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Old 04-08-2002, 11:42 AM   #1651
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Default Re: Kawahara negative diff

Quote:
Originally posted by stefan
Guys,

my Kawahara diff locked up on me yesterday. I built it w/o the white plastic washers as people recommended here, instead I used the metal washers from Mugen.

I use white Lithium grease and it feels very smooth.
After it locked up, I worked it a little bit and became free again.

Everybody else had a problem like this?
you should check the bevel gear mesh and. Like ah10 said, the Hyspin + works very well with this diff.
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Old 04-08-2002, 11:43 AM   #1652
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Default Re: Kawahara negative diff

Quote:
Originally posted by stefan
Guys,

my Kawahara diff locked up on me yesterday. I built it w/o the white plastic washers as people recommended here, instead I used the metal washers from Mugen.

I use white Lithium grease and it feels very smooth.
After it locked up, I worked it a little bit and became free again.

Everybody else had a problem like this?

Sounds like you have some worn out bevel gears! and not enough lube in there! if that happens then the edges of 2 bevel gears got stuck together!
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Old 04-08-2002, 04:20 PM   #1653
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Default Re: Re: Re: Diff Oil

Quote:
Originally posted by RC Nitro


Thanks for the info. I will try the 30,000 in the front. Toward the end of the day racing yesterday I was getting loose and it was getting progressivly worse in the main. Lots of oversteer. Thanks again
As Manticore mentioned, changing the diff oil along may not fix the problem, there are other factors. However, it's worth to tackle
the possible causes one at a time.

What diff oil are you using in the rear. Also does your car over-steer on-power or off-power ?


To Manticore:
If you were to use diffs instead of the one-way/solid axle, on the same track what diff oil would you recommend ?
Also is there any way to get your setup info/sheet ? because I am converting my other Mugen into one-way/solid and the track is medium size with tight infiled, good traction.
Thanks !

Last edited by yokomoracer; 04-08-2002 at 04:24 PM.
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Old 04-08-2002, 06:51 PM   #1654
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Default

My Negative didnt lock up but it wasnt spinning the drive axles??? Come to find out that one of the screws came out and all the oil was gone!! Stripped all of the gears. My problem now is im missing 2 screws and i can't find replacements anywhere?? Anybody know whee i can find them? I hear they are 2.6 mm screws.

Thanks
MTX
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Old 04-08-2002, 07:02 PM   #1655
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Diff Oil

Quote:
Originally posted by yokomoracer


As Manticore mentioned, changing the diff oil along may not fix the problem, there are other factors. However, it's worth to tackle
the possible causes one at a time.

What diff oil are you using in the rear. Also does your car over-steer on-power or off-power ?


To Manticore:
If you were to use diffs instead of the one-way/solid axle, on the same track what diff oil would you recommend ?
Also is there any way to get your setup info/sheet ? because I am converting my other Mugen into one-way/solid and the track is medium size with tight infiled, good traction.
Thanks !
1/. I would use 5K rear and 10K or 7K front.

2/. front
1' toe out; 8' caster; 2' camber; 80wt shock oil and two holes piston; sway bar is around 30' from softest position; 42 shore tire; white spring
rear
2.5' toe in; 3' camber; camberlink: bulkhead-inner/lower hub-upper/outter; 55wt shock oil and two holes piston; swaybar; 40 shore tire; grey spring;

all shocks fully laydown; front one-way with rear solid axle.

droop: front very little; rear-adjust it until shock coil spring kept in place of the spring retainer.
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Old 04-09-2002, 12:49 AM   #1656
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Hi Manticore,
Thank you for helping me again. I will give that a try when my conversion is completed. Any info on ride height and shock length ?
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Old 04-09-2002, 01:51 AM   #1657
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Quote:
Originally posted by yokomoracer
Hi Manticore,
Thank you for helping me again. I will give that a try when my conversion is completed. Any info on ride height and shock length ?
i find the MTX2 is very sensitive on ride high. make sure you ahve same ride high front and rear. If you run foam tire, the best tire size Front/Rear should be a very little bit bigger in the front as the drive tran has no O/D pulley unless you have the kawahara 34 front pulley.

you need around 66mm rear shock. it doesnt matter about the front as you dont need much droop there.
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Old 04-09-2002, 04:31 AM   #1658
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Manticore: Thanks for the info. I removed the 1 way as the local tracks are tight, set more for electrics. I need the brakes as I am such a smooth driver I was at the LHS last night and one of the better drivers was there. He and the lead tech recomended that I go up a small jump to 10,000 to see if I can see a differance. If that was to much go down to 5,000 or back to 3,000. I am running the negitave diff in the rear and kit is a prospec runnig the kit setup with rear one softer on the shock tower.

Stefan: no problem to date with mine, but kit was new when I built the diff. oh oh, build using metal washers not plastic that was in the kit??? Am I missing something here??

yokomoracer: I figured I better go small steps. I learned the hard way when I did full scale road racing. Made a group of changer and did not know what each did. I learned yesterday the the tredz "A" copmpound that is good there in the cold tends to get greasy when they get hot and the weather warms up like it did durring the final. Bought some 40/42 shore to try. On the rear I use the negitave diff with silicon grease in the diff. The car oversteered off power. In full scale I would call this trailing throttle oversteer.

Thanks to everyone on this!
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Old 04-09-2002, 05:41 AM   #1659
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Default JP engine

Anybody got a link for info about this engine and whats it like??
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Old 04-09-2002, 07:05 AM   #1660
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Default Re: JP engine

Quote:
Originally posted by Cartman
Anybody got a link for info about this engine and whats it like??

http://www.jpracing.com/
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Old 04-09-2002, 07:41 AM   #1661
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Default Pipe repair

Guys,

thanks for your replies regarding the neg. diff.

Now , I just read about the "expanding water" method to repair dented pipes. How is this doen?
Are you filling them with water and freeze it ? If so, do you have to seal the pipe tightly? How is it done.

Please let me know, I have a whole collection of dented pipes.

Thank you all, you are extremly helpfull.
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Old 04-09-2002, 11:57 AM   #1662
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Default ICE expansion

I have found that milk is better to start as it expands more.
block the outlet up (fuel pipe with a bolt in it) pour in the milk till it comes out of the pressure nipple, then bung that up. now fill the pipe completly and bung and wire the inlet up. ( i used a bit of my wife's wooden spoon hanle) 8-/ but a piece of dowel will do fine, place in the freezer over nite , this can be repeated but be warned! it will blow up like a baloon if you do it too much.
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Old 04-09-2002, 04:15 PM   #1663
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Quote:
Originally posted by RC Nitro
The car oversteered off power. In full scale I would call this trailing throttle oversteer.
Thicker front diff oil is one of the many fixes for the off-power over-steering.... in the electric car with front ball diff I would tighten it up a bit. Yokomo uses solid front for the GT-4 RTR, to make it easier to drive at speed for newbies......
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Old 04-09-2002, 06:19 PM   #1664
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Is there a way of fitting 26 mm tires up front without placing spacer inside the rim or triming the inside tire? If I get front universals could the spacer be placed before the wheel hubs.

Thanks
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Old 04-09-2002, 06:43 PM   #1665
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Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Tomek
Is there a way of fitting 26 mm tires up front without placing spacer inside the rim or triming the inside tire? If I get front universals could the spacer be placed before the wheel hubs.

Thanks
Yes you could! just place an 1mm washer inbetween the bearing and the pin like the pro-spec then you are fine!

I am doing it like that and I am using 26mm front tire without rubbing
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