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Old 03-21-2002, 03:22 PM   #1486
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Default Re: Re: getting engine to turn over ????

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Originally posted by Sydewynder


The new generation ABC engines are very tight when new. It will loosen up after it is broken in.

Try using a liberal amount of after run oil. If you still can't get it to turn over on your box you can put the engine on a cordless drill, put in after run and use the drill to loosen up the engine ( make sure the drill turns the crank the correct way). Do about 15 minutes changing the after run about every 5 minutes and see if you box can now crank it over.

Is your box a 2 540 motor type box? Some won't have enough torque to crank these new engines over.

BTW Be glad its like this. It tells me that once broken in the engine will give you good power and will last longer (retain its compression) than ones that were loose to begin with.

The clutch should not affect the ability of the box to turnover the engine if the bell is freewheeling like it's suppose to when the engine is off.

BTW again, during break-in the piston/flywheel might get stuck between tanks. Make sure the piston is at the bottom (BDC) during cool downs.
yes, mine is the tru start w/ (2) 540 motors and i just doesen't have the balls to trun this engine . so will the drill trick work ??
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Old 03-21-2002, 03:37 PM   #1487
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Default Re: Re: Re: getting engine to turn over ????

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Originally posted by carpet_killa


yes, mine is the tru start w/ (2) 540 motors and i just doesen't have the balls to trun this engine . so will the drill trick work ??
Should work. The drill trick was something motorman suggested on the hard to crank over new engines.

Actually his first suggestion was to take apart the engine and lap the piston and sleeve with lapping compound. For me it's too much trouble and I worry about not getting everything really clean of abrasive.
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Old 03-21-2002, 03:53 PM   #1488
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Take the plug out and squirt some afterren in the plug hole and down the carb. spin it over without the plug for a while 5 minutes. reinstall the plug loose and try to fire it. that should work.
don't attempt to lap the sleeve unless you really know what your doing.
a drill can be used but you run the chance of breaking the end of the crank off. I have seen it happen.
yes some guys use 19 turn mod motors that are reverse rotation in their boxes for the 21 engines.
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Last edited by Motorman; 03-21-2002 at 03:56 PM.
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Old 03-21-2002, 03:59 PM   #1489
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There you go straight from the engine guru's mouth!
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Old 03-21-2002, 04:32 PM   #1490
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Default Diff

Negative diff
will the negative diff work for rubber tyred cars?
and do you have any link for the sites that do hop up options?
like 5 star racing jack etc!!
Thank you all

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Old 03-21-2002, 06:41 PM   #1491
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Default re:

great i will try that.. thanks dennis and thanks sydewynder.....
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Old 03-21-2002, 08:53 PM   #1492
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Default re;

also , would these work ? i have a reedy mvp motor and a trinity p2k motor. would these be better than the motors in the starter box?
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Old 03-21-2002, 09:23 PM   #1493
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Default Starter Box motors

To my Intelligence I think in the starter box you need to have 2 of the same motors to make i work.

~Brandon
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Old 03-21-2002, 09:36 PM   #1494
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Since both are stock motors they can work together.
Both of them will be drawing current from the same source
and connected by one belt, so they will counter-balance each other.
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Old 03-21-2002, 09:47 PM   #1495
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Default melting contact

If the contact melted there's still a bad connection, most of the current is going, not to the motors, but to heating up the push down connection. That's stealing power from the starter motors. I don't blame you for being steamed though. I've got an offna box with the twin 540's and in the beginning my mt12 engine was tight Tight TIGHT. It was hard getting the engine started and I was wondering what the heck is going on! The key is to get that thing running and broken in. Once you've put some tanks through the engine the extreme binding at TDC will be lessened to something reasonable. My broken in engine now starts up on the same box in less than a second.
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Old 03-21-2002, 10:32 PM   #1496
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Default Short!!

sounds like one of your motor windings have died....


time to replace with something stronger
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Old 03-21-2002, 10:34 PM   #1497
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killa to make them spin backwards (you will have to check the rotation to see what you need) you need to cut off the end bell locking tab and rotate the end bells 180. you should be able to use them.
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Old 03-21-2002, 10:36 PM   #1498
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I use the Ofna box with the dual 540 motors and have not had problems at all. Even when breaking in my .21 Picco and C4 motors.

Sure every once in awhile when the engine was new, the motor would get stuck TDC. When that happened I would stop, and move the piston back down by moving the flywheel. I may have had to do this a few times in a row but it wasn't bad enough for me to consider another starter box or tearing the engine down.

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Old 03-22-2002, 09:32 AM   #1499
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Default Front Dog bones

I have a track of 199mm front and back but now it seems that the front dog bones are prone of fallen out all the time. I re ajusted the front track and found out that it might have been a half of mm out of wack on the side that keeps fallen out. How much play do you guys have on you front dog bones?? Right now it doesn't seems that it will fall out again but it's damn sure close. Is this right?
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Old 03-22-2002, 09:52 AM   #1500
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Use O-rings inside the out drivers to stop the dog bones falling out.

One way of checking whether there is enough clearance is to fully compress the suspension and while it is compressed, check that there is a slight longitudinal play in the dogbone.
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