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Old 01-09-2008, 04:20 AM   #1081
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I have the same problem. I used a lot of shims though in order for the clutch bell not rubbing on the clutch shoe and spin freely, I used around 13 shims.
At the end there was a 0.4mm clutch play without adding any shims for adjusting clutch play.
is this normal?
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Old 01-09-2008, 04:31 AM   #1082
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The cones that go on the crank are not all the same. If you have a few others, try and see if there's a difference. If not, grind a bit of the backside of the cone (bearng side).
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Old 01-09-2008, 04:45 AM   #1083
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The cones that go on the crank are not all the same. If you have a few others, try and see if there's a difference. If not, grind a bit of the backside of the cone (bearng side).
also the crankshafts aren't the same long, I face this problems when I change my IDM evo2 for the IDM evo3, I added some shims to fit .04mm play clearence
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Old 01-09-2008, 11:23 AM   #1084
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I had the same issues, no room for shims. Then I broke out my full size car tools and cranked down on the flywheel nut thing and bamm room for shims.
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Old 01-09-2008, 03:56 PM   #1085
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sllo View Post
I have the same problem. I used a lot of shims though in order for the clutch bell not rubbing on the clutch shoe and spin freely, I used around 13 shims.
At the end there was a 0.4mm clutch play without adding any shims for adjusting clutch play.
is this normal?
Rather than using all those shims I use one of the thrust bearings halves as a spacer and then I add the shims to that. Once you have the clutch bell shimmed away from the clutch shoe properly and If you don't have enough clearance for endplay adjustment that is when you have to play around with the flywheel collet. I have a couple different ones; if that doesn't work then I grind the bearing side of the collet. the best procedure I've found to adjust and assemble a Centax clutch is Josh Cyrul procedure. Checkout CEFX. Hope this helps
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Old 01-09-2008, 06:07 PM   #1086
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lil-bump View Post
Rather than using all those shims I use one of the thrust bearings halves as a spacer and then I add the shims to that. Once you have the clutch bell shimmed away from the clutch shoe properly and If you don't have enough clearance for endplay adjustment that is when you have to play around with the flywheel collet. I have a couple different ones; if that doesn't work then I grind the bearing side of the collet. the best procedure I've found to adjust and assemble a Centax clutch is Josh Cyrul procedure. Checkout CEFX. Hope this helps
i'm not a fan of the mugen shims, nor the thrust bearing washers. i know alot of guys use this technique, but i found that they sometimes cause binding on the bell movement if the two bearings leave a small amount of room for the shims to creep into the bearing space of the clutch bell.

i've used the smaller diameter kyosho shims, and it seems to move freer...but maybe that is just my imagination as i know a few of the pro's use the thrust bearing washer
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Old 01-09-2008, 06:37 PM   #1087
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You are correct. I don't use the mugen shims inside the clutchbell either. I use one of the thrust bearing half( half with the small ID) inside the clutch with the race facing towards the engine and I then add Kyosho shims. the Kyosho shims have the correct OD just to put force on the inner race of the clutchbell bearings. hope this makes sense.
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Old 01-09-2008, 06:46 PM   #1088
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i'm not a fan of the mugen shims, nor the thrust bearing washers. i know alot of guys use this technique, but i found that they sometimes cause binding on the bell movement if the two bearings leave a small amount of room for the shims to creep into the bearing space of the clutch bell.

i've used the smaller diameter kyosho shims, and it seems to move freer...but maybe that is just my imagination as i know a few of the pro's use the thrust bearing washer
same here tom i use the kyosho shims on the inside of the bell and the mugen shims on the thrust bearing side.

i find that makes the clutch as free as possible.

cheers m.stone
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Old 01-09-2008, 07:17 PM   #1089
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Originally Posted by lil-bump View Post
You are correct. I don't use the mugen shims inside the clutchbell either. I use one of the thrust bearing half( half with the small ID) inside the clutch with the race facing towards the engine and I then add Kyosho shims. the Kyosho shims have the correct OD just to put force on the inner race of the clutchbell bearings. hope this makes sense.
What's the part number for those shims and where can I buy them?

Thanks
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Old 01-09-2008, 07:21 PM   #1090
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What's the part number for those shims and where can I buy them?

Thanks
yeah same here. I scabbed some shims of a mate (twiggy) and never gave them back
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Old 01-09-2008, 07:28 PM   #1091
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I got mine from THE 2007 GLC. Josh Cyrul had them trackside. I would call his shop. He is a Kyosho dealer.
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Old 01-09-2008, 08:08 PM   #1092
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ok thanks
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Old 01-09-2008, 11:31 PM   #1093
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Default To spool or not to spool!

Can somebody give me an idea on when to use a front spool as apposed to a one-way. What affect will it have on the handling compared to a one-way.
Thanks
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Old 01-10-2008, 01:48 AM   #1094
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Front Spool as in a locked axle? Well compared to the one-way it will be way different. The Front Spool basically acts like a differential.(thats what i reckon anyway). Giving power to both of the wheels up front, thus giving it more traction unlike the one way where it can easily slide out especially under heavy braking conditions cause it's kind of only a 2wd sequence??(Anyone correct me if I am wrong). So yes definetly use the locked axle instead of the one-way. Anyways, a question from me. I broke the left Rear Upright on my mtx4-r yesterday. Is the mtx-3 rear upright the same or is it different. Because i have plenty of spare mtx uprights, just no mtx4 ones.

Cheers,
Tim
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Old 01-10-2008, 01:53 AM   #1095
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Originally Posted by ViperSkull View Post
Front Spool as in a locked axle? Well compared to the one-way it will be way different. The Front Spool basically acts like a differential.(thats what i reckon anyway). Giving power to both of the wheels up front, thus giving it more traction unlike the one way where it can easily slide out especially under heavy braking conditions cause it's kind of only a 2wd sequence??(Anyone correct me if I am wrong). So yes definetly use the locked axle instead of the one-way. Anyways, a question from me. I broke the left Rear Upright on my mtx4-r yesterday. Is the mtx-3 rear upright the same or is it different. Because i have plenty of spare mtx uprights, just no mtx4 ones.

Cheers,
Tim
rear upright is totally different, i believe the screw holes to attach to the baulks are similar though as i installed my mtx4 rear tower on my mates 3 once..and yeah the 3 handled a little better
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