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Old 06-21-2002, 04:56 PM   #2146
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Quote:
Originally posted by tekrsq
Interesting you guys are having problems with the negative diff. I hadn't thought about it because I haven't had any problems, BUT I smoothed out the edges of my bevel gears before I put them in. I had problems with the regular diffs locking because of that, and got in the habit of smoothing them out anyway.
So I guess I am right! once you smooth out the end of the shaft then it will solve the locking problem!!
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Old 06-21-2002, 05:08 PM   #2147
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Quote:
Originally posted by tekrsq
Interesting you guys are having problems with the negative diff. I hadn't thought about it because I haven't had any problems, BUT I smoothed out the edges of my bevel gears before I put them in. I had problems with the regular diffs locking because of that, and got in the habit of smoothing them out anyway.
No mine is fine in regards to not working or locking up. I just don't like the way the car drives with that diff in it.

I smoothed out the edges of the bevel gears and even the casting nibs on the backside regardless of where I put them in.
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Old 06-21-2002, 06:45 PM   #2148
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Originally posted by Cartman



NO NO NO bin the oil and buy some proper stuff get some motocross air oil its far better.
agree, nobody use silicon oil on filter, silicon oil under spark will become glass particle which will kill your plug and likely your engine.
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Old 06-21-2002, 11:55 PM   #2149
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Default Re: caster change

Quote:
Originally posted by Raw40
Phsyco, thanks for the info on the air filter.

Nova racer, hi in one of your last posts you suggest decreasing the caster to stop the rear unloading, can you explain as I think my understanding of caster change might be wrong. I thought that increasing (more spacers in front of upper wishbone would decrease turn-in & increase centre & out of corner steering) am I wrong the reason Iím asking the question is that Iím running maximum caster on my X-ray and having the same problem with the back end feeling very loose. Don't whant to make the same mistake with the MTX2
Thanks in advance
Raw40.
Running maximum castor on the MTX (4mm) would give you more top speed steering. I think thats where Nova racer was getting at
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Old 06-22-2002, 02:52 AM   #2150
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Default Re: caster change

Quote:
Originally posted by Raw40
Phsyco, thanks for the info on the air filter.

Nova racer, hi in one of your last posts you suggest decreasing the caster to stop the rear unloading, can you explain as I think my understanding of caster change might be wrong. I thought that increasing (more spacers in front of upper wishbone would decrease turn-in & increase centre & out of corner steering) am I wrong the reason Iím asking the question is that Iím running maximum caster on my X-ray and having the same problem with the back end feeling very loose. Don't whant to make the same mistake with the MTX2
Thanks in advance
Raw40.
ok think of it this way incerasing negative caster transfers more weight to the front wheels also it you look at your car with a lot of neg caster turn the wheels all the way to the left you will notice that the chassie of the car is being pitched slightly. by the camber changenow put all the clips in the rear and look at it now the chassie should be flatter than with a lot on neg caster. now that pitch from a lot of neg caster puts extra weight on the outside front and takes weight fron the inside rear causing the inside wheel to spin in a turn ( unloading the diff). when you have that happen then you loose forward power in the rear because the outside tire sends all it's power to the inside tire. thats just the way a diff works. now you can decrease or tune the amount of diff unloading by using silicone diff oil. but the heaver the diff oil in the front the less steering that you have. but you can get a little more steering if you go a little heaver in the rear. Also i got this tip from a friend of a friend Josh Cyrul he really helped me under stand the caster thing and why is caused the inside rear tire to unload or diff out
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Old 06-22-2002, 04:31 AM   #2151
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Cool Re: caster change

Nova racer/ novarossi thanks for the advice, can you help Iíve just built the diffs for my sons MTX both seem to be smooth but very tight is this normal for a gear diff, will they free-up with use?.
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Old 06-22-2002, 04:41 AM   #2152
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Default Re: Re: caster change

Quote:
Originally posted by Raw40
Nova racer/ novarossi thanks for the advice, can you help Iíve just built the diffs for my sons MTX both seem to be smooth but very tight is this normal for a gear diff, will they free-up with use?.
30k will feel tight, which is what you want. Fill the oil up to where the cross bars meet only. As long as you don't feel the diff's binding, there ok.
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Old 06-22-2002, 08:00 AM   #2153
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Default diffs

In my experiance with the Mugen MBX (offroad but same diff gears) if u leave out the little orings on the gears, the diff will feel alot smoother, but u must shim the diff corretly & fill the diff up all the way to the top. Give it a go it works me in my MTX-2
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Old 06-22-2002, 12:23 PM   #2154
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Default Re: diffs

Thanks both for the advice on the diffs. my next problem have just finished building drive line, the rear & centre drive belts seem to be tensioned ok but the front is very loose in fact it's touching the chassis on it's lower section has anybody had the same problem.

Last edited by Raw40; 06-22-2002 at 12:25 PM.
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Old 06-22-2002, 12:38 PM   #2155
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Default belt

its normal get a Kawahara front belt tensior fron Ted Longshaws there spot on and extend belt life too.
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Last edited by Cartman; 06-23-2002 at 03:44 AM.
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Old 06-22-2002, 12:53 PM   #2156
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Talking

Thanks cartman, I'll try and book into the national at Mendip as you suggested see you there
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Old 06-23-2002, 11:08 AM   #2157
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glo plug

Hi everyone, the saga continues started the motor for the first time today left at idle, ran fine for about three minutes at idle and then cut out. Started straight away but as soon as I removed the glo starter it cut out. Removed the plug to check it on the glow starter it's fine., put it back in the motor same problem, put a different plug in motor runs fine. Can someone explian whats up with the brand new plug?.
second part of my question, plug N0's ie 1-10 should I read higher the No hotter the plug or the other way around, and when should I use Hotter /colder plug?
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Old 06-23-2002, 11:56 AM   #2158
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When you break in an engine, you usually go through 3-4 plugs because the plugs foul easily due to how rich the engine has to be run. The engine dying when the ignitor is removed is a classic sign of a fouled plug.

As for the plug numbers, usually the lower the number, the hotter the plug. I know that OS, McCoy, and Novarossi based plugs are like this. Typically, if you run higher nitro %, you should use a cooler plug. HOWEVER, everything is relative to an engine's performance. Humidity, ambient temp, elevation, fuel %, etc all play an important part in performance. I would suggest running the same # plug that came with the engine until you get it tuned. Once it's broken in and tuned, evaluate performance, then make a decision whether to change the plug. If you're running 20%, you should be fine with the same # plug that came with the engine. I would only change it if you're running 10% or 30%.
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Old 06-23-2002, 12:02 PM   #2159
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Old 06-23-2002, 01:08 PM   #2160
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Got it, THANKS. I sent a reply.
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