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Old 01-04-2010, 05:07 AM   #1606
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Hi guyz... im barely new in that hobby.. i had a 1/10 scale nt1 for about 1 and a half season and i was thinking of swiching in 1/8 with motonica.
I know is a very different think but is true that i need a biiiiiger budget for that scale...???
I mean how you have to be rich for that scale? how much more money i have to invest comparing to 1/10 for each race???
Thanks for understanding guyz!!
Its not that expensive mate - if your gonna do 1/10th and play with the top end it can be expensive, but if you know your products you can still be competitive at a decent budget!

All form of racing has expense, but keeping it fun and enjoyable and knowing car/engine setup will make it more easier on the back burner!

I have come from a 1/10th class and this year 2010 will be my very first 1/8th scale racing, i have had to buy a few engines / parts and tools, but once your set its manageable!

if your Local Hobby shop dont stock much items check out the online stores overseas!

Just keep it simple and you will enjoy some fast racing, maybe use the first year or 2 to learn the car and style of racing "This is what my goals are this year is to get up to speed fast and understand the tricks of the trade"!

Good luck and happy racing!
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Old 01-04-2010, 11:31 AM   #1607
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You are the 1st one you are saying that its not that expensive!! I dont know what to do!! The only thing i know its that I want to race that scale... its not for children
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Old 01-04-2010, 02:02 PM   #1608
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Off course 1/8 scale is more expensive.

The tires are about double the price, and in the same 5 minutes of driving a 1/8 drinks 125 cc's of fuel against the 75cc's from a 1/10. Plus the fuel costs more.
The kits are more expensive and so are the engines.
So pretty much everything about an 1/8 scale is more expensive as a 1/10.

I think you can add about at least 30-40% to your 1/10 budget if you want to run 1/8.
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Old 01-06-2010, 08:03 AM   #1609
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Hey Guys, i just bought a 50T rear gear for the back end of the Motonica, now few questions are raised:

What gearing change will this do to the car?

Do i need to change tire split / Spurs / Pinions?


Cheers
Frankie
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Old 01-07-2010, 12:07 PM   #1610
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I was talking with some friends today (motonica+xray distributors) to purchase a Motonica kit and the their advise was like that :

When you install ANY .21 engine on road you start with don't. What i mean....
DONT tune it too much cause ... etc...
DONT run more than 2 races cause you need new rod,bearings...etc...

The meaning was that .21 on-road engines are more sensitive that the .12 engines, and the propose to stick again with the xray as i was...

Is that true??
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Old 01-07-2010, 03:32 PM   #1611
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Quote:
Originally Posted by staikosn1 View Post
I was talking with some friends today (motonica+xray distributors) to purchase a Motonica kit and the their advise was like that :

When you install ANY .21 engine on road you start with don't. What i mean....
DONT tune it too much cause ... etc...
DONT run more than 2 races cause you need new rod,bearings...etc...

The meaning was that .21 on-road engines are more sensitive that the .12 engines, and the propose to stick again with the xray as i was...

Is that true??
I disagree, i have had a Nova N21-T ran over 8 litres and only just replaced the rod, Honestly i think it didnt need replacing, but since i going to test a new Crank i thought why not give it some love.

The engine pricing are very similar to even!

Yes tyres up by a tab but not massive!

Parts pretty similar, some parts might varry.

I think its very affordable if you plan your rc package the smart way.

Any class will take money from the back burner, just depends how far you want to go in the end!
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Old 01-07-2010, 11:30 PM   #1612
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Ok, but engines pricing are not similar, the budget increases +300,400 bucks for 1/8 when i was searching about all stuffs....
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Old 01-08-2010, 11:11 PM   #1613
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Quote:
Originally Posted by staikosn1 View Post
but engines pricing are not similar, the budget increases +300,400 bucks for 1/8
It's really quite SIMPLE -

If you think 1/8 gas is too expensive - do NOT race that type of car !!!

You asked a question(s), you got answers - if you don't agree don't buy a 1/8 car.

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Old 01-09-2010, 01:31 PM   #1614
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Nah...ill do it... Motonica - RB C9!!!

