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Old 09-14-2001, 12:39 PM   #46
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anybody have a good setup for asphalt, medium traction for rubber tires?

I just switched back from foam to rubber. I am just not good enough to keep those foams off the walls!!!
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Old 09-14-2001, 08:15 PM   #47
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I dont have a rear wing on the body. It is a LOLA !
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Old 09-28-2001, 01:01 AM   #48
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Arrow MTX-2 Pro Spec hopups

Hey Everyone,

Great site here. Nice to see alot of support from members of the RC community. I've got a Mugen MTX-2 Pro Spec and want to hook it up even more. Thus far, I've already added:

- beefier GS racing servo horns
- front universals
- motor saver filter

My set up is quite basic. I usually just run around on a quiet cul-de-sac across the street from my house - it's asphalt but it's quite clean and relatively debris-free. I do want to try out a 'real' track sometime soon, but this is all I've got for now. I use some 26mm Yokomo mesh tires and HPI X-pattern rubbers. Using the light blue springs, front one way, and rear diff. w/ the oil that came w/ the Pro Spec kit (I forget the rating). TX is a JR Racing XR3, and JR Z250 servos.

I'm noticing that it'll start sliding when I'm in speed and attempt a sharp turn. What do you think?

Oh, I'm also contemplating a HUDY set up system.

What hop ups do you reccommend? I'd like to extract the best performance out of this TC, which BTW I think is EXCELLENT.

Thanks for the help,

Ryan
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Old 09-28-2001, 01:49 AM   #49
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Default Re: MTX-2 Pro Spec hopups

Quote:
Originally posted by ryan
Hey Everyone,

Great site here. Nice to see alot of support from members of the RC community. I've got a Mugen MTX-2 Pro Spec and want to hook it up even more. Thus far, I've already added:

- beefier GS racing servo horns
- front universals
- motor saver filter

My set up is quite basic. I usually just run around on a quiet cul-de-sac across the street from my house - it's asphalt but it's quite clean and relatively debris-free. I do want to try out a 'real' track sometime soon, but this is all I've got for now. I use some 26mm Yokomo mesh tires and HPI X-pattern rubbers. Using the light blue springs, front one way, and rear diff. w/ the oil that came w/ the Pro Spec kit (I forget the rating). TX is a JR Racing XR3, and JR Z250 servos.

I'm noticing that it'll start sliding when I'm in speed and attempt a sharp turn. What do you think?

Oh, I'm also contemplating a HUDY set up system.

What hop ups do you reccommend? I'd like to extract the best performance out of this TC, which BTW I think is EXCELLENT.

Thanks for the help,

Ryan
Use purple springs all round. set longest camber link in the rear. what diff oil you use?? you should use not more then 10000WT diff oil when you have a front oneway.

try to use softer front shock oil cuz it's one hole piston.

I have 30WT in front and 35WT in rear.
If the track surface you are running your car, try to low down your chassis as low as possible. I have no more then 4mm ground clearence on my local track here.
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Old 09-28-2001, 10:20 AM   #50
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Default Re: MTX-2 Pro Spec hopups

ryan

If you want your chance to run on a "real track," come on down to the Castle Classic this Sat (for practice) and Sun (for the race.) Here's the flyer and info.
http://www.castlehobbies.com/Page.cfm?InfoID=1673

Rumors are swirling around as to who will be there, but many of the top drivers in CA and the US are planning on attending. Should be a fun one. I'll be running my MTX2 in the open class.
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Old 09-29-2001, 04:49 PM   #51
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Thanks for the help.

So I bought the purple front and rear springs (rated 1.6) and some 30 shock oil for the front. Oh I also bought a Du-Bro fuel filter, MIP onboard temp gauge, and a NiMH battery pack for the receiver. It's all coming together quite nicely.

Okay, so on the MT12, what is the 'ideal' temperature I should be running at? I figure w/ the temperature gauge I have now, I can tune it more precisely and not have to base richness/lean-ness on smoke trails or bubbly sounds. Anyone have some ideas of ideal temperature ranges?

Thanks, your thoughts and comments are always appreciated.
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Old 09-29-2001, 07:21 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally posted by ryan
Thanks for the help.

So I bought the purple front and rear springs (rated 1.6) and some 30 shock oil for the front. Oh I also bought a Du-Bro fuel filter, MIP onboard temp gauge, and a NiMH battery pack for the receiver. It's all coming together quite nicely.

Okay, so on the MT12, what is the 'ideal' temperature I should be running at? I figure w/ the temperature gauge I have now, I can tune it more precisely and not have to base richness/lean-ness on smoke trails or bubbly sounds. Anyone have some ideas of ideal temperature ranges?

Thanks, your thoughts and comments are always appreciated.
a lot of people were telling 250'F is the best temp. I also run my engine at this temp and it works fine.
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Old 09-29-2001, 09:31 PM   #53
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ryan

The easiest way to tune the engine is to do the following:

Tune the low speed first.

