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Old 10-24-2001, 07:58 PM   #271
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Sydewynder

Cool. Thanks for the info. I like the Novak synthesized receivers, but don't like the pos Hitec radio. I guess I'll be getting rid of my 3PDF's now to get the 3PJS and the Hitec module! Sweet! No more waiting for a frequency clip.
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Old 10-25-2001, 02:10 AM   #272
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Default Charging question

Just upgraded to a NiMh 1000mAH Reciever Pack.


Is 1AMP Ok at charging this battery, with no damage? Is 1AMP too much or too little?
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Old 10-25-2001, 02:33 AM   #273
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The formula for optimal charging is C/10, where C = Capacity of the cells. So for cells rated at 1000 milliamps the optimal charging rate is 100 milliamps or 0.1 amps. Most people don't follow this because it take too long (about 12 hours). On my 1000 milliamp Orion packs it said to charge at no higher than 900 milliamps or 0.9 amps. I would go no more than 500 milliamps.

I personally charge my stuff over night.


For NiMh cells you have to make sure you don't over heat it if you use a higher rate. When they start to get warm you need to stop. If you don't use a peak charger with a NiMh mode, I would check the voltage with a volt meter the first couple times to get an idea how long it takes to get full charge.


With that said and done I'm sure there will be others (Like Moon ) that will say you can charge the RX pack at that (1amp) or higher rate. Just remember the sentences above in bold.

Last edited by Sydewynder; 10-25-2001 at 03:00 AM.
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Old 10-25-2001, 02:57 AM   #274
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sydewynder
The formula for optimal charging is C/10, where C = Capacity of the cells. So for cells rated at 1000 milliamps the optimal charging rate is 100 milliamps or 0.1 amps. Most people don't follow this because it take too long (about 12 hours). On my 1000 milliamp Orion packs it said to charge at no higher than 900 milliamps or 0.9 amps. I would go no more than 500 milliamps.

I personally charge my stuff over night.


For NiMh cells you have to make sure you don't over heat it if you use a higher rate. When they start to get warm you need to stop. If you don't use a peak charger with a NiMh mode, I would check the voltage with a volt meter the first couple times to get an idea how long it takes to get full charge.


With that said and done I'm sure there will be others that will say you can charge the RX pack at that (1amp) or higher rate. Just remember the sentences above in bold.
I am the first one to say charging your receiver pack at 1AMP

I usually charge my 700mah AAA size at home at 0.7 or 0.8 amp but if i need to recharge the pack at the track i will charge it at 1 amp.
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Old 10-25-2001, 03:48 AM   #275
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I buying the Apex Sigma Charger, which has all the fancy options including the peak cut off feature. Anyone use this or recommend anything else about $100US ? Only using the charger for my reciever pack and 2400 Nicads on my starter.

To be safe, I'll charge them at 500mA

This would take about 1.5hours right?

My real car broke down on the way to work today - flat battery. So no more truing tyres and charging batteries all on my car when I see all the boyz at the track
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Old 10-25-2001, 03:57 AM   #276
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Quote:
Originally posted by Novarossi
I buying the Apex Sigma Charger, which has all the fancy options including the peak cut off feature. Anyone use this or recommend anything else about $100US ? Only using the charger for my reciever pack and 2400 Nicads on my starter.

To be safe, I'll charge them at 500mA

This would take about 1.5hours right?

My real car broke down on the way to work today - flat battery. So no more truing tyres and charging batteries all on my car when I see all the boyz at the track
Let see

1000 MAh batt / 500 MA charger rate = 2hrs. I would say about 2.5 because of losses.

Does the Apex have a TX/RX mode?



Maybe you can charge your real car battery with the APEX? j/k
Can't you get a converter and plug it in at the track to power everything? Or the track got no AC?
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Old 10-25-2001, 04:13 AM   #277
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Quote:
Originally posted by Novarossi
I buying the Apex Sigma Charger, which has all the fancy options including the peak cut off feature. Anyone use this or recommend anything else about $100US ? Only using the charger for my reciever pack and 2400 Nicads on my starter.

To be safe, I'll charge them at 500mA

This would take about 1.5hours right?

My real car broke down on the way to work today - flat battery. So no more truing tyres and charging batteries all on my car when I see all the boyz at the track
your charging time will be at least 2 hours.

any charger will do the job as long as it doesnt make your nimh hot after charging done.
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Old 10-25-2001, 04:22 AM   #278
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Moon + W Fok,

My friend has the same charge. My old Nicad on my old MTX was that old it kept tripping and false peaking. The APEX was the only charger that would ever charge it. He uses it to charge his NiMh RX packs, it is a digital charger with fully adjustable settings.
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Old 10-25-2001, 04:28 AM   #279
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Quote:
Originally posted by Novarossi
Moon + W Fok,

My friend has the same charge. My old Nicad on my old MTX was that old it kept tripping and false peaking. The APEX was the only charger that would ever charge it. He uses it to charge his NiMh RX packs, it is a digital charger with fully adjustable settings.
I dont think it make any difference if you use low amp to charge your battery. but if the pack is getting really old then you should replace it !

I use CE pitbull for my batteries
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Old 10-27-2001, 12:18 AM   #280
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Default Review the new Pro

Since no one has posted here in a while, I've just about completed the MTX Pro, here are the Con's i've found (Im a critic )

-Poor quality of some parts include :

Chassis - not as countersunk as previous chassis, screws are not 100% flush

Front + Rear arms need to be filed with a small needle file or the suspension will bind (tight fitting on hinges)

2-Speed Cam Housing - Buckled. Will need to replace this, as the one with the kit is tweaked!!!

These problems were found in my kit only.

Overall, excellent car, unlucky that my 2-speed Cam housing is no good, but I guess that happens ($40 down the drain )

Will post pictures soon, and will post race details.

Last edited by Michael_T; 10-27-2001 at 12:26 AM.
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Old 10-27-2001, 03:36 AM   #281
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thats why v-one r's have 2 shoe clutch on 2 speed no worries for me

shouldnt that be under warranty?
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Old 10-27-2001, 08:47 AM   #282
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Quote:
Originally posted by nitro dave
thats why v-one r's have 2 shoe clutch on 2 speed no worries for me

shouldnt that be under warranty?
I have both V1R and MTX2. I dont really like the 2shoe clutch on 2speed. The finger type clutch 2speed is much consistent and easier to adjust.
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Old 10-27-2001, 09:00 AM   #283
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i used to own a hpi with the cam type 2 speed, compared to the v-one r the 2 shoe type is smoother and more reliable and doesnt give the "jolt" into 2nd gear

but personal preference i guess
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Old 10-27-2001, 09:15 AM   #284
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Quote:
Originally posted by nitro dave
i used to own a hpi with the cam type 2 speed, compared to the v-one r the 2 shoe type is smoother and more reliable and doesnt give the "jolt" into 2nd gear

but personal preference i guess
I know some people like the shoe type 2speed because of the "sound" when switching gears. as a matter of fact the "finger" type 2speed is much durable. I guess
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Old 10-29-2001, 01:58 PM   #285
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Novarossi

I saw shallow countersinking in the chassis in a kit so I think Mugen changed it. Don't know why as the orignal one was better.

I was told the arm material was changed so maybe the plastic shrinks differently.

I would see what your LHS can do about the 2 speed piece.
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