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Old 12-04-2003, 10:36 PM   #106
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Default Re: Re: Re: Caster effect

Quote:
Originally posted by GoldFinger
D, Ive been trying that... both combination. Both is better for on throttle and not notice any difference in off throttle. But, maybe Im just a beginner too..
I'm told that for the caster to play it's part in the jacking effect of the REAR wheels (from inside wheel to outside wheel) to assist steering, your front suspension needs to be hard. Else, the jacking effect will be absorb by the soft front suspension.

Quote:
Originally posted by GoldFinger
For better initial turn in (off throtle), harder rear stabilizer is still better option.
Agreed. Going up to a harder rear suspension and tighter rear diff is also good.
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Old 12-04-2003, 11:50 PM   #107
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Caster effect

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Originally posted by InitialD
I'm told that for the caster to play it's part in the jacking effect of the REAR wheels (from inside wheel to outside wheel) to assist steering, your front suspension needs to be hard. Else, the jacking effect will be absorb by the soft front suspension.
Im using Trinity 80 with 2hole, I think its hard enough.

..oh I forgot to tell you that I tested it without using front sway bar.. I will install that on this sunday.
Could be because of that the "jacking effect" is minimized during off throttle turns.

As for the harder rear suspension and tighter rear diff is perfect for high traction condition. Im totally aggre for this.

Hope this teaching session from Mr. D is helping you esham.
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Old 12-05-2003, 12:19 AM   #108
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Err.... please refer to my another drawing Once we mention about better initial turn .. which car travel are you refering at..when we turn the radio at point A?

And base on the drawing again Which route of the car that due to more caster?

And which one can cause by stiffer rear stabilizer. ( I mean which car ..)

Thank you for all your comment...
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Old 12-05-2003, 12:27 AM   #109
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Quote:
Originally posted by esham
Err.... please refer to my another drawing Once we mention about better initial turn .. which car travel are you refering at..when we turn the radio at point A?

And base on the drawing again Which route of the car that due to more caster?

And which one can cause by stiffer rear stabilizer. ( I mean which car ..)

Thank you for all your comment...
Heheh my 705 turns like the blue car.... thats the car OUTSIDE the yellow car... its so far out that you don't even see it in the picture!
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Old 12-05-2003, 12:32 AM   #110
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Quote:
Originally posted by lawndoggie
Heheh my 705 turns like the blue car.... thats the car OUTSIDE the yellow car... its so far out that you don't even see it in the picture!
may be you need to change it to 710 instead.
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Old 12-05-2003, 02:37 AM   #111
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hahah my 705 thinks it needs a new driver!
My car had so much traction that it actually flipped in a few turns.. So reading some of your mail, I guess increasing rear stiffness is a good idea huh?
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Old 12-05-2003, 02:50 AM   #112
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Quote:
Originally posted by lawndoggie
My car had so much traction that it actually flipped in a few turns.. So reading some of your mail, I guess increasing rear stiffness is a good idea huh?
Traction roll ! Lawndoggie, what ride height are you running? Run about 5 in front and 6 in the rear. That would be a good height to start before you go and stiffen the rear.
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Old 12-05-2003, 03:00 AM   #113
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Traction roll ! Lawndoggie, what ride height are you running? Run about 5 in front and 6 in the rear. That would be a good height to start before you go and stiffen the rear.
5F7R, thats what I have! heheheh yellow spring all around.. 30W oil
40F and 42 Real tires (mugen fast)
-1 toll out front, 2 toll in rear
2 font and 3 rear chamber
i THINK 2.5mm front droop and around 7mm rear droop
As for caster, I have the thickest one on the back, the other 2 up front...
Oh front shock mounted on the BLOCK? Rear mounted on the lowest whole...
all else factory STANDARD..
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Old 12-05-2003, 03:13 AM   #114
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Why are you using softer front than the rear tires? Not enough steering? What about front sway bar settings?

Set front droop to 0 or 1 and the rear droop to 5 or 6.

Test the car and then take off the rear shock tower and mount it on the rear bearing blocks. See what happens.

Team Serpent uses red springs all around and shocks mounted on all the bearing blocks. You may want to try that also. Do one thing at a time...
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Old 12-05-2003, 03:24 AM   #115
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Why are you using softer front than the rear tires? Not enough steering? What about front sway bar settings?

Set front droop to 0 or 1 and the rear droop to 5 or 6.

Test the car and then take off the rear shock tower and mount it on the rear bearing blocks. See what happens.

Team Serpent uses red springs all around and shocks mounted on all the bearing blocks. You may want to try that also. Do one thing at a time...
Yea not enough steering, fromt sway bar was set at 90 degrees (HARD) actually I just realized how to set it 2 nights ago, while I was doing my bumper rebuild..... hehehe perhaps I should set it to soft?
I bought red spring a few days ago, will be putting them on this saturday!
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Old 12-05-2003, 03:36 AM   #116
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Quote:
Originally posted by lawndoggie
hehehe perhaps I should set it to soft?
To get it to turn at a smaller radius, make sure your front and rear trackwidth is less than 200 mm. What trackwidth is your car at the present moment?

Use harder front sway bar settings if you want to avoid traction roll. Perhaps you may settle for 45 degrees. That you need to play around and test out on your track.
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Old 12-05-2003, 03:58 AM   #117
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the rear is at 200mm, the front.. well it waries... when using FC, its around 203... when using standard, its around 198... strange huh??
I broke the FC last time, and I am going back to standard for now...
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Old 12-05-2003, 04:06 AM   #118
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With FC steering blocks, use the shortened aluminum pivot balls option. Then screw the pivot balls in so that you get a trackwidth of less than 200 mm. Your car responds better left and right when your front trackwidth is narrower.

This may be the reason why you dogbones pop out easy. Keep the front trackwidth to less than 200 mm and with some spacers / o rings inserted in the one way drive cup to push the dogbones into the wheel side drive cup axle, less chance of the dogbones falling off.
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Old 12-05-2003, 04:18 AM   #119
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
With FC steering blocks, use the shortened aluminum pivot balls option. Then screw the pivot balls in so that you get a trackwidth of less than 200 mm. Your car responds better left and right when your front trackwidth is narrower.

This may be the reason why you dogbones pop out easy. Keep the front trackwidth to less than 200 mm and with some spacers / o rings inserted in the one way drive cup to push the dogbones into the wheel side drive cup axle, less chance of the dogbones falling off.
I used the standard pivot balls on the FC and was able to screw them ALL the way in, but I had to put lexan between the wheel and hex adaptor to increase steering block arm/wheel clearance... so that is 2mm extra....
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Old 12-05-2003, 04:36 AM   #120
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Quote:
Originally posted by lawndoggie
I used the standard pivot balls on the FC and was able to screw them ALL the way in, but I had to put lexan between the wheel and hex adaptor to increase steering block arm/wheel clearance... so that is 2mm extra....
The stock pivot balls are 23mm and the shortened aluminum ones are 21.63mm. You can cut the stock ones shorter.
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