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Old 06-02-2002, 11:59 AM   #1951
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Quote:
Originally posted by Whatever-_-"
are those yokomo wide 32mm tires?
Yes Yok 32mm, multi ring 45 shore
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Old 06-02-2002, 02:02 PM   #1952
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Default RE PIC'S

Nice stuff m8 what camera did you use, im thinking of getting one
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Old 06-02-2002, 09:32 PM   #1953
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Quote:
Originally posted by Ah10


Oh it is not Kawahara enging, it's Kawahara Zac overside cooling head!
Man that thing is so good it keeps my engine much cooler! Oh I am currenting using RB X12T 5 port and I normally run it at 240~250 and with this head I am running the same speed but the temp is only 206~212!

So this is one excellent mod from Kawahara
serious? the Kawa heatsink can make such a big difference?
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Old 06-02-2002, 10:32 PM   #1954
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Originally posted by hurhur


serious? the Kawa heatsink can make such a big difference?
Yes it does work good! at first I really didnt believe it (I mean so dramatic, but I have seen it with my own eye, with the same temp gun and at the same track, everything is the same!
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Old 06-02-2002, 10:36 PM   #1955
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Default Re: RE PIC'S

Quote:
Originally posted by Cartman
Nice stuff m8 what camera did you use, im thinking of getting one
too bad ah10. cartman appreciates your camera but not your car !
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Old 06-02-2002, 10:47 PM   #1956
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any idea why it is so hard to take out a tire from the car sometimes? the wheel seems stuck to the drive axle and brute force is needed to extract it out. did i tighten the hex nut too tight?
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Old 06-02-2002, 10:53 PM   #1957
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Quote:
Originally posted by hurhur
any idea why it is so hard to take out a tire from the car sometimes? the wheel seems stuck to the drive axle and brute force is needed to extract it out. did i tighten the hex nut too tight?
I normally use a excto knife to kind of cut the hole just a little bit bigger on a fresh set! and that will do it everytime!
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Old 06-02-2002, 10:56 PM   #1958
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Default Re: Re: RE PIC'S

Quote:
Originally posted by Manticore


too bad ah10. cartman appreciates your camera but not your car !
Ha Ha! oh by the way that's a Sony DSC-F707, my friend Billy's digicam! and it can take viedo clip too! pretty kewl!

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Old 06-03-2002, 02:33 AM   #1959
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eh... good stuff.........
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Old 06-03-2002, 08:55 AM   #1960
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I know I havn't posted in awhile (I did sell my car afterall) but I heard this bit of news that you guys may be interested in.

The MTX-2 will no longer ship with the MT12 engine but with the RS12 Turbo engine. Looks like Mugen is expecting a lot of people to jump on board the new ROAR Outlaw class.

-Jason
JasonJenkins.com
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Old 06-03-2002, 09:07 AM   #1961
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Default Re: Re: Where is everyone??

Quote:
Originally posted by Ah10


I am here! by the way, havent post pictures of my MTX2 for a long time! here it comes.........
Wooh.....you certainly like 'clean' cars!!!!!!!

Manticore sent me your run.......damn fast.....wouldn't like to crash on that track!!!!
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Old 06-03-2002, 09:28 AM   #1962
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Default RE engine RS not MT

the reason for the MTX2 having an RS motor insted of Mt is simply Rossi have none to supply mugen
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Last edited by Cartman; 06-03-2002 at 10:11 AM.
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Old 06-03-2002, 09:52 AM   #1963
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Default Re: Re: Re: Where is everyone??

Quote:
Originally posted by dtm


Wooh.....you certainly like 'clean' cars!!!!!!!

Manticore sent me your run.......damn fast.....wouldn't like to crash on that track!!!!
Thank you very much! Yes I do like to keep my car clean! I personally think if a car is as clean as possible the chances getting worn parts are less!

Yes Crystal Park is a very high speed track, I am running 18/47 with 21/42 with RBX12T5 port and honest to god I could hit top speed towards the end of the straight away every single lap!
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Old 06-03-2002, 09:32 PM   #1964
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Default setup ?

New to onroad and to the board, I went through and read the entire forum and gained alot of useful info and then forgot it by time I got done reading everything. Anyways I raced my MTX2 for the first time last weekend and I need some setup help. I run at a parking lot race on rubber tires and the car has some problems. I played with tires most of the day and got it where it felt ok, but I know it needs some attention to the overall setup. Here is where I have it now.
Front
Camber -1.5
toe out 1degree
shock oil 600 stock pistons
2nd hole from top
blue springs
ride height 5mm
caster big shim towards rear
downstop 4mm
diff 50,000

Rear
Camber 1.5
toe in 4 degrees
shock oil 600
top hole on tower
tried blue springs, purple springs and assc. green springs (real soft)
ride height 6mm
downstop 8mm (I think)
diff 30,000

the problem I am having is the car is real loose in the back, even on a real tight turn If I am going real slow it will try to swing the rear around. I know the car is off a little I need to get a Hudy because it has more oversteer to the right then it does to the left. I just wanted to know If anyone has a rubber tire setup that will keep the rear from trying to sway ends. Some of the setup is from another guy I race with and I went with his reccomendations as far as the diffs go, I race 1/8 scale offroad and one way I can get rid of a loose rear is drop down the oil in the rear diff or even put a light grease in it. I was curious If I went to 10,000 or even 5k or 3k in the rear If that would help. Like I said I am new to onroad and I am pretty lost when It comes to the suspension. On a good note I did qualify 4th and had 3rd locked up in the main till the front upright (the same one I cracked earlier in the day) popped out of the pivot balls after a slight brush with the boards.... ok maybe it wasn't a slight brush. Sorry for such a long post I really had fun with the car and just want to try and get it setup a little better before I run again. TIA Michael.
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Old 06-04-2002, 12:31 AM   #1965
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Micheal, I run a similar setup as yours except for.......

1 deg. camber all around
10,000 diff oil in front, 5000 rear
Thin caster shim towards rear
Blue Mugen rear springs
Inside hole on rear shock tower
2 deg. rear toe
Rear camber link: Upper outer on hub, lower inner on tower.
Sorex 36R or 40R or Yokomo 138GH2. Depends on track temp.
Zero droop Fr/Rr.(arms don't drop down when chassis is lifted from ride height)

The droop settings and rear diff oil should really transform the car.

I race on an prepped but untreated med/small track with lots of tight turns. I use a fully modded RB X12 and a 49 1st gear and the rear just STICKS. It only gets kinda loose when the track temperature goes over 130 deg. Not to brag but i'm a regular upper "A" main driver.
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