Mugen MTX-4 VS Xray NT1
04-19-2007, 03:39 PM
#31
Tech Addict
Originally Posted by hav_lova
This is turning into the biggest case of he said she said... Dude, your quoting rumours on here, maybe wait until the cars hit the hobby shops before you start saying things like that on RCtech
I just hope everyone remembers this quote, if you haven't seen it printed on paper or on a site with a solid price, don't say anything until the NT1 is out.
Here in AUS the Xray drivers ran a BOX STOCK NT1 in the state titles and made it into the A final with no problems. The cars were as packed by xray, built per instructions!
I just hope everyone remembers this quote, if you haven't seen it printed on paper or on a site with a solid price, don't say anything until the NT1 is out.
Here in AUS the Xray drivers ran a BOX STOCK NT1 in the state titles and made it into the A final with no problems. The cars were as packed by xray, built per instructions!
Seriously, I was told this by more than one person. That the Nt1 will cost more than every other kit and that the car driven today are not stock. If he was wrong so be it, but it humors me that you get offended by wrong info.
I don't care either way because I'll never buy one (no LHS near me will carry parts and my RRR is fine yet). I guess the thing is, going back to the OP, is that the MTX-4 is no worse than the NT1 nor would it be considered any leap ahead. Thusly, waiting for an NT1 would solely be based on brand loyalty or personal taste/preference. The performance of each has been proven by many racers all over the world at this point. Either kit would do fine and for a first time nitro racer, is more than enough car provided you have a quality electronics package and engine. That fair enough?
04-20-2007, 02:40 AM
#32
I run xray T2 electric and mugen mtx4. It cost $25 for each of the universal dogbone for the xray t2. Just the replacement bone. It is a $370 kit when I bought it. It will cost $100 just to buy 4 universal dog bones. $35-$40 for a front shock tower.
I run mugen mtx4 also, it cost $17 for two universal dog bones. so it is $8 each vs $25. The front shock tower is $8.
Before you decide on a car, cost of parts and availability of parts are also very important. Remember, you can't run if your car is broken and you can't get the parts. Mugen parts will be cheaper than xray parts for sure.
In case of team drivers, I don't think they run cars box stock. They all have things that we can't get yet. You can't tell by just looking at their cars. They will even say their car is stock if the hopup are not obvious. My friend has a machine shop. He always makes prototype hop up for local team drivers upon their request. Sometimes he gets a prototype car before it is released so he can do some hop up parts. Car companies make more money from selling hop up and normal parts than selling a kit.
I run mugen mtx4 also, it cost $17 for two universal dog bones. so it is $8 each vs $25. The front shock tower is $8.
Before you decide on a car, cost of parts and availability of parts are also very important. Remember, you can't run if your car is broken and you can't get the parts. Mugen parts will be cheaper than xray parts for sure.
In case of team drivers, I don't think they run cars box stock. They all have things that we can't get yet. You can't tell by just looking at their cars. They will even say their car is stock if the hopup are not obvious. My friend has a machine shop. He always makes prototype hop up for local team drivers upon their request. Sometimes he gets a prototype car before it is released so he can do some hop up parts. Car companies make more money from selling hop up and normal parts than selling a kit.
Last edited by straightaway; 04-20-2007 at 02:57 AM.
04-20-2007, 06:28 AM
#34
nexus racing has all NT1 parts and prices up on their web site.
I think those parts have reasonable prices.
http://nexusracing.net/index.php?cPath=137_253
I think those parts have reasonable prices.
http://nexusracing.net/index.php?cPath=137_253
04-20-2007, 10:54 AM
#35
Here is the part for T2
http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...id=493&id=5928, speedtech is cheaper but at my track they sell for full retail of $25 each.
Here is the part for NT1, 335225
http://nexusracing.net/index.php?cPa...01e597d7c9ed91
you get one xray cvd bone for the price of two mugen CVD bones.
I don't know about other people, but I prefer getting two for the price of one.
Don't get me wrong, I have nothing against xray since I own both and full set of Hudy tools and a hudy break in stand. It is just that people need to be aware of the price of parts and availablity before they decide on a car. It cost a lot of money to run these cars. Some even more. I have seen many people quit becasue it got too expensive to stay in the hobby.
http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...id=493&id=5928, speedtech is cheaper but at my track they sell for full retail of $25 each.
