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Old 05-12-2003, 08:10 AM   #76
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Can elaborate more cos i can't get the difference between loose n push.
My car tends to spin when i tried to power out of the corner so which to adjust?Thanks
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Old 05-12-2003, 05:22 PM   #77
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xax,
Add more front uptravel. This will allow the front end of the car to raise more and more weight will transfer to the rear end allowing your car to gain more rear traction.
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Old 05-19-2003, 10:08 PM   #78
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There was time my LHS setup my car before a race on that day and I notice he change my rear shock link too far apart from the rear tire mount and the rear body mount. As a result the shock piston was extended (Extract) to the max. And when I lift up my car off ground the rear tire mount actualy pull up! It can't be right! Maybe this partly cause the oversteer problem. As the droop is neg. I think.

So.. I change the shock mount location. This make the shock "push" the rear tire mount down. I need to test this. And I will give you all the result.
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Old 06-02-2003, 08:22 PM   #79
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Default Alignment set

Hello everbody, is anybody know which site that i can refer on using my new alignment set from eagle racing. In the set did came with a piece of instruction paper but written in japanese.
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Old 06-05-2003, 09:00 PM   #80
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I review back my setting - I notice the camber is probable too much 3.5. So I reduce it as to get more traction on the rear tires.
The statement is :-
1. More negative camber more stable but less traction

Emm. am i correct?

Than second is I set my droop front and back
Front - More droop as to get better exit on power - The car tend to push abit

Rear - Less droop as to get better entering a corner off power. If too much droop on rear my car will tend too loose ( Spin)

That conclude of setting for time being..

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Old 06-06-2003, 05:43 PM   #81
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I personally use the camber adjustment mostly for even tire wear. Most onroad racers do that now as well, but if you use rubber tires you can look into it more. If you use foam tires, I'd look elsewhere because of the effect that coned tires have on handling helps nothing except to increase your lap times (bad).

Your observation of the effects of rear droop is true, but I tend to disagree with your view of front droop. I find I get more steering when I have less uptravel in the front. I haven't done too much droop setting tests for my foam tire setup (because it is the same setup I use for rubber tires ), but what you say could be true for foam tires, because, unlike rubber tires, they don't need a lot of weight on them to work properly (one reason swaybars are helpful for foams). But I think that more front uptravel on any car (foam or rubber tires) will have less steering coming out of a corner.
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Old 06-06-2003, 05:46 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally posted by esham
I review back my setting - I notice the camber is probable too much 3.5.
I actually run 3 degrees of camber in the rear... sometimes 4, but it is always because of tire wear.
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Old 06-06-2003, 09:42 PM   #83
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Default 3-4 degrees of CAMBER!!!???

Guys;

I truly believe if you need to run that much Camber, your suspension is too soft and the chassis is rolling over.
Have you tried Stiffer Springs and/or Sway Bars?
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Old 06-06-2003, 10:00 PM   #84
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Yeah I have tried many things, but it just works.

My track is extremely tight, and is chock-full of 180 degree turns and three-turn chicanes that fit within 15 feet of space... It is tight . But if I get rid of too much roll, things just don't work.

Our track is something like 160-180 feet by 60 feet, so some parts are open, but most of it is extremely tight. If I was in So Cal (wish I were, for the tracks at least), there probably wouldn't be a single track that I would think of as tight (you never know though).


The high amount of camber allows me to pitch the car in low speed corners while still having the proper amount of grip during the higher speed stuff.


Josh Cryul once said that you should never keep the option of up to 5 degrees of negative camber as an option... I don't go that exagerrated in terms of negative camber, but Cryul is Cryul... he's fast, so he must know a lot that I don't.
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Old 06-13-2003, 01:59 AM   #85
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Emm almost give up with this V1RR setup.. Oversteer and now understeer !!I really stupid with this setting....AAaaagh
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Old 06-14-2003, 12:46 AM   #86
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Can you find one of the local fast guys to help you out? That is always the best way to get yourself faster. As long as they are willing to share their knowledge and spend time teaching you what to do (which many are undoubtedly willing to do) then that would help you tremendously.

Onroad racing is a very difficult discipline of the rc racing sector because for guys that don't quite know, it seems impossible to really zero-in onto a good setup. While some people say that setup counts for a lot less than driving skill... I think they underestimate (or just forget) the problems a tweaked chassis and the wrong tires have on a car. That is the thing about the extremely competetive nature of onroad racing... if you don't have a decent setup... there is no way you can hang with the fast guys. Once you have a decent setup, then the real honing in of driving skills begins.
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Old 06-15-2003, 09:49 PM   #87
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Ya you right Im2lazy, actually i did asked the local faster driver on my setup and infact they did tested my car. That is always a time that all is ok everthing work fine.. I can do alot with my car on that time, smooth cornering and speed. But once it come different venue and track I can't really catch up the setting right. Tires and setup seem like loose and my driving is suck!. I need to study and test alot about traction i think.

Recently i bought one of the faster engine - RB Rody tune 5 port to push to limit ( push my money out ! ) and I'm thinking to setup another car for racing purpose either another V1RR or MTX3. Hopefully with consistent practise and testing will have me in future.. I need to cool down
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Old 06-16-2003, 09:58 AM   #88
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Quote:
Originally posted by esham
Emm almost give up with this V1RR setup.. Oversteer and now understeer !!I really stupid with this setting....AAaaagh
Car handling is all abt balance....try to start with stock set-up as a starting point...shld be a good set-up for most tracks....
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Old 06-16-2003, 04:52 PM   #89
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Quote:
Originally posted by esham
...I need to study and test alot about traction i think...

...Hopefully with consistent practise and testing will have me in future....

Driving is a very very important part of racing. I've had setups that I felt were bad, and still did good because my driving was good, while I have also had good setups that I drove poorly with. Consistency with your driving will not only make you a faster racer, but a better tuner because it is easier to tell what you need to change when you are concentrating on what your car is doing rather than on what you think you might hit next.


Also, when you are talking to the fast guys about what they do to get their cars so fast, also ask them why they do what they do. Every change is done for a purpose and it isa lmost always a carefully chosen decision and ask them why that is so. Doing this will give you an idea of what certain things do to a car, and what your car may need if you meet similar conditions later.
I personally haave a setup book in which I put my own setups so that I can refer to them later in order to help comprehend the dynamics of a vehicle.
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Old 06-16-2003, 04:59 PM   #90
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Also, the multiple car idea, not the greatest one. Some people that have multiple cars sometimes opt to just race one car because when you have two cars, there is a lot more to think about. Just imagine if a weather front that makes the atmosphere more humid and 5 degrees cooler, but also kicks up the wind 10 or 15 miles per hour faster, and having to retune two engines for the new conditions as well as testing a new set of tires on each car all within the time that you usually would just spend on one car? It doesn't really help things. I say, if you have enough problems already with one car, one more is definitely not the fix.
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