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Old 06-28-2002, 04:52 AM   #2236
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sydewynder


Which gears?

I noticed I need new pinions though. All worn out. Could that be it?
I was going to tell u this but you already guessed it. Same thing happened to me once my pinions were worn.
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Old 06-28-2002, 08:21 PM   #2237
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Default droop

what droop is best to start with
and what dose it actualy do
eny help appreciated
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Old 06-29-2002, 04:45 AM   #2238
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Quote:
Originally posted by Diva


Nice car. You don't run VDS, do you?

BTW, are you still running your modeltech BL?
Hi Diva

Yeah still running the BL. It's an amazing motor. I run it whenever I can. It's faster than the Mugen!!!

Sorry, what is VDS??
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Old 06-29-2002, 08:47 AM   #2239
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Quote:
Originally posted by antoniop


Hi Diva

Yeah still running the BL. It's an amazing motor. I run it whenever I can. It's faster than the Mugen!!!

Sorry, what is VDS??
VDS = CAN AM Lola
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Old 06-29-2002, 03:13 PM   #2240
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Aaahhh,

No, just touring car bodies over here. However we are allowed to use 30mm foams.

To be honest, I hate those bodies...
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Old 06-30-2002, 02:01 PM   #2241
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Default more spring rates

http://www.macctrack.co.uk/springs.html
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Last edited by Cartman; 06-30-2002 at 02:04 PM.
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Old 07-01-2002, 03:08 AM   #2242
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Default Pinion gear tool

does any one have this tool, and could explain what the pieces do?
http://www.mugenracing.com/media/B0513.jpg
Does the piece on the bottom of the picture go around the gear?

What stops the clutchbell turning? Does the clutchbell have to be removed from the engine? Is there anything better for removing pinions? Does this tool work with Centax? Thanks for all help!

Last edited by SHARP; 07-01-2002 at 03:10 AM.
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Old 07-01-2002, 06:41 AM   #2243
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Default Re: Pinion gear tool

Quote:
Originally posted by SHARP
does any one have this tool, and could explain what the pieces do?
http://www.mugenracing.com/media/B0513.jpg
Does the piece on the bottom of the picture go around the gear?

What stops the clutchbell turning? Does the clutchbell have to be removed from the engine? Is there anything better for removing pinions? Does this tool work with Centax? Thanks for all help!
The pinions and flywheel go into the main holder, tighten the grub screws on each side and use the metal rod to insert in the little hole in the clutch bell(for adjusting the clutch) to stop it from spinning around. You'll then need to use the large allen key and insert the middle rod straight through the clutchbell.

Does this confuse you enough? Because I always look messy when Im trying to rip off pinions
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Old 07-01-2002, 06:44 AM   #2244
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Since I haven't posted a body picture in ages, here is my current one causing choas - Big enough for you Fokkie and Moonie?

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Old 07-01-2002, 12:42 PM   #2245
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Default Exhaust

Rosi i see you have a JP what do you think?
Mine started cutting and having eratic idle, any idea's, been told might be air leak or conrod!!


also has anyone had any luck repairing the soldered joints etc on pipes , or do you know how/what to use??
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Old 07-02-2002, 12:56 AM   #2246
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Default Re: Exhaust

Quote:
Originally posted by Cartman
Rosi i see you have a JP what do you think?
Mine started cutting and having eratic idle, any idea's, been told might be air leak or conrod!!


also has anyone had any luck repairing the soldered joints etc on pipes , or do you know how/what to use??
Hi Mark,

The JP is a great engine, but like most modified engines, its tricky to get running right. There were a few complaints down here about a weak rod, and an air leak in the carb. My head was actually loose when I first purchased it. Do you notice any oil or leaks coming out of the engine? Seal the carb if you can, and pay special attention to any other odd things. With standard Nova engines, you can be about 5-10% off the ideal needle settings and still run ok. I've noticed with the JP's, you need to be spot on with your carb settings to have them running right. The engine also seems to run slightly hotter then most. Mine runs at about 100-110 degree Celius and uses a Number 5 Gold Nova plug using Trinty fuel.

My advise, keep tuning
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Old 07-02-2002, 03:44 AM   #2247
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Default Re: Re: Pinion gear tool

Quote:
Originally posted by Novarossi


The pinions and flywheel go into the main holder, tighten the grub screws on each side and use the metal rod to insert in the little hole in the clutch bell(for adjusting the clutch) to stop it from spinning around. You'll then need to use the large allen key and insert the middle rod straight through the clutchbell.

Does this confuse you enough? Because I always look messy when Im trying to rip off pinions
So the main holder + the grub screws is like a spanner for the pinions? Can't you just put the small rod in the hole in the bell and undo the pinions without taking clutch bell of the engine?

I don't have this tool, just wondering if its worth getting.

Also are the side windows on your shell cut out?

Last edited by SHARP; 07-02-2002 at 03:51 AM.
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Old 07-02-2002, 03:46 AM   #2248
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Default Re: Exhaust

Quote:
Originally posted by Cartman


also has anyone had any luck repairing the soldered joints etc on pipes , or do you know how/what to use??
i had the stinger knocked of my brand new pipe i have a freind who can weld alloy so i brought the right dia pipe for the stinger and had it welded back on it works a treat and is heaps stronger
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Old 07-02-2002, 04:05 AM   #2249
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Default Re: Re: Re: Pinion gear tool

Quote:
Originally posted by SHARP


So the main holder + the grub screws is like a spanner for the pinions? Can't you just put the small rod in the hole in the bell and undo the pinions without taking clutch bell of the engine?

I don't have this tool, just wondering if its worth getting.

Also are the side windows on your shell cut out?
Yes the tool is worthwhile to have. You probably aready know how hard it is to remove pinions off the MTX. You need to remove the cluthbell from the engine, (you could probably do it with the clutchbell still on the engine, however if you slip up you could bend your rod, and besides, it takes 30secs to take off the cluthcbell anyway). The grub screws on each end lock the pinion/clutchbell into place, the main holder is basically used to get a grip and turn over the pinion, and the metal rod is used to prevent it from spinning around when removing the pinion (again, I think I have confused myself)

Yes the side windows are cut out. I never used to cut them out, until one day I was bored at the track, and tested the engine with bodyshell with side windows intact and then removed the side windows. The end result was same handling and 4 Degree (C) cooler engine . All the top racers here cut the side windows out (which is allowed under IFMAR rules)
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Old 07-02-2002, 04:33 AM   #2250
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Thanks Novarossi
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