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Old 03-10-2008, 12:35 PM   #1291
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thanks guy for all the information ...i'm tring to dial this car ,,,i went to the track for awhile its loose coming out the corners i'm using 10k diff in the rear thinking about changing it to 30k ..will that help or what you guys recomend?
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Old 03-10-2008, 07:23 PM   #1292
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yes it pretty good ...but on the same track i drove my tc3 the car move more freely but the tc3 is using a regular 2 shoe clutch.....mugen is tighter ...just hard for me to explain ..not trying to compare apples to oranges ...but when i get on the throttle and let go car slows down....now when i get back on it is hesitate......i'm to get some understanding on the car on what i'm doing wrong
Hey dude call me, old phone died and I lost most of my numbers. When you coming to the bowl? PT is not the place to tweak that car.
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Old 03-11-2008, 02:50 AM   #1293
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thanks guy for all the information ...i'm tring to dial this car ,,,i went to the track for awhile its loose coming out the corners i'm using 10k diff in the rear thinking about changing it to 30k ..will that help or what you guys recomend?
in my opinion, the 30k would make it worse. it seems like you do not have enough weight transferring to the front of the car. try adding more droop in the front and maybe even add a bit of tow in in the rear.
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Old 03-12-2008, 12:21 PM   #1294
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Hey dude call me, old phone died and I lost most of my numbers. When you coming to the bowl? PT is not the place to tweak that car.
i would to this weekend possible saturday
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Old 03-12-2008, 04:39 PM   #1295
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i would to this weekend possible saturday
Can you come Sunday? It's a race day for the Go/ RC club.
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Old 03-12-2008, 04:42 PM   #1296
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thanks guy for all the information ...i'm tring to dial this car ,,,i went to the track for awhile its loose coming out the corners i'm using 10k diff in the rear thinking about changing it to 30k ..will that help or what you guys recomend?
Change the rear roll center. Make it lower by raising the rear lower hinge pins with the inserts. There's 3 locations, all the way down(stock,looser), middle, and all the way up( most rear traction).
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Old 03-13-2008, 04:43 AM   #1297
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Change the rear roll center. Make it lower by raising the rear lower hinge pins with the inserts. There's 3 locations, all the way down(stock,looser), middle, and all the way up( most rear traction).
I'd add front droop and rear toe first. I assume if the car is loose with 10k that the track is very low grip?
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Old 03-17-2008, 12:26 PM   #1298
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So I finally took the plunge and got the Mugen. I went on and got the 4mm chasis and rear shock tower while I was at it. Reading thru all the threads and listening to C. Whit, it appears there aren't any more 'must have' hop ups for the car (except maybe the aluminum side brace and the clutch setup), so I will probably start putting it together as is this week.

3 quick questions: Right now, I'm running my Hitec digital servos. I didn't see which mounts to use in the manual (Airtronics, Futaba, JR and KO are represented just fine) Which ones should I use?

Second: I have seen cars with the aluminum upper arm mounts. Are they worth it?

Third: I may go for a monoblock engine mount at some point. I vaguely remember reading some mounts didn't play nicely with some 4mm chasis. I got the Mugen version (I'll check the part number when I get home). Will there be an issue with the monoblock? Or should I save the money and just use the stock version?
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Old 03-17-2008, 12:31 PM   #1299
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Change the rear roll center. Make it lower by raising the rear lower hinge pins with the inserts. There's 3 locations, all the way down(stock,looser), middle, and all the way up( most rear traction).

You are correct but raising the inner pivot point of the lower a-arms will raise the roll center which in give less traction. The lowest point gives the most traction the highest point gives the least traction when referenced to roll center.
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Old 03-17-2008, 12:45 PM   #1300
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Originally Posted by spenzalii View Post
So I finally took the plunge and got the Mugen. I went on and got the 4mm chasis and rear shock tower while I was at it. Reading thru all the threads and listening to C. Whit, it appears there aren't any more 'must have' hop ups for the car (except maybe the aluminum side brace and the clutch setup), so I will probably start putting it together as is this week.

3 quick questions: Right now, I'm running my Hitec digital servos. I didn't see which mounts to use in the manual (Airtronics, Futaba, JR and KO are represented just fine) Which ones should I use?

Second: I have seen cars with the aluminum upper arm mounts. Are they worth it?

