Mugen MTX-2
09-30-2001, 10:29 PM
#61
Ok but you would have to take note when you first pinch the line right? When it runs out of fuel, the revs go up regardless, right? What about the 3 second rule?
I usually warm up the car and run it. Bring it back and see if the the idle drops after a couple of seconds of sitting. If it does then the lowend is rich. Adjust till the idle doesn't drop anymore after a high speed run, then adjust the idle speed screw. Does this accomplish the same thing as the pinch test? Thanks again.
I usually warm up the car and run it. Bring it back and see if the the idle drops after a couple of seconds of sitting. If it does then the lowend is rich. Adjust till the idle doesn't drop anymore after a high speed run, then adjust the idle speed screw. Does this accomplish the same thing as the pinch test? Thanks again.
10-01-2001, 09:48 AM
#62
Sydewynder
I started off tuning my engines they way you describe. In fact, I think I remember reading to tune it that way on Novarossi's webpage. The problem I had with that method was that I never really had the engine tuned, even though what I heard matched the description on those instructions. My problem was that after 20 or 30 seconds of idling or light blips of the throttle, the engine would load up with fuel and flame out 10 or 15 seconds after I jumped on the throttle. You want to always run a little rich on the low end and high end, but not so rich that performance suffers or you load up and flame out like was happening to me.
I haven't noticed that the amount of time is really significant. You should try to pinch the line as close to the carb as possible so you don't have to wait as long for it to run out of fuel. Once the engine dies, you change your needle setting and start it back up. You should run it under race type conditions to make sure it is at normal operating temp and to clear the crankcase of any previous mixture. Depending on how far away from tuned the engine is, you may have to repeat this process a few times to get it right. If the low end mixture is perfectly tuned or too lean, the revs will not go up. The engine will simply die out. As you lean out the mixture, you will reach a point where performance doesn't change no matter how much you lean it out. It's not like richening up the mixture where performance continues to degrade until the engine won't run at all. I don't like to try to get the low end too lean because as you lean out the high end, you also lean out the low end. If you run a little rich on the low end, you'll always be ok as you change the high end mixture. It's probably not a bad idea to check the low end again once you have the high end set, as well.
I started off tuning my engines they way you describe. In fact, I think I remember reading to tune it that way on Novarossi's webpage. The problem I had with that method was that I never really had the engine tuned, even though what I heard matched the description on those instructions. My problem was that after 20 or 30 seconds of idling or light blips of the throttle, the engine would load up with fuel and flame out 10 or 15 seconds after I jumped on the throttle. You want to always run a little rich on the low end and high end, but not so rich that performance suffers or you load up and flame out like was happening to me.
I haven't noticed that the amount of time is really significant. You should try to pinch the line as close to the carb as possible so you don't have to wait as long for it to run out of fuel. Once the engine dies, you change your needle setting and start it back up. You should run it under race type conditions to make sure it is at normal operating temp and to clear the crankcase of any previous mixture. Depending on how far away from tuned the engine is, you may have to repeat this process a few times to get it right. If the low end mixture is perfectly tuned or too lean, the revs will not go up. The engine will simply die out. As you lean out the mixture, you will reach a point where performance doesn't change no matter how much you lean it out. It's not like richening up the mixture where performance continues to degrade until the engine won't run at all. I don't like to try to get the low end too lean because as you lean out the high end, you also lean out the low end. If you run a little rich on the low end, you'll always be ok as you change the high end mixture. It's probably not a bad idea to check the low end again once you have the high end set, as well.
10-04-2001, 02:16 AM
#64
Hello Novarossi!!
I see you found some of us orphans. LOL
I see you found some of us orphans. LOL
10-04-2001, 02:35 AM
#66
Shh I'm trying to keep people like pyscho and manticore (Moon) from knowing.
Darn. Now I have to change my handle.
LOLUmm Frank McKinney lurks here so I hope he don't do something to you for that high tech comment. LOL
I'm using a solid rear with a front oneway. What would you like to know?
Last edited by Sydewynder; 10-04-2001 at 02:39 AM.
10-04-2001, 02:58 AM
#67
Tell me more, tell me more
W Fok (sorry but Im used to calling you that ), are you using the Kawahara Solid rear?
What are the handling difference you noticed when used with a front one way.
Here is my problem, I ran a Pro and noticed huge understeer and had to change my driving style dramatically (30,000wt/one way)
Im hoping the solid rear would allow for more braking to be used (compared to a rear diff/one way) and greater steering.
What do you think?
When using the front one way, what difference did u notice when switching from the rear diff, to the solid rear?
Thanks
NR
PS - Is Moon here??????
What are the handling difference you noticed when used with a front one way.
Here is my problem, I ran a Pro and noticed huge understeer and had to change my driving style dramatically (30,000wt/one way)
Im hoping the solid rear would allow for more braking to be used (compared to a rear diff/one way) and greater steering.
What do you think?
When using the front one way, what difference did u notice when switching from the rear diff, to the solid rear?
Thanks
NR
PS - Is Moon here??????
