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Old 01-03-2008, 10:02 PM   #1036
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Default Hot cross mugens

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Wouldn't a microwave be faster? Sorry I had to say it.
I did mine on the BQ, just make sure you keep turning with snags,or
one side ''FITS BETTER THAN THE OTHER''. LOL LOL
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Old 01-03-2008, 10:26 PM   #1037
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Heat it with charcoal to get BBQ flavor if you want.
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Old 01-03-2008, 10:39 PM   #1038
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Scott what do you think of this bake thing
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Old 01-03-2008, 10:55 PM   #1039
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I have never heard of this. Heating your car in the oven to 176 degrees Fahrenheit. Sounds interesting. If this is going to do anything, it might make the parts fit a bit better. What I think would happen is that the parts would fit better when they are hot as the plastic may be a bit softer, but when the plastic cools it will go back to its original shape. My car fits together quite well already. I use tools to make the suspension free, so I am not sure if there is any benefit to this, but I don't see it hurting anything either at that temperature.

This ranks up there with boiling the plastic. I know many people think that it softens the plastic and I admit I have never done this either. I am very skeptical that boiling the plastic has any real effect on its "brittleness". Plastic is not water based, so I don't believe that the boiling process has any changing effect on the plastic once the plastic reaches ambient temperature again. I have seen no data on this so I am totally speculating.
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Old 01-04-2008, 12:37 AM   #1040
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Not too sure if the applies to the graphte impregented plastics we use but I know produts like plastic strapping are often passed through steam or heated air to aneal the plastic after forming - I think it mainly acts as a surface treatment and reduces brittleness.
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Old 01-04-2008, 01:35 AM   #1041
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Ive read on nitrokb, that you can use the v1 rrr side belt on the mtx4. Are there any other belts from any other vehicles that you can use?
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Old 01-04-2008, 01:53 AM   #1042
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Fisher View Post
I have never heard of this. Heating your car in the oven to 176 degrees Fahrenheit. Sounds interesting. If this is going to do anything, it might make the parts fit a bit better. What I think would happen is that the parts would fit better when they are hot as the plastic may be a bit softer, but when the plastic cools it will go back to its original shape. My car fits together quite well already. I use tools to make the suspension free, so I am not sure if there is any benefit to this, but I don't see it hurting anything either at that temperature.

This ranks up there with boiling the plastic. I know many people think that it softens the plastic and I admit I have never done this either. I am very skeptical that boiling the plastic has any real effect on its "brittleness". Plastic is not water based, so I don't believe that the boiling process has any changing effect on the plastic once the plastic reaches ambient temperature again. I have seen no data on this so I am totally speculating.
Hi Scott,

when the parts for our parts are molded, the molten polyamide is extruded into the mold under very high pressure, where it cools down very quickly. This leaves a lot of tension in the parts, which can make the parts warp under different temperatures.

if you temper them, you are releasing this tension while the part is in the position it is supposed to be. When the parts cool down slowly (other than in the original mold), they will stay in the shape they are in.

As you say, 176 F doesn't hurt polyamide, since it's way below it's melting point. Just try it next time you build a car.
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Old 01-04-2008, 08:46 PM   #1043
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Hi Everyone. I am trying to lighten my car. It is stock now. Which parts would give the most benefit. Are the titanium screw kits lighter than stock screws? Thanks
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Old 01-04-2008, 10:51 PM   #1044
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Hi Everyone. I am trying to lighten my car. It is stock now. Which parts would give the most benefit. Are the titanium screw kits lighter than stock screws? Thanks
Yes, the titanium screws are lighter than the stock steel screws. Also, go to www.ybslowinc.com and look at some of the hopups on his site. He has some aluminum drivetrain parts that replace steel. These will lighten the car in the drivetrain giving better acceleration.
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Old 01-05-2008, 02:42 AM   #1045
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if you want your car to be like a tc5 then heat up the arms and make them softer.
soft in plastic parts is imo bad.
and i did do the boiling of the rim thing some time ago in offroad and it did make them softer and they did not crack like normal.
as for fit,todays nitro and elc sedans parts fit prity darn good
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Old 01-05-2008, 04:47 AM   #1046
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Originally Posted by Scott Fisher View Post
Yes, the titanium screws are lighter than the stock steel screws. Also, go to www.ybslowinc.com and look at some of the hopups on his site. He has some aluminum drivetrain parts that replace steel. These will lighten the car in the drivetrain giving better acceleration.
Also don't forget to get yourself a set of titanium hinge pins, pillow balls and front and rear links!
Using all those together you should get the weight down!
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Old 01-05-2008, 08:02 AM   #1047
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You guys are talking about annealing. When you heat polymers to a temp that is specific for each material and cool it slowly you will make it less brittle and relieve stresses in the part. We do this on most of our extrusions at work.

Benefits of plastic annealing

*The immediate benefits of annealing plastic are a blank or part that is stable and ready for finishing.
*Long-term benefits include increased dimensional stability and the integrity of the part.
* Shrinkage or expansion of the part is reduced as the plastic part ages because the internal stress is removed.
*The integrity of the part can be compromised due to surface stress cracks that can develop if the material is susceptible to stress cracking and it has been polished or machined improperly.
*Long drilled holes that have been burned will eventually radiate cracks if not properly annealed.
*Screw threads are a feature in a plastic component that benefits from annealing. Part failure can occur since the screw places a steady long-term stress on the component in combination with the residual stress from the machining process. Annealing the part reduces the machining stress at the threads and in most cases, the screw stress alone is not normally enough to cause part failure.

Now, is a MTX4R worth purchasing if you need to upgrade the chassis to the 4mm in the original build? Why do people say that is the route cause of gear stripping when an R40 Hara edition chassis is only 2.5mm?
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Old 01-05-2008, 04:31 PM   #1048
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Originally Posted by Scott Fisher View Post
Yes, the titanium screws are lighter than the stock steel screws. Also, go to www.ybslowinc.com and look at some of the hopups on his site. He has some aluminum drivetrain parts that replace steel. These will lighten the car in the drivetrain giving better acceleration.
Tower Hobbies has a titanium set from "RC Screwz" are they any good?? Also when mounting servo is it necessary to use the rubber isolators and eyelets supplied with the servo?? Thanks
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Old 01-05-2008, 05:16 PM   #1049
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Tower Hobbies has a titanium set from "RC Screwz" are they any good?? Also when mounting servo is it necessary to use the rubber isolators and eyelets supplied with the servo?? Thanks
RcScrewz are not titanium, they are stainless steel. I used to use the rubber isolators and eyelets, but I do not use them for about the last year.
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Old 01-05-2008, 05:22 PM   #1050
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Ive read on nitrokb, that you can use the v1 rrr side belt on the mtx4. Are there any other belts from any other vehicles that you can use?
So no one knows?
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