Here is the part for NT1, 335225
http://nexusracing.net/index.php?cPa...01e597d7c9ed91
you get one xray cvd bone for the price of two mugen CVD bones.
I don't know about other people, but I prefer getting two for the price of one.
Don't get me wrong, I have nothing against xray since I own both and full set of Hudy tools and a hudy break in stand. It is just that people need to be aware of the price of parts and availablity before they decide on a car. It cost a lot of money to run these cars. Some even more. I have seen many people quit becasue it got too expensive to stay in the hobby.
04-20-2007, 11:12 AM
#36
LOL someone just cares so much about cvd bone....
I checked and some parts are cheaper some are more $$$$...and some are almost the same $$$....
like spur gear...$6.5 each. that's not bad. front shock tower: $10. upright: $5.25.
IMO, I like team xray forums and set-ups availability on their web site. And the most important thing is that they have a strong team in the states and world wide.
I checked and some parts are cheaper some are more $$$$...and some are almost the same $$$....
like spur gear...$6.5 each. that's not bad. front shock tower: $10. upright: $5.25.
IMO, I like team xray forums and set-ups availability on their web site. And the most important thing is that they have a strong team in the states and world wide.
04-20-2007, 12:06 PM
#37
$5.25 for upright is for one. for about $6.5 you get two from mugen.
The only thing I have to replace on my mtx cars are front CVD bones becasue the impact from a hit is much harder on nitro than electric. The impact I am talking about will destroys some brand of cars. I like to keep my cars in top shape so anything bent I replace. If you like xray all power to you. I have 4 xray T2 (becasue it is the most popular electric on car at socal raceway) so I have nothing against xray. The only thing I am saying is that also take into consideration of the upkeep of the car. It will be helpful to know what you are getting yourself into. When you buy a real Porsche, the sales person is unlikely to tell you it costs $2k to replace a clutch on a 911, but your friend that owns one will tell you and it hurts like hell.
Certain brands of cars have a better support in certain areas of the world. Here in socal nitro on road, Mugen and Kyosho are popular becasue they are local. Go to any club race here, 60-80% of the cars are mugen or kyosho.
Basically if you get a car that has little part availability is that you need to spend tons of money to stock up on parts or buy another kit to use for parts.
The only thing I have to replace on my mtx cars are front CVD bones becasue the impact from a hit is much harder on nitro than electric. The impact I am talking about will destroys some brand of cars. I like to keep my cars in top shape so anything bent I replace. If you like xray all power to you. I have 4 xray T2 (becasue it is the most popular electric on car at socal raceway) so I have nothing against xray. The only thing I am saying is that also take into consideration of the upkeep of the car. It will be helpful to know what you are getting yourself into. When you buy a real Porsche, the sales person is unlikely to tell you it costs $2k to replace a clutch on a 911, but your friend that owns one will tell you and it hurts like hell.
Certain brands of cars have a better support in certain areas of the world. Here in socal nitro on road, Mugen and Kyosho are popular becasue they are local. Go to any club race here, 60-80% of the cars are mugen or kyosho.
Basically if you get a car that has little part availability is that you need to spend tons of money to stock up on parts or buy another kit to use for parts.
04-20-2007, 12:42 PM
#38
I end up spending a lot of money on shipping to get what I want, when the LHS doesn't stock what I'm interested in, they are out of stock or it won't come in on time if I special order it through them.
As has been previously mentioned, this hobby can get expensive. If you're on a fixed budget, then choosing an inexpensive car with good local parts support at a reasonable price is your best first option. Next best option is shop around and find an online store with the lowest prices with shipping rates that make sense.
If you're not on a budget, then you just want to be sure you're not being taken advantage of.
I don't think anyone here really factors in Total Cost of Ownership over time. Is anybody keeping a log book of expenses? I stopped doing that after the first $3000.
Bottom line is, if you take care of your car and don't crash it all the time, it's really not that expensive. I haven't broken anything on my RRRs in months. Accidents happen and that can't be helped.
If you want to drive an NT1 and you don't need to raid the penny jar every time you need to buy consumables for a race, then just buy it.
As has been previously mentioned, this hobby can get expensive. If you're on a fixed budget, then choosing an inexpensive car with good local parts support at a reasonable price is your best first option. Next best option is shop around and find an online store with the lowest prices with shipping rates that make sense.
If you're not on a budget, then you just want to be sure you're not being taken advantage of.