10-04-2001, 03:42 AM
#68
That's OK Tekresq already blew my cover. LOL
I'm using a Hashimoto Racing solid rear.
To me the solid rear made the rear loose(r) under power. I had to run more neg rear camber to tame the tail wagging getting on the throttle coming out of a turn.
If you are thinking that it will allow you to have more braking to compensate for the front oneway, I doubt it will. I can still loop the car around on hard braking. What I'm doing is using ABS on our 3PJS and using very little brakes.
I don't have understeer with this setup except in a small window where the throttle is constant. Stab the throttle or let go of it and the car tightens up. There is actually a lot of steering if I get off the throttle and coast through a turn.
I'm assuming that with your understeer and 30,000 wt rear oil, your track is highbite?
Try using 50,000 in the back.
I'm running
Light blue springs F/R
Stock pistons and oil F/R
0 toe in front
Neg. 2 toe in rear
Neg 2 camber front
Neg 3 camber rear
Zac project foams, 40 front, 35 rear
Big clip in rear of upper front arm for caster
4.5mm ride height front
5mm ride height rear
Front swaybar softest setting
No rear swaybar
Equivalent to lower spot on upper front shock mount (different than stock shock tower)
Equivalent to middle spot on upper rear shock mount (different than stock shock tower)
Stock rear link inner and outer positions (will change this)
With this setup I still getting a little too much rear roll.
Yes Moon in Manticore
I'm using a Hashimoto Racing solid rear.
To me the solid rear made the rear loose(r) under power. I had to run more neg rear camber to tame the tail wagging getting on the throttle coming out of a turn.
If you are thinking that it will allow you to have more braking to compensate for the front oneway, I doubt it will. I can still loop the car around on hard braking. What I'm doing is using ABS on our 3PJS and using very little brakes.
I don't have understeer with this setup except in a small window where the throttle is constant. Stab the throttle or let go of it and the car tightens up. There is actually a lot of steering if I get off the throttle and coast through a turn.
I'm assuming that with your understeer and 30,000 wt rear oil, your track is highbite?
Try using 50,000 in the back.
I'm running
Light blue springs F/R
Stock pistons and oil F/R
0 toe in front
Neg. 2 toe in rear
Neg 2 camber front
Neg 3 camber rear
Zac project foams, 40 front, 35 rear
Big clip in rear of upper front arm for caster
4.5mm ride height front
5mm ride height rear
Front swaybar softest setting
No rear swaybar
Equivalent to lower spot on upper front shock mount (different than stock shock tower)
Equivalent to middle spot on upper rear shock mount (different than stock shock tower)
Stock rear link inner and outer positions (will change this)
With this setup I still getting a little too much rear roll.
Yes Moon in Manticore
10-04-2001, 04:49 AM
#69
Originally posted by Sydewynder
That's OK Tekresq already blew my cover. LOL
I'm using a Hashimoto Racing solid rear.
To me the solid rear made the rear loose(r) under power. I had to run more neg rear camber to tame the tail wagging getting on the throttle coming out of a turn.
If you are thinking that it will allow you to have more braking to compensate for the front oneway, I doubt it will. I can still loop the car around on hard braking. What I'm doing is using ABS on our 3PJS and using very little brakes.
I don't have understeer with this setup except in a small window where the throttle is constant. Stab the throttle or let go of it and the car tightens up. There is actually a lot of steering if I get off the throttle and coast through a turn.
I'm assuming that with your understeer and 30,000 wt rear oil, your track is highbite?
Try using 50,000 in the back.
I'm running
Light blue springs F/R
Stock pistons and oil F/R
0 toe in front
Neg. 2 toe in rear
Neg 2 camber front
Neg 3 camber rear
Zac project foams, 40 front, 35 rear
Big clip in rear of upper front arm for caster
4.5mm ride height front
5mm ride height rear
Front swaybar softest setting
No rear swaybar
Equivalent to lower spot on upper front shock mount (different than stock shock tower)
Equivalent to middle spot on upper rear shock mount (different than stock shock tower)
Stock rear link inner and outer positions (will change this)
With this setup I still getting a little too much rear roll.
Yes Moon in Manticore
That's OK Tekresq already blew my cover. LOL
I'm using a Hashimoto Racing solid rear.
To me the solid rear made the rear loose(r) under power. I had to run more neg rear camber to tame the tail wagging getting on the throttle coming out of a turn.
If you are thinking that it will allow you to have more braking to compensate for the front oneway, I doubt it will. I can still loop the car around on hard braking. What I'm doing is using ABS on our 3PJS and using very little brakes.
I don't have understeer with this setup except in a small window where the throttle is constant. Stab the throttle or let go of it and the car tightens up. There is actually a lot of steering if I get off the throttle and coast through a turn.
I'm assuming that with your understeer and 30,000 wt rear oil, your track is highbite?
Try using 50,000 in the back.
