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Old 04-14-2003, 12:32 AM   #1
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Oversteering... why? How to control that

Hello racer... Now almost 6 month i had my RC Car - V1RR, My problem still oversteering at the corner. Yet still feel stupid to not find out what's wrong with my setting that affect to that problem. So common guys! let note all your experience on how to overcome this
Parameter .
1. Driving technique?
2. Tyre ?
3. One Way ?
4. The road surface?
5. Radio setting?
6. Incorrect suspension?
7. Wrong setup?

Hopefully this thread will give good info for those that have same problem. If you do ....... Your car will overster.


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Old 04-14-2003, 12:57 AM   #2
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Whats your current setup? (Oh, if you have an oversteering problem, a front one way will be worse.)

Try softening the rear. Or stiffening the front. A lower rate spring or smaller weight shock oil in the rear is good. Or softer rear tires. Dial in some more negative rear toe in as well.
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Old 04-14-2003, 01:18 AM   #3
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Are you having problems entering, exiting. Onpower or off, or just plain everywhere throughout the corner? This would help us nail it. Also, are you used to running one ways?

I'm sorry if this isn't too helpful, but it will make it easier for you to try get rid of this problem at the track next time. If you tell us this, we can be a little more specific.
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Old 04-14-2003, 02:03 AM   #4
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Default Corner - Oversteer

Thanks guys... To be specific, The oversteer is to obious during entering a corner and worse if the corner just after straight line and full accelerating!. As a result, evertime come to corner I have to push break and gently corner like kids holding eggs on the spoon!... Mannnn... That is not racing !

Yes Dan.. I did make my setup standard as standard for new beginner.

Weather - tropica
Track - Parking lot

Front
Sorex Tyre -40R
Insert Soft
Now - Diff , before One way ( Even worse ! You bet! )
Toe Out - 1-2 degree
Spring - Mid Hard ( Eagle Racing )

Rear
Sorex Tyre - 36
Insert Soft
Diff
Toe in - 2 Degree
Spring - Original Kyosho Black V1RR

Radio - M8
Dual rate - 75%

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Old 04-14-2003, 02:13 AM   #5
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What kind of oil are you running in your diffs? For rubber tires I run 30,000 in front with 5,000 usually in the rear. Also, make sure you don't have too much rear uptravel as that will cause your rear end to lose traction when you are turning right after breaking hard. Also, decreasing your toe to ) degerees could be beneficial in slowing down your turn-in.


I would do those adjustments in that order.


Anyone else with more Kyosho specific information (I've got a Mugen)?
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Old 04-14-2003, 02:32 AM   #6
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Yup Im2.. Thanks again..
Dif oil - I use standard as per instruction in the stock kit if i not mistaken front - 50000 and Rear is mix between 500 and 50000. Emm... Maybe did cause problem, Yea... let me try to change it Im2. No harm trying
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Old 04-14-2003, 05:30 AM   #7
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I dont know if the V-One RR is like the V-One S.
But u could adjust your caster so that all the blocks are at the front, but this can give sometimes an inconsistent front end understeer on power, so i run 1 small block in the back, all the rest in front.
The caster plays a major role in cornering.
Plus i'd drop your rear toe down to about 1 deg in and see what happens since u could be just dragging the back end around with that much toe in.

Is the car really twitchy down the straight, it so, this oculd be your problem, or running to stiff in the back.

also try laying the rear shocks over a little bit more by using the lower hole on the shock tower.

also, try running 30mm tyres.
lol
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Old 04-14-2003, 05:37 AM   #8
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Plus try a softer rear spring.
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Old 04-14-2003, 06:26 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally posted by V-One S
Plus try a softer rear spring.
I very much agree with your statement that caster has a heavy affect on steering performance and attributes, but when you are using rubber tires, it is usually best to have less caster (more clips in back of top arm). But I think adjustment of caster should be left out of the equation for now as the problem seems to come from too much weight transfer. I personally believe that changing caster should wait until most other tuning, especially until camber has been sorted out (which can be slightly affected by many chassis adjustments that deal with weight transfer), has been zeroed in.

However, I have to disagree with the use of a softer rear spring. The rear spring does most of its work during the exit and the middle of a corner. In cooperation with the rear shock's damping, it does have a slight affect on the corner entry, but it is extremely minimal. As esham said, he is having oversteer mainly on entry of corners so if he wanted to change springs, I would suggest changing to a harder front spring. Somewhat similar to the taking away of rear uptravel, a harder front spring wouldn't allow the front end to 'dive' into the corner as much, so he would end up with less corner entry steering. An effect that he should find beneficial. (lets not get picky about the differences in what rear uptravel and front spring changes do, suffice that they are somewhat similar in overall effect).
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Old 04-14-2003, 06:31 AM   #10
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I've neva been fully explained changing of springs with how exactly wat part of the corner it affects.
so thank u for informing me
i was always told, softer back and harder front make the car not want to turn in so quickly.

but caster on the V-One RR/S plays a major factor i would say.

if i put all my clips so i have no castor, it is really twitchy and oversteering, but all to the back and it understeers a little. and i only run rubber tyres.

that is just my thought, seeing i race with the sister style car.
but yeah, i'll elt u advise him over me, sorry.
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Old 04-14-2003, 06:35 AM   #11
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also the RR has the sway bars doesnt it.
would u say IM2Lazy to make the front one a bit stiffer?
or is this for mid corner?
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Old 04-14-2003, 06:37 AM   #12
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esham,
I would stick to diff oil such as Mugen or OFNA. They come in a variety of weights and you don't have to worry about mixing or consistency from diff rebuild to rebuild.

Also, I noticed my previous post reffering to toe was a little......incomplete. I meant to talk about the front toe and change it to possibly 0 or 1 degree out. I personally don't believe much to toe-in on touring cars in front.


Try out whichever changes you want, but only one at a time. I know you must have heard this several times before, but I myself often don't pay heed and end up spending much more time practicing when I come to the track with 3 new changes on my car. It may take a lot of time, but go through all the choices you want and obviously keep what you works and you will also be getting in a lot more practice time b4 the qual's and mains then usual, always a good thing.
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Old 04-14-2003, 06:41 AM   #13
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wat about my question with sway bars.
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Old 04-14-2003, 06:44 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally posted by V-One S
also the RR has the sway bars doesnt it.
would u say IM2Lazy to make the front one a bit stiffer?
or is this for mid corner?
This could help, but I would think it would most affect handling in the middle of a corner as this is when a car is usually leaning most. A car has fully commited and leaned all the way over just before you start to re-center the steering. For foams, swaybars are a very important issue as they don't need (or want) as much roll and weight transfer in order to make maximum grip the way foams do. In my mind, however for rubber tires I usually don't like to use them at all and allow droop screws, springs and damping take care of the roll on the car.

sorry, it took me awhile to type it all up. Not the fastest, or cleanest typer.
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Old 04-14-2003, 06:49 AM   #15
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Hope u can sort eshams problem out.
But remember run all but one of the small clips for castor in the front.
other wise any of the V-One range is a dog to drive, they just handle like crap by oversteering.


and then play with other settings.
that is my advise being that wen i started i found it makes a drastic adjustment on handling, specially on turn in at the start of a corner.
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