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Old 03-21-2008, 02:08 AM   #1321
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I don't understand how any of this helps you not strip gears. Putting half a thrust bearing inside the clutch will make a huge gap and wont work on some engines e.g. my OS speed's crank isn't long enough to put shims inside the clutch

The kawahara carbon fibre mid brace is the best protection, combine it with the kawahara 1 piece engine mount and a 4mm chassis and you'll be laughing
Also combine them with a good mesh and make sure that the spur housing bearings and 2 speed shaft are in good condition will make stripping gears a rare ocurrance
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Old 03-21-2008, 02:11 AM   #1322
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I wonder if anyone has used the Kawahara front aluminium upper hinge mounts with 2 hinge position settings?
How does the different settings change the handling of the car compared to just using the standard plastic ones?
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Old 03-24-2008, 07:53 AM   #1323
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I wonder if anyone has used the Kawahara front aluminium upper hinge mounts with 2 hinge position settings?
How does the different settings change the handling of the car compared to just using the standard plastic ones?


What are the hinge pin changes on the Kawahara set?
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Old 03-24-2008, 08:20 AM   #1324
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It it allows for a short or long upper arm setup.

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Old 03-24-2008, 08:41 AM   #1325
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If it just straight up and down then I don't really see much use for it. since you can just use spacers for that......
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Old 03-24-2008, 08:41 AM   #1326
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The build is almost finished. I'm trying to wire up the radio tray. Is anybody using a switch? I was considering it, but it looks like it would be an absolute mess to wire, since the switch is mounted at the top of the transponder mount.

This also begs the question of anyone running a Li-po in the car. Where and how would the regulator be mounted?
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Old 03-24-2008, 08:47 AM   #1327
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Originally Posted by spenzalii View Post
The build is almost finished. I'm trying to wire up the radio tray. Is anybody using a switch? I was considering it, but it looks like it would be an absolute mess to wire, since the switch is mounted at the top of the transponder mount.

This also begs the question of anyone running a Li-po in the car. Where and how would the regulator be mounted?

I don't use a switch for the same reason........
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Old 03-24-2008, 10:36 AM   #1328
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I don't use a switch either.

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Old 03-24-2008, 11:03 AM   #1329
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If it just straight up and down then I don't really see much use for it. since you can just use spacers for that......
I've never seen these mounts not sure if it moves vertically or if it has any horizontal movement
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Old 03-24-2008, 11:20 AM   #1330
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I've never seen these mounts not sure if it moves vertically or if it has any horizontal movement
If it moves the pins horizontal. I'm guessing it will be more reactive with a shorter link or pins moved outside.......

These type of options might be worth a try if you go to a lot of different tracks which I don't. I pretty much go to 1 to 2 tracks on a regular basis..
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Old 03-24-2008, 12:19 PM   #1331
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Old 03-24-2008, 12:54 PM   #1332
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I'd rather not add the weight so high up on the chassis
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Old 03-24-2008, 01:19 PM   #1333
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It's really not much weigh and not that high since it's pretty close to the upper deck........

I'm curious how it will work with the optional outer pin position.....
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Old 03-24-2008, 01:27 PM   #1334
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I think the horizontal design is pointless. If I put on the outer holes, two things will happen :

My front track width will be wider if I want to keep negative camber

My front camber will be 0 if I want to keep the same trackwidth
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Old 03-24-2008, 01:31 PM   #1335
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I think the horizontal design is pointless. If I put on the outer holes, two things will happen :

My front track width will be wider if I want to keep negative camber

My front camber will be 0 if I want to keep the same trackwidth

You have to reset your camber settings with the pivot balls.....
Although the MTX-4 is already good but I always get curios when things like this pop up....
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