I'm running
Light blue springs F/R
Stock pistons and oil F/R
0 toe in front
Neg. 2 toe in rear
Neg 2 camber front
Neg 3 camber rear
Zac project foams, 40 front, 35 rear
Big clip in rear of upper front arm for caster
4.5mm ride height front
5mm ride height rear
Front swaybar softest setting
No rear swaybar
Equivalent to lower spot on upper front shock mount (different than stock shock tower)
Equivalent to middle spot on upper rear shock mount (different than stock shock tower)
Stock rear link inner and outer positions (will change this)
With this setup I still getting a little too much rear roll.
Yes Moon in Manticore
Michael, you are here finally.
I run on a kawahara rear self adjustable diff and it is great.
The diff will run looser during slow speed and will graduately lock up under high speed(high rpm).
10-04-2001, 05:03 AM
#70
kawahara rear self adjustable diff????
Hey Moon,
what is a kawahara rear self adjustable diff. I take it allows you to change diff action without changing diff oil (similar to ball diffs) Is this right?
My problem is, I believe I have gone as fast as I can on our home track. Im consistently running close to my best time (which is still 0.4sec off the track record) with different engines (MT-12, RS-12)
Thats why Im after some hop-ups, to hopefully improve the handling of the car, which will result in quicker times. We here in Australia don't get anywhere close to seeing hop-ups.
Anyone have any suggestions on how to go quicker. I've tried different driving lines, run a RS-12T with RB polished pipe, all the mugen hop-ups. Speed wise, the car is excellent. Sometimes, I feel that Im giving 110% and still not improving any further.
Our version of a MTX hop-up is a change in lexan body
what is a kawahara rear self adjustable diff. I take it allows you to change diff action without changing diff oil (similar to ball diffs) Is this right?
My problem is, I believe I have gone as fast as I can on our home track. Im consistently running close to my best time (which is still 0.4sec off the track record) with different engines (MT-12, RS-12)
Thats why Im after some hop-ups, to hopefully improve the handling of the car, which will result in quicker times. We here in Australia don't get anywhere close to seeing hop-ups.
Anyone have any suggestions on how to go quicker. I've tried different driving lines, run a RS-12T with RB polished pipe, all the mugen hop-ups. Speed wise, the car is excellent. Sometimes, I feel that Im giving 110% and still not improving any further.
Our version of a MTX hop-up is a change in lexan body
Last edited by Michael_T; 10-04-2001 at 05:54 AM.
10-04-2001, 06:17 AM
#72
Originally posted by Novarossi
oh, and BTW Ah10, any reason why u run slick tyres on one side of your car and treaded on the other???
oh, and BTW Ah10, any reason why u run slick tyres on one side of your car and treaded on the other???
10-04-2001, 06:19 AM
#73
Re: kawahara rear self adjustable diff????
Originally posted by Novarossi
Hey Moon,
what is a kawahara rear self adjustable diff. I take it allows you to change diff action without changing diff oil (similar to ball diffs) Is this right?
My problem is, I believe I have gone as fast as I can on our home track. Im consistently running close to my best time (which is still 0.4sec off the track record) with different engines (MT-12, RS-12)
Thats why Im after some hop-ups, to hopefully improve the handling of the car, which will result in quicker times. We here in Australia don't get anywhere close to seeing hop-ups.
Anyone have any suggestions on how to go quicker. I've tried different driving lines, run a RS-12T with RB polished pipe, all the mugen hop-ups. Speed wise, the car is excellent. Sometimes, I feel that Im giving 110% and still not improving any further.
Our version of a MTX hop-up is a change in lexan body
Hey Moon,
what is a kawahara rear self adjustable diff. I take it allows you to change diff action without changing diff oil (similar to ball diffs) Is this right?
My problem is, I believe I have gone as fast as I can on our home track. Im consistently running close to my best time (which is still 0.4sec off the track record) with different engines (MT-12, RS-12)
Thats why Im after some hop-ups, to hopefully improve the handling of the car, which will result in quicker times. We here in Australia don't get anywhere close to seeing hop-ups.
Anyone have any suggestions on how to go quicker. I've tried different driving lines, run a RS-12T with RB polished pipe, all the mugen hop-ups. Speed wise, the car is excellent. Sometimes, I feel that Im giving 110% and still not improving any further.
Our version of a MTX hop-up is a change in lexan body
10-04-2001, 06:25 AM
#74
Re: Re: kawahara rear self adjustable diff????
Originally posted by Manticore
Well, the kawahara diff has a mini clutch inside the diff and under slow rev it will have maximum diff function but under high rev the diff action will be limited. you might call this LSD but not actually the same purpose.
Well, the kawahara diff has a mini clutch inside the diff and under slow rev it will have maximum diff function but under high rev the diff action will be limited. you might call this LSD but not actually the same purpose.
10-04-2001, 06:26 AM
#75
Re: Re: Re: kawahara rear self adjustable diff????
Originally posted by Novarossi
Once again Anthony, u have managed to completely confuse me with you tech knowledge. Maybe thats why they don't offer us aussie's hop-ups down here
Once again Anthony, u have managed to completely confuse me with you tech knowledge. Maybe thats why they don't offer us aussie's hop-ups down here