Start the engine and run a few laps to get it up to operating temp. You never want to tune a cold engine. Once it's warmed up, pinch the fuel line just ahead of the nozzle on the carb. What you want to listen for is the way it dies. If it speeds up before it dies, this means it's running rich. If it just quits with no change in speed, you are either tuned or too lean. What you want to do is open the low speed needle is VERY small increments, like 1/16th of a turn. The low speed needle is the one inside the black slide assembly. Basically, you want to keep richening it up until it speeds up when it dies. Once you reach that point, move on to the high speed needle. Don't mess with the brass adjustment on the opposite end of the carb from the slide. This is the spray bar adjustment and it should be flush with the carb housing.

Start up the engine and run a few laps. Richen up the high speed needle in 1/4 turn increments until the engine bogs down. The high speed needle is the one that sticks up off the carb above where the fuel line attaches Run a lap between each adjustment so you burn off the fuel that's in the crankcase. Once you reach the point when the engine hesitates, it will be very noticable. Now you are too rich. Lean out the high speed needle in 1/8 turn increments until the hesitation goes away. Always make sure you have lots of blue smoke coming from the exhaust. When you reach the point where the hesitation goes away, richen up the high speed needle 1/8 turn. Now you're tuned. Each time you run the car, some small adjustments will probably be necessary.

Run the remainder of the tank out and check the glowplug filament to see how you are tuned. If the filiment is white looking, you're too lean. If the filament is a nice silver color and there's not too much unburned oil on the plug, you're right on. If there's lots of unburned oil around on the plug, you're too rich.

After breaking the engine in, always replace your glowplug. Use Novarossi, REX or RB plugs if you can find them. They will give you the fewest problems. If you don't believe that, check out RB's webpage. There are numerous posts on their message board where Rody talks about this. Anyways, you probably want to run a 6 plug. If you can't get Nova made plugs, I've had pretty good luck with McCoy.

Good luck!
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Old 09-29-2001, 09:32 PM   #54
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BTW, Manticore is correct about the temp. 250 to 270 is normal operating temp for these engines.
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Old 09-30-2001, 12:37 AM   #55
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Being somewhat of a Nitro Novice, and from looking at the poor diagrams that the MT12 has, and some bad instructions from my LHS, I had been tuning my "idle speed" using the "spray bar" adjustment. . Hey, it DID adjust the idle just fine. Only recently did I discover that well-hidden idle adjustment screw. (Very clever, put a small, black screw on a black case and then tuck it beneath the heat sink...).

Anwyay, currently my spray bar screw is about one full turn in (lean) from the brass housing. I know that if I turn it back so it is flush, the car will gurgle its way to a stall.

What is the best way to fix this? I assume I will have to lean out my high end to compensate, but want to make sure.

BTW, the engine is running quite well with its lean "middle" and rich "high". Good smoke, and the temps are in the 250 range.
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Old 09-30-2001, 06:14 AM   #56
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Put your "spray bar adjustment" back to where it's supposed to be and then tune the engine according to Manticore"s instructions. By the way, most people call it the mid-range needle. Not a big deal, but if you know the correct terminology, then people will understand better what you are doing when asking for help.

Moon, are those shock spring/oil combos for rubber tires? I find the purple front shocks give waaaay too much bite when using foams.
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Old 09-30-2001, 08:51 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally posted by tekrsq
Put your "spray bar adjustment" back to where it's supposed to be and then tune the engine according to Manticore"s instructions. By the way, most people call it the mid-range needle. Not a big deal, but if you know the correct terminology, then people will understand better what you are doing when asking for help.

Moon, are those shock spring/oil combos for rubber tires? I find the purple front shocks give waaaay too much bite when using foams.
yep, purple springs are for rubber tire....
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Old 09-30-2001, 04:26 PM   #58
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Default Pix on my MTX-2

Finally took some pictures of my MTX-2, Note: thanks to Manticore's technical support on setting up my MTX-2. Kicked some serious Asses yesterday. Car was stable(could do WOT straight) on straight away, tight turns and unbelievable punch out of cornors(with Manticore's help on setting up Centex Clutch)

Here are some of the pictures I took yesterday! Enjoy!












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Old 09-30-2001, 08:44 PM   #59
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psycho

I'm confused about your statement on pinching the fuel line and seeing the reaction of the engine. You said when you pinch the line and the engine revs up as it dies, it's too rich. I thought when you pinch the fuel line you basically starve and lean out the engine so the revs would go up. Why would this be considerd rich? And why would it be considered tune/lean if the engine does not rev up before it dies? Thanks
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Old 09-30-2001, 09:17 PM   #60
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Sydewynder

When the low end is too rich, your idle is artificially lowered by the rich fuel mixture. When you pinch the fuel line and the engine becomes starved for fuel, the mixture starts to lean out and the idle goes up. This also why the idle does not go up if the mixture is set just right or too lean. Actually, I forgot to mention that you may have to adjust your idle speed once you have the lowend mixture set. Make sense? The "pinch trick" is the most effective way I have found to set the lowend needle.
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