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Old 04-16-2003, 03:53 PM   #31
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When you get the engine back together, Check the compression (do not follow the instuctions), pull the pull start about 5 times realy quick, You can pull the pull start as many times as you like, the gauge will only go up to the max compression of the engine. I asume you have the 15fe, that engine should read about 30 psi.
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Old 04-16-2003, 04:15 PM   #32
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ok, i got the flywheel off and changes the shoes, flywheel, collet and washers. now when i put the cluth bell on and put the screw in the middle to hold the cluthbell, how tight should i make the screw. if i make it to tight, the clutch bell doesnt move to turn the spur gear. and if i make it too loose, it makes the clanging sound. is thier a certain trick to it?
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Old 04-16-2003, 04:52 PM   #33
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Hmm, sounds like the washer is getting trapped against the bearing in the bell. Try using a thinner washer or figure a way to get everything sitting further back on the shaft towards the engine.
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Old 04-16-2003, 04:53 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally posted by ImportRacer1187
[B]though i want a piston locking tool...B]
I have one of those too. Its called a block of softwood
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Old 04-16-2003, 07:19 PM   #35
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lol... doubt that works well... n e wayz a piston locking tool can kill the conrod... thats why flywheel tools are better...
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Old 04-17-2003, 04:25 AM   #36
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Alucard13,
maybe I'm not understanding what modelor is saying, but it sounds like you need to put more washers behind the clutchbell bearing. On the side between the pilot shaft and the clutchbell bearing. You should be able to really torque down on that screw, so you should put some shims back there so the clutchbell doesn't touch the flywheel.
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Old 04-17-2003, 06:23 AM   #37
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Yeah, I never thought about it like that. Been so long since I used a standard clutch. I was thinking that the front screw and washer was trapping against the bell. But like Im2Lazy says you may need to put washers behind the bell if it is being pushed against the flywheel and jamming.
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Old 04-17-2003, 06:27 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally posted by ImportRacer1187
lol... doubt that works well... n e wayz a piston locking tool can kill the conrod... thats why flywheel tools are better...
The softwood block does work. Its not actually soft but it wont damage the pistoon like metal tools. The only problem is getting it sanded down to the right shape to slide snuggly into the case of the engine.

As for flywheel tools, if you use lock n seal on all the threads on the shaft some of these tools that lock onto the pins on the flywheel can actually bend the pins if the nut doesnt come loose to easy.
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Old 04-17-2003, 06:31 AM   #39
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You are talking about the washer that goes over the pilot shaft down to the clutch shoes right? I only have one washer between that and the bearing. I should put another one on then? I did all that work last night and the thing still slows down and stops just like before. Oh well, at least i know how to take the flywheel and clutch bell off now.
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Old 04-17-2003, 09:40 AM   #40
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Default Piston Locking Toll

Guys;

The Best, safest way that I've found to lock the Piston is too remove the Glowplug and put about 10 drops of after-run oil in. Re-install the glowplug and turn the engine with the plug facing down. Slowly turn the flywheel until the piston is hydraulicly locked by the oil. Then use a pair of Channel Locks to hold the Flywheel. Works everytime and no damage to the engine (just don't drop it).
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Old 04-17-2003, 03:28 PM   #41
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some more news. it looks as though my pipe is the problem. i took it to my lhs and he says the pipe might have something clogged in it and that alot of the hpi cars come in with the same problem. so, tomorrow i will let you know how it goes. I went ahead and bought a better pipe
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Old 04-18-2003, 03:30 PM   #42
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ok, i got the car back with the new pipe and its running ALOT better now. So, after a new tank, fuel lines and flywheel it turns out it was the pipe
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