Thank you guyz !!!!
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Old 01-10-2010, 10:46 AM   #1615
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Good decision, you will like the car very much.

As for the 50T rear pulley, according to Motonica Italy it will increase steering. I have not yet tried one.
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Old 01-10-2010, 12:55 PM   #1616
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Hi guys.
I ve now managed to do about 20 full tanks of practice with my P81 in 4 different visits to the race track. So about 5 tanks on each visit. It's not a lot but its the most I have ever managed to practice and it makes a huge difference.
Coming from winning 3 national championships in electric 190mm touring cars I was at a complete loss on how to correctly tune a 1/8 gas car and although a lot of reading was invested in getting things right from the start, its one thing to understand the theory and a whole different thing to actually apply the instructions correctly in real life.

Anyway my car is finally behaving in a way that suits me; it is fast, with lots of turn in, directional accuracy, precise braking behavior and lightning fast change of direction through "S" sections on the track.
There is now one little thing I would like to improve.
The behavior of the car coming out of very tight corners, "haipins" is OK but not ideal and this affects my rhythm and consistency.
It seems that either my clutch is engaging too soon, or my engine is too reach. I will test different settings next time I practice, first by tightenning the clutch spring load, but I am afraind this will change the behavior of my car in other sections of the track.
What I want to achieve is a clean, instant throttle reaction without the smallest hesitation from my motor/transmition.
Any advise would be much appreciated.
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Old 01-10-2010, 04:46 PM   #1617
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Originally Posted by John Doucakis View Post
Hi guys.
I ve now managed to do about 20 full tanks of practice with my P81 in 4 different visits to the race track. So about 5 tanks on each visit. It's not a lot but its the most I have ever managed to practice and it makes a huge difference.
Coming from winning 3 national championships in electric 190mm touring cars I was at a complete loss on how to correctly tune a 1/8 gas car and although a lot of reading was invested in getting things right from the start, its one thing to understand the theory and a whole different thing to actually apply the instructions correctly in real life.

Anyway my car is finally behaving in a way that suits me; it is fast, with lots of turn in, directional accuracy, precise braking behavior and lightning fast change of direction through "S" sections on the track.
There is now one little thing I would like to improve.
The behavior of the car coming out of very tight corners, "haipins" is OK but not ideal and this affects my rhythm and consistency.
It seems that either my clutch is engaging too soon, or my engine is too reach. I will test different settings next time I practice, first by tightenning the clutch spring load, but I am afraind this will change the behavior of my car in other sections of the track.
What I want to achieve is a clean, instant throttle reaction without the smallest hesitation from my motor/transmition.
Any advise would be much appreciated.

If you get a chance post up a setup mate id be keen to see some new ideas you may have.

Lately i have been chatting with Robin D'Hondt he has some great information and everytime i listen i apply and i feel the new changes.



Question for all on here - how to set the 2speed shoes, plus how to set the cam with the ball bearings correctly?

I had such bad luck first time around with the 2 speed as it was just - well to make more sense the little grub screws where you adjust the ball bearing kept coming loose!

Why does this happen? and whats the best method to set and stop from being inconsistant.

I have gone and ordered the following - Another Motonica 2speed set & from speaking to Robin, he too has advised to use the MRX4 mugen 2speed set.

Cheers for and advise!
Frankie
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Old 01-11-2010, 12:58 AM   #1618
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Place a very small drop of CA glue on the set screws. You'll still be able to adjust them, but they will never come loose. Also, clean them before installing them, along with all other fasteners. They come from the factory with a coat of oil or something. Wipe them in a rag and you'll see.

The way I set the 2 speed is tighten the 2 main screws equally until the 2 shoes are difficult to pull apart by hand (then later adjust as needed on the track). Tighten the 2 set screws so the center axle can rock back and forth just slightly.
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Old 01-21-2010, 02:36 AM   #1619
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Hi guys
I'm Sergio from Italy
...Have someone try new Ergal Front upper suspension arm mount?

Sergio
Team RcDriveR's member!
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Old 01-21-2010, 12:59 PM   #1620
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They are due to arrive in the US next week.
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