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Old 06-04-2002, 12:47 AM   #1966
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Default droop ?

So on the droop are you saying I should just screw the setscrews out and let the shocks act as a travel limiter? It kinda sucks, they only set up the track every other week so I have to wait two weeks to try it. Thanks for the tips.
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Old 06-04-2002, 01:18 AM   #1967
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No.

Let me put it this way. At ride height, screw the droop screws down until they just touch the chassis. That way the arms/tires should'nt drop down when you lift the chassis up with your finger.

I think it's 5mm droop when set with a droop gauge like Yokomo's an AE's(I dont have either).
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Old 06-04-2002, 01:54 AM   #1968
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mugen21:

try increase the chamber to 3deg ~ 3.5deg
decrease you toe. i used 2deg for toe. best in turning in and exit from cornering.
these are the 1st level setting up (or basic set up adjustment).

when you are happy with the 1st level setup, then only go on the secondary setup adjustment to fine tune the car setup to suit your drive style.


Last edited by bhleric; 06-04-2002 at 02:03 AM.
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Old 06-04-2002, 01:58 AM   #1969
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Wow!! That seems like too much camber for a rubber set-up(even for a foam set-up).
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Old 06-04-2002, 02:16 AM   #1970
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supplement to previous post.

: 1.5deg chamber to fr
: 3~3.5deg chamber to rear. (not all 4 tyres, sorry lah)

toe out 1d Fr
toe in 2d Rear

Ride height 4mm Fr, 5mm Rear
1.7 Red colour serpent spring Fr & Rear

front shock pos: 2 holes from bottom
Rear shock pos: 2 holes from bottom

Rubber tyre used.

i think that's what i can think of, in the office right now, can access to my setup sheet.
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Old 06-04-2002, 06:22 AM   #1971
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Default Re: setup ?

Quote:
Originally posted by mugen21
New to onroad and to the board, I went through and read the entire forum and gained alot of useful info and then forgot it by time I got done reading everything. Anyways I raced my MTX2 for the first time last weekend and I need some setup help. I run at a parking lot race on rubber tires and the car has some problems. I played with tires most of the day and got it where it felt ok, but I know it needs some attention to the overall setup. Here is where I have it now.
Front
Camber -1.5
toe out 1degree
shock oil 600 stock pistons
2nd hole from top
blue springs
ride height 5mm
caster big shim towards rear
downstop 4mm
diff 50,000

Rear
Camber 1.5
toe in 4 degrees
shock oil 600
top hole on tower
tried blue springs, purple springs and assc. green springs (real soft)
ride height 6mm
downstop 8mm (I think)
diff 30,000

the problem I am having is the car is real loose in the back, even on a real tight turn If I am going real slow it will try to swing the rear around. I know the car is off a little I need to get a Hudy because it has more oversteer to the right then it does to the left. I just wanted to know If anyone has a rubber tire setup that will keep the rear from trying to sway ends. Some of the setup is from another guy I race with and I went with his reccomendations as far as the diffs go, I race 1/8 scale offroad and one way I can get rid of a loose rear is drop down the oil in the rear diff or even put a light grease in it. I was curious If I went to 10,000 or even 5k or 3k in the rear If that would help. Like I said I am new to onroad and I am pretty lost when It comes to the suspension. On a good note I did qualify 4th and had 3rd locked up in the main till the front upright (the same one I cracked earlier in the day) popped out of the pivot balls after a slight brush with the boards.... ok maybe it wasn't a slight brush. Sorry for such a long post I really had fun with the car and just want to try and get it setup a little better before I run again. TIA Michael.
What tyres do most guys run on the track, and try them. It could be just you need to drop down to softer tyres in the rear. Also 4 degree toe is too much - this indicates that you need a softer rear setup. There is a fine line when toe works and too much toe doesn't resulting in slip. Is the 1.5degree camber measured on a setup board (eg Hudy - elevated camber) or is it driving camber? If it is 1.5 elevated, add another degree or two - keep adding camber until your rear tyre wear is even or slightly conned inside.

If all this fails, true a stiffer front spring or harder front tyres, it could be your front end having too much grip and swinging the backend around.

Keep the diff's as your last resort, I run One-way front and 50k rear on all tracks and it handles well.
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Old 06-04-2002, 07:27 AM   #1972
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Default rear turnbuckle

Hey guys, does someone remember how long are the rear turnbuckles? I want to order from lunsford but I don't remember the size.
HELP please!!!
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Old 06-04-2002, 07:34 AM   #1973
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Default Re: rear turnbuckle

Quote:
Originally posted by Pepe
Hey guys, does someone remember how long are the rear turnbuckles? I want to order from lunsford but I don't remember the size.
HELP please!!!
the lunsford turnbuckles are 15mm and I need to cut down one side of the ball cap to make the camber link shorter.
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Old 06-04-2002, 09:27 AM   #1974
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Hey Manticore,
If they are the same exact size, why do we need to cut the ball cup?
Thanks!!
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Old 06-04-2002, 10:16 AM   #1975
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Quote:
Originally posted by Pepe
Hey Manticore,
If they are the same exact size, why do we need to cut the ball cup?
Thanks!!
The adjusting 'square' on the lunsford is longer than the gap that you want between the ball cups...so you have to cut the ball cups to achieve the correct total length.
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Old 06-04-2002, 11:02 AM   #1976
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Thank you guys
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Old 06-04-2002, 11:02 AM   #1977
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Quote:
Originally posted by dtm


The adjusting 'square' on the lunsford is longer than the gap that you want between the ball cups...so you have to cut the ball cups to achieve the correct total length.
I use the camber link position as followings:

shock tower: inner/lower
hub side: inner/upper

the 15mm together with the shorter link required to cut down one of the ball cap.

dtm is right in the way.

p.s. I run on foam tire.
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Old 06-04-2002, 02:13 PM   #1978
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Quote:
Originally posted by Manticore


I use the camber link position as followings:

shock tower: inner/lower
hub side: inner/upper

the 15mm together with the shorter link required to cut down one of the ball cap.

dtm is right in the way.

p.s. I run on foam tire.
Did you try using the outer holes in both sides? What is the effect in doing so?
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Old 06-04-2002, 04:07 PM   #1979
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Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Pepe


Did you try using the outer holes in both sides? What is the effect in doing so?
if you use outer holes in both sides, then you will make the camber link length as close as lower A-arm! if that's the case your camber angle will change less then if you were to use inner holes when springs are compressed
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Old 06-04-2002, 05:41 PM   #1980
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Default Tires

Novarossi,
I tried different tires that others reccomended and they all felt the same. I was running takeoff 27's all the way around and then I went Treadz 26mm rear's that were actually harder then the fronts and it felt about the same. I bought some real soft Sorex tires for the rear that I never got around to trying. So with the car sitting on the table I should have about 3 degrees of camber? Thanks for the tips I am going to change it up and take it up to a parking lot and make my own track out of some cones and see how it does.
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