1LikesMugen MTX-4R
10-15-2007, 01:31 AM
#677
10-15-2007, 03:05 AM
#678
in my Mtx4 without issues.
I've been running digital servos for both steering and throttle along with a personal transponder for the whole raceday and final 20-30 minutes without charging during the day!
I charge them at 1.2 amps and only use 500-600mah for the whole day
10-15-2007, 05:31 AM
#680
Ill go even further... Before I sold my MTX-4 and changed to a S-car... I used to race IB packs... And ran a 30 minute main then a 45 minute main... Didnt have problems with it. What doesnt work for someone does not necessarily mean it wont work for the rest.
10-15-2007, 10:53 AM
#681
Honestly IMHO you don't have to go overboard to prevent second gear stripping just set the mesh well don't run pinions that are worn as they will start eating pinions and ajdust the second gear clutch so it changes smoothly. I'd suggest you run the car for a while first.
I have stock 3mm and 3racing 3mm chassis (yes, 3Racing). I have hit manythings like solid pole, wall and other cars in teh track. Never strip a single gear at all. Just learn to mesh it properly and you should be fine. btw the only thing I upgrade is skyline engine mount (stock don't fit my STS engine).
Thats what I would think, im my revo a 1100 pack would run 2 steering servos, shifting servo, and throttle servo for well over a LOOOONG days bash..... Just I want to get it right the first time, not buy the thing, and then need a new one, because a RX pack is money that could be into fuel or whatever....
10-15-2007, 11:13 AM
#682
About the 2nd gear... I'll shed some light. Before I made the mistake on selling my MTX-4... I had about 12 aluminum hopups incluiding aluminum monoblock, 4mm chassis and the aluminum brace. I thought this would prevent me from stripping 2nd gear. And maybe it helped, because I didnt strip em unless it was by my mistake. Right now im running a close to stock MTX-4, i mean, 3mm chassis, plastic brace (the arm that goes over the engine), and everything else plastic... And have only stripped 1 2nd gear and it was my fault because i only tighten 1 screw instead of all of them. My advice is this... Take off 2nd gear, mesh it... put 1st gear and it should roll freely still. Also... the clutch should be shimmed from the inside so it doesn't touch the clutch shoe... This prevents the clutch being overheated, restricts the travel of the clutch bell and will help in avoiding to strip gears.
10-15-2007, 11:45 AM
#683
About the 2nd gear... I'll shed some light. Before I made the mistake on selling my MTX-4... I had about 12 aluminum hopups incluiding aluminum monoblock, 4mm chassis and the aluminum brace. I thought this would prevent me from stripping 2nd gear. And maybe it helped, because I didnt strip em unless it was by my mistake. Right now im running a close to stock MTX-4, i mean, 3mm chassis, plastic brace (the arm that goes over the engine), and everything else plastic... And have only stripped 1 2nd gear and it was my fault because i only tighten 1 screw instead of all of them. My advice is this... Take off 2nd gear, mesh it... put 1st gear and it should roll freely still. Also... the clutch should be shimmed from the inside so it doesn't touch the clutch shoe... This prevents the clutch being overheated, restricts the travel of the clutch bell and will help in avoiding to strip gears.
Thanks for the info!
10-15-2007, 12:24 PM
#684
I've seen these cars perform at our local track and they run great... how long has this version been out for and what's the street price??
thanks,
thanks,
10-15-2007, 12:46 PM
#685
the "tracK' I run is made of road dishes but the place is surrounded by solid concrete walls and 4 light ppole in the middle. I survive all the walls and poles. no gear strip. (hit them so many times though)
just mesh it properly, the method use by the other guy is similar to mine. too many alu part will alter the handling of the car. build it right is the best trick to get a top car (MTX, G4S, RRR, 720...) to run good. it will save you a fortune by not buying too many replacement parts and alu blings.
just mesh it properly, the method use by the other guy is similar to mine. too many alu part will alter the handling of the car. build it right is the best trick to get a top car (MTX, G4S, RRR, 720...) to run good. it will save you a fortune by not buying too many replacement parts and alu blings.
10-15-2007, 02:30 PM
#686
they blow
most run lipo or gp thats it.
yours work's thats great.
we have found that the cells die just like the c cells do.
10-15-2007, 02:41 PM
#687
you dont need ti screws light rear shaft front shaft and all that other stuff.
and ill say again ib cells suck for a rx pack but i run the c cells for 1/12 for the voltage but im thinking of getting ep cells for 1/12
you know the cells suck when a guy charges them at .8A and a cell vents.
10-15-2007, 03:46 PM
#688
bor: just come out stock. I have never stripped a gear at speedworld and since I got Bread set right he has not either. we will get your set right, clutch and 2-speed.
10-15-2007, 06:27 PM
#689
4mm chassis the upper deck brace and the rear pod brace.
you dont need ti screws light rear shaft front shaft and all that other stuff.
and ill say again ib cells suck for a rx pack but i run the c cells for 1/12 for the voltage but im thinking of getting ep cells for 1/12
you know the cells suck when a guy charges them at .8A and a cell vents.
you dont need ti screws light rear shaft front shaft and all that other stuff.
and ill say again ib cells suck for a rx pack but i run the c cells for 1/12 for the voltage but im thinking of getting ep cells for 1/12
you know the cells suck when a guy charges them at .8A and a cell vents.
JayL, you run the xray??? I know I know who you are
10-15-2007, 07:18 PM
#690
nope
tamiya 415mre electric on-road
mugen mtx-4 nitro on-road
tamiya 501x off-road electric
tamiya 415mre electric on-road
mugen mtx-4 nitro on-road
tamiya 501x off-road electric