, I am using Penguin rear shock tower, but if you pay attention to the first image,(Kawahara Clutch Diff), I use the lowest setting hole for the rear shock as the camber linkage. By doing this it allows longer camber linkage to match up with the lower A-arm, As you all know the closest length difference between the upper linkage and lower A-arm, the less camber changes that will be when spring is compressed. I am trying to eliminate body roll and suspension geometry changes when doing hard cornoring as much as possible. Hope it will work! Will update you guys next week!

Hope I will have a good day on Tuesday and I will try to post as detail as possible on different setting of the car!

Welcome any suggestion on car setting to make it run better! Thanks

Last edited by Ah10; 12-01-2001 at 06:51 PM.
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Old 12-01-2001, 05:40 PM   #744
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Ah 10,

Are you going to race at Revelation's Race next Sat the 8th?
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Old 12-01-2001, 06:49 PM   #745
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Quote:
Originally posted by AsphaltAssasin
Ah 10,

Are you going to race at Revelation's Race next Sat the 8th?
I dont know but probably not, need to spare sometime with my wife! But I am going next Tuesday to test the car some more!
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Old 12-01-2001, 06:59 PM   #746
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Default Big Problem - Need Help!

I just got the prospec w/Mt12.

After one tank of breaking it in, I attemted to start up another tank but piston seems to have jammed at just below when it reaches the top of the barrel. My starter cant turn it over, and i tried everthing else with no luck.

Took the engine off the car and tried to turn it over manually but it wont budge. I took the engine apart and tried every way to free the bind but cant figure out what to do.

Please help with any suggestions, or if anyone has had to return engine back to mugen please post where to send.

This is extremely frustrating.

Last edited by Pek; 12-01-2001 at 07:04 PM.
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Old 12-01-2001, 08:43 PM   #747
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Default Re: Big Problem - Need Help!

Pek

Don't worry man! Sounds like you're ready to blow a gasket! This is common with high compression engines. The easiest way to get back running again is to take the engine out and try to turn the piston back over by hand. If it's really jammed in there, you might have to take the Channel Locks to it, but you should be able to rotate the flywheel by hand. It may help if you remove the glow plug. Once you have it free, put a few drops of after run oil into the exhaust port and work it around a bit. If you don't have after run oil, use 3 in 1 oil or some petrolium based oil. Reinstall the engine and you should be in business. If this keeps happening, throw away your pos starter box with the 540 motors and get one with the big 12V motor. Ofna makes one and there are others as well. They should be around $90 without the battery. 12V gelcell batteries are around $25 with the charger. That will cause you the least amount of grief. Once the engine get more broken in, you shouldn't have this problem any more. You may have to start it with the glowplug loose until it is broken in. Take it nice and easy while you're breaking in the engine and it will last you a long time. I just retired an MT12 that had at least 5 gallons through it.
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Old 12-01-2001, 11:05 PM   #748
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Hey Pek, I had the same problem.
What I did was, loosen the glow plug, and use a hair dryer on the head of the engine until it got warm/hot, then I put it back on the starter box, and it started up. I had to do this for a long time until the engine broke in.
good luck
Don't worry, there's nothing wrong with your engine.
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Old 12-02-2001, 03:10 PM   #749
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Quote:
Originally posted by AsphaltAssasin
Ah 10,

Are you going to race at Revelation's Race next Sat the 8th?
Hey, AsphaltAssian, are you going to race at Revelation on the 8th? if you are then I might swing by to meet you!
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Old 12-02-2001, 05:31 PM   #750
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Somebody was talking about their "hybrid". Check this out: an Impulse with a Kyosho 4 stroke, Mugen Centax, Mugen 2 speed, and Yokomo gears. That thing is awesome!!!!!!!!!!!!. A friend has it, but he had to have a couple of parts custom machined.

Has anyone run the delrin front hubs yet? Are they more durable than the plastic ones?

Also, I run the Novak XXtra shrinkwrapped in my MTX-2 also. I just cut out a slot big enough to put a small screw driver in to change frequencies. The shrinkwrap is tight enough that no dirt gets in even with the slots cut in it. No more crystals, no more worry about dirt, and no more worry about fuel in the receiver!!!
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