Third: I may go for a monoblock engine mount at some point. I vaguely remember reading some mounts didn't play nicely with some 4mm chasis. I got the Mugen version (I'll check the part number when I get home). Will there be an issue with the monoblock? Or should I save the money and just use the stock version?
As far as which servo mount to use I believe I used the one that keep the servo as close as possible to the main chassis. I'm using a JR servo. If you use the wrong servo mount you won't be able to mount the top plate because the bottom of the servo will hit the main chassis.

The aluminum upper mounts are a way of changing the front roll center on the fly. The car already has a way to do the same job with the 1mm flat spacers that mount under the upper arm brace. Also the alluminum adds weight high up on the car. I believe kawahara made a set of these. I don't see a need for these in my opinion.

The mono block is a nice addition; but I don't run one. I do know certain manufactures mono-block do not fit the 4mm mugen chassis. You will have to do your homework on that one.

Race you later...
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Old 03-17-2008, 12:50 PM   #1301
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Originally Posted by spenzalii View Post
So I finally took the plunge and got the Mugen. I went on and got the 4mm chasis and rear shock tower while I was at it. Reading thru all the threads and listening to C. Whit, it appears there aren't any more 'must have' hop ups for the car (except maybe the aluminum side brace and the clutch setup), so I will probably start putting it together as is this week.

3 quick questions: Right now, I'm running my Hitec digital servos. I didn't see which mounts to use in the manual (Airtronics, Futaba, JR and KO are represented just fine) Which ones should I use?

Second: I have seen cars with the aluminum upper arm mounts. Are they worth it?

Third: I may go for a monoblock engine mount at some point. I vaguely remember reading some mounts didn't play nicely with some 4mm chasis. I got the Mugen version (I'll check the part number when I get home). Will there be an issue with the monoblock? Or should I save the money and just use the stock version?
A1 : you have to try the servo shim thickness to get the most possible straight combination for the steering horn movement.

A2. No need. It added weight on top. If you want, the lower alluminum suspension block it's nice to keep it lower CG, and keep the lower suspension hinge pins straight from moderate side impacts.

A3. One piece engine mounting is not necessary, especially when you are already using 4mm chassis. Instead, buy alluminium wheel hex : 1mm offset for rear and 0mm offset for front.
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Mugen MTX-4R-mtx4-005xx.jpg  
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Old 03-17-2008, 01:50 PM   #1302
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spenzalii : this is what I did to my mtx4 to minimize disaster from 2nd gear broken syndrome.
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Mugen MTX-4R-2speed.jpg   Mugen MTX-4R-base.jpg   Mugen MTX-4R-bulkhead.jpg   Mugen MTX-4R-centax.jpg   Mugen MTX-4R-dremel.jpg  

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Old 03-17-2008, 04:15 PM   #1303
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You are correct but raising the inner pivot point of the lower a-arms will raise the roll center which in give less traction. The lowest point gives the most traction the highest point gives the least traction when referenced to roll center.
Sorry dude but that is incorrect. I use to think the exact same thing until I took a test day and tried all locations myself. Raising the pins lowers the roll center. Lowering the pins makes the car rotate better because the rear is looser. Try it and see.
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Old 03-17-2008, 04:40 PM   #1304
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Originally Posted by spenzalii View Post
So I finally took the plunge and got the Mugen. I went on and got the 4mm chasis and rear shock tower while I was at it. Reading thru all the threads and listening to C. Whit, it appears there aren't any more 'must have' hop ups for the car (except maybe the aluminum side brace and the clutch setup), so I will probably start putting it together as is this week.

3 quick questions: Right now, I'm running my Hitec digital servos. I didn't see which mounts to use in the manual (Airtronics, Futaba, JR and KO are represented just fine) Which ones should I use?

Second: I have seen cars with the aluminum upper arm mounts. Are they worth it?

Third: I may go for a monoblock engine mount at some point. I vaguely remember reading some mounts didn't play nicely with some 4mm chasis. I got the Mugen version (I'll check the part number when I get home). Will there be an issue with the monoblock? Or should I save the money and just use the stock version?
I also just got the 4r and Im going to race a 301 raceway. Just run the car the way it is, you have the 4mm chassis and tower thats all I think you need. Mine out of the box is very hooked, Im running the spool instead of the oneway. Only change I made from the stock setup is I went to 30,000 in the rear diff. my car was very good the first time on the track, thats even with the kit tires and they werent even trued down, ran them just like they were out of the box. I also think I ran -4 degree camber in the rear and -3 up front.
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Old 03-17-2008, 04:41 PM   #1305
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oh yeah, I also run a hitech steering servo, I think I used the futaba mounts.
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