clutch setting (end play)
 

end play have influence on car activity.

is it true or false ?

i want to hear your opinion.

I was told by my local expert that to much endplay( not clutch clearance) is hard on the thrust bearings. I set mine at .1mm check this with a shim or feeler gauge.

yes too much clearance can cause thrust bearing failure.
Shim till clutch bell doesnt spin free then remove one .1 shim to free it up.

What you set your end play to is really dependent on the clutch design. On the RRR, the recommendation is 0.1mm. On the MTX-4, 0.3mm to prevent the engine from overheating. As stated above, if the gap is too large, it may cause thrust bearing failure because it engages too hard.

.3mm on the Mugens :eek: Why and how does it effect engine temps ???

i think the .3 is referring to a tight gap setting rather than a loose endplay setting. it seems the tendency these days is towards a stiffer spring, lighter flyweights and smaller endgaps.

so as the gap is reduced, the maximum endplay must also be reduced otherwise there is rubbing when the clutch bell wobbles

That i can understand but i am sure rmd meant endplay .3mm.
Like to know why.

Good thing you guys posted this before I started blowing out thrust bearings.

I originally setup my 2D clutch with 0.1mm of end gap but ended up going to 0.2mm because it felt like the gap was missing after 3-4 minutes of driving and caused clutch to engage too early and also resulted in the proper amount of rip out of the corner.

Hi, sorry for my question I am Spanish and it is the first time that I see "end play", what it is??
Thank you

The fore and aft movement on clutch bell.

sometimes i still get confused with all this RC terms :blush: :lol: :lol:

anyway regarding clutch setting there r 2 things thats usually comes in mind :
clutch gap , end play ? right? :rolleyes: and how tight u set your clutch spring ;)

anyway how do u guys set your cluth gap and end play...?

for me (i follow the RRR manual) only set the clutch gap by adding shims outside the thrust bearings (usually i choose 0.3-0.5 gap). then its finished , i was wonderin where is my end play? :confused: ....( coz no shimmings required between the internal clutch bell bearing and clucth nut)...

I run a Mugen so I am not sure for your clutch, for my clutches I remove the inside clutchbell bearing when setting clutch clearance. I have set my clutch clearance and forgot to take the bearing out and my clutch no endplay and was tight as a ..............

Correct me if I'm wrong :

Clutch gap : the gap distance between clutch shoe and cluth bell. Ideally both surfaces don't rub each other ( free spin ). You can set the distance by adding 5x10 shims before the centax bearing ( the 1st bearing inside clutch bell ). Usually 0.5mm gap surface for Mugen cars and 0.2mm gap surface for G4S.

End Play : is the fore and aft movement on the clutch bell. I don't know how much end play is satisfactory numbers. In my car, I set the end play about 0.8mm feel.

Spring Tension : Adjust spring tension by turning the locknut, or using thicker spring. The harder the spring tension, the harder the punch will be. Why ? The engine will rev higher first before the centax clutch enganged. Harder punch is good for high traction and vice versa. Normally people will settle with harder spring ( super hard ) for better acceleration feel.

Clutch Weights : Almost similar to spring tension. Lighter clutch weights ( by centrifrugal force ) will push the clutch shoe ( engange the clutch ) at higher rev, and vice versa. The main difference between light vs heavy clutch weights are the linear vs abrupt punch. Light weight clutch will induce abrupt or snappy feeling, while heavy weight clutch is more linear feeling.

Read this please:

http://www.nitrokb.com/pdf/clutch01.pdf

Thank you

Best thing to do is ask Francis M, as he is the one that gave me the advice. He has a lot more track time with the MTX-4 than I do, so as far as I'm concerned, it's good info.