I don't think anyone here really factors in Total Cost of Ownership over time. Is anybody keeping a log book of expenses? I stopped doing that after the first $3000.
Bottom line is, if you take care of your car and don't crash it all the time, it's really not that expensive. I haven't broken anything on my RRRs in months. Accidents happen and that can't be helped.
If you want to drive an NT1 and you don't need to raid the penny jar every time you need to buy consumables for a race, then just buy it.
04-20-2007, 01:45 PM
#39
I think everyone here eventually will forget the total cost of ownership....... it's hobby, and just like you said, you end up paying too much on shipping cost ?...... You will forget that after a month or winning a race. 
OK, seriously, Here is my advice to save wisely :
1. Never stock spare parts too much. Let the shops stock spare parts for you.
2. Only have 1 or 2 cars at maximum. Sell the car as soon as you want something else.
3. Ditto when buying engines, look #2.
4. Don't buy too many hop up options ( no resale value )
5. Setup your car nicely and don't crash too often.
Some people can do the above, and some can't. ( I can't honestly speaking ).
OK, seriously, Here is my advice to save wisely :
1. Never stock spare parts too much. Let the shops stock spare parts for you.
2. Only have 1 or 2 cars at maximum. Sell the car as soon as you want something else.
3. Ditto when buying engines, look #2.
4. Don't buy too many hop up options ( no resale value )
5. Setup your car nicely and don't crash too often.
Some people can do the above, and some can't. ( I can't honestly speaking ).
04-20-2007, 02:08 PM
#40
I can't follow #2 or #3 either. 
Have 3 cars, looking to get a 4th - and a 4th engine. 
Have 3 cars, looking to get a 4th - and a 4th engine.
04-20-2007, 02:16 PM
#41
These car vs. car threads really give me tired head. The 710, MTX4, V one RRR (fill in the blank), and now the NT1 are all comparable to each other. Each may have a feature or two that will enhance a certain racers skills that may be better than the next car. The thing is what a racer really prefers. Personally, I am a Mugen guy when it comes to touring car (MTX2, MTX3, and now the MTX4). I started out with the Serpent Impulse as my first high-end tourer. The reason I changed was because the Mugen was more durable than the Serpent (crashed a lot back in the day). The Yokomo came along and everyone switched over until replacement parts were hard to come by. Then, the NTC3 hit the market and everyone jumped ship again until the diff problems and hassles of working on the car started to factor in. HPI decided to jump into the mix and a few more jumped ship. Then, Kyosho hit the market and a lot of racers switched again. Many stayed with the car but a few switched back to Mugen. Then, Serpent's new car hit the market and many jumped ship again. Now you have Xray's new car coming and many will jump ship again. During all of this, I have stuck with the Mugen, although I did try many of those other cars as a secondary car just to see what all the hype was about. I learned my Mugens during all the others switching and having to re-learn the curve concerning the new car. But let me say this again, "Of the four, no one car is better than the other; they are all comparable and it all depends on what you, the racer, prefer to run (taste)." Everyone has there preference and we should not slap/flame/rag another racer because he/she prefers another brand over the one you run.
04-20-2007, 02:24 PM
#42
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Originally Posted by asw7576
OK, seriously, Here is my advice to save wisely :
1. Never stock spare parts too much. Let the shops stock spare parts for you.
2. Only have 1 or 2 cars at maximum. Sell the car as soon as you want something else.
3. Ditto when buying engines, look #2.
4. Don't buy too many hop up options ( no resale value )
5. Setup your car nicely and don't crash too often.
Some people can do the above, and some can't. ( I can't honestly speaking ).
1. Never stock spare parts too much. Let the shops stock spare parts for you.
2. Only have 1 or 2 cars at maximum. Sell the car as soon as you want something else.
3. Ditto when buying engines, look #2.
4. Don't buy too many hop up options ( no resale value )
5. Setup your car nicely and don't crash too often.
Some people can do the above, and some can't. ( I can't honestly speaking ).
But at least I try to follow number 5! That makes me think: if I don't crash very often, why do I keep so many spares??? 
04-21-2007, 05:49 AM
#44
Originally Posted by Green Machine
Got mine today from LHS downunder Looks sweeeeet now comes the hard part
Looks sweeeeet now comes the hard part
04-21-2007, 07:02 AM
#45
Originally Posted by hav_lova
My dad's one is going together well, i left after dinner and he had built the diffs, i came home at 10:30 and he had it pretty much together, seems like a quick build