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Old 03-08-2008, 03:59 PM   #1276
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Originally Posted by Nitrorea View Post
This is my first Mugen/on road kit so just bear with me here. So I just finished installing the engine and all of the gears and everything look fine but I have one question--let me try and explain.

Ok--so the car is sitting flat on the ground and I push it forward, while pushing forward I can hold the spur gears still with my thumb and the car still rolls.

If I roll the car backwards I cannot hold the spur gears still without stopping the car.

Does this sound right? I am positive that I put everything together the right way so I just want to make sure I am doing everything right.

Here is a video that I just did demonstrating what I am talking about. Sorry for the bad lighting but you can see that I can hold the spur gears still and still move the car forward.




Thanks for any help...
Yes that sounds right because there is a one-way in the 1st gear. The 2nd gear only engages at speed and pushing it by hand will not do the job. So all sounds fine...
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Old 03-09-2008, 12:10 AM   #1277
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I am new and just getting my MTX4R but am still unsure of the engine. I see that Ninja and OS TZ SpecII are favorites, but since I am just trading up from the Tamiya TG10.MK2, will these be good engines for me? Or should I try something mid-range? I am also looking at the OSTZ12 5 port.

Any suggestions welcome. Thanks!

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Old 03-09-2008, 01:06 AM   #1278
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I am new and just getting my MTX4R but am still unsure of the engine. I see that Ninja and OS TZ SpecII are favorites, but since I am just trading up from the Tamiya TG10.MK2, will these be good engines for me? Or should I try something mid-range? I am also looking at the OSTZ12 5 port.

Any suggestions welcome. Thanks!

There are many choices out there and since your moving up from the Tamiya TG10.MK2 i would first suggest looking at the os tz range. Either the tz12 3port or 5port like you say would be a good choice, very cheap engines with great performance and replacement parts are not overly expensive.
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Old 03-09-2008, 08:53 PM   #1279
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I have a question about my clutch...the track i'm run on is kinda medium with tight turns i notice when i pull the throttle it hesitate just a tad bit then it launch and when i let off the throttle the car slow down to almost stop ....i adjust the brakes but still doing the same... so my question is do i need to tighten the clutch or any idea what i need to do?

thanks
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Old 03-09-2008, 09:21 PM   #1280
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Did you check your drag brake also.
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Old 03-09-2008, 09:35 PM   #1281
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yes it pretty good ...but on the same track i drove my tc3 the car move more freely but the tc3 is using a regular 2 shoe clutch.....mugen is tighter ...just hard for me to explain ..not trying to compare apples to oranges ...but when i get on the throttle and let go car slows down....now when i get back on it is hesitate......i'm to get some understanding on the car on what i'm doing wrong
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Old 03-09-2008, 10:15 PM   #1282
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Fairly new to Nitro racing and just getting back to racing RC cars again from a long layoff, but I do have a couple of Clutch questions too. Tightening the clutch does what?? Loosening does what to the clutch? What are the differences in the colors of the clutches, grey, yellow, and red by Mugen???
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Old 03-09-2008, 11:54 PM   #1283
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Fairly new to Nitro racing and just getting back to racing RC cars again from a long layoff, but I do have a couple of Clutch questions too. Tightening the clutch does what?? Loosening does what to the clutch? What are the differences in the colors of the clutches, grey, yellow, and red by Mugen???
tightening the clutch nut raises the rpm at witch the clutch engages loosening lowers the engagement point witch will make the car sluggish out of the corners on the clutch shoes grey is standard yellow shoe grabs more on the clutch bell red not sure of that but know that it is harder shoe hope im right & this helps mugen baby if im wrong maybe someone can help out
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Old 03-10-2008, 06:10 AM   #1284
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tightening the clutch nut raises the rpm at witch the clutch engages loosening lowers the engagement point witch will make the car sluggish out of the corners on the clutch shoes grey is standard yellow shoe grabs more on the clutch bell red not sure of that but know that it is harder shoe hope im right & this helps mugen baby if im wrong maybe someone can help out
thanks you help alot because my car were sluggish coming out of corners
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Old 03-10-2008, 06:30 AM   #1285
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thanks you help alot because my car were sluggish coming out of corners
What SOLOARTIST says above is correct but check the tune of your engine as well as the clutch gap. Lastly, to fine tune, look at gearing.
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Old 03-10-2008, 07:07 AM   #1286
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can someone please tell me how many teeth are on each of the mtx4 belts please?

thank you
John
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Old 03-10-2008, 07:41 AM   #1287
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one more question ........ i notice there are different color clutches which one is best or which one last the longest?
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Old 03-10-2008, 09:10 AM   #1288
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one more question ........ i notice there are different color clutches which one is best or which one last the longest?
i would use the grey shoe it has average wear once you get that dialed in you can try the yellow i have not seen anyone run the red shoe
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Old 03-10-2008, 11:14 AM   #1289
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team STPN: at speedworld most of the guys are running 8.9-9.0mm for the spring and .35mm for gap with an extra thurst washer under the clutch bell for spacing
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Old 03-10-2008, 12:11 PM   #1290
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I would suggest going .5mm for gap in Novarossi/OS engines and .6 gap for Picco/Sirio based engines. I have tried .4mm and .3mm in my TZ and it seemed like a OS CV I was trying to tune. The difference between .5 and .3 is huge. Also for the spring... The way I tighten it (depending on the engine) is to see like 2 threads of the nut. Then I keep tightening it from the outside to get the punch I want.
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