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Old 11-12-2007, 07:19 AM   #796
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Hey guys new member here!!!

I am in the middle of building the MTX4-R (my first RC kit) and I may be haveing a bit of trouble with the front dogbones (universals).

They seem to be just a hair long and they are binding up the front a-arms. Now I know what you are thinking.....he is using the rear dogbones for the front application. Well this is not the case, I have double and tripple checked that I am using the correct ones.

Any ideas???

I also noticed that the manual I have and the manual I downloaded from the Mugen website differ with this topic. The manual I downloaded from the website uses the dogbones and the manual in the kit uses universal joints.

I guess the easy thing to do would be to grind them down a bit but I do not want to do this if I don't have to.

Is there something I am missing here?

Thanks for any and all help.
If you are 100% sure that you didn't mixed up the front and rear CVD bones, then you should check these area :

1. adjust the front track width, with tires on should be around 198mm, 199mm, or 200mm.
2. remove the 1mm plastic shim inserted between the outdrive and one way unit. Perhaps this is the easiest solution.
3. No binding in suspension arms. The arms should be able to fall under its own weight, ---> free movement up & down.
4. Rebuild the CVD and put oil in CVD joints. The CVD should be able to rotate smoothly even at 45 degree angle.
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Old 11-12-2007, 08:22 AM   #797
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NITROREA don't grind anything! Keep in mind your building an onroad car that rides 5mm above the ground. The suspension travel will be very limited and may seem to bind the CVD's at the full compression / up travel by hand. But once on the car with the proper track width and ride height set NOTHING will bind due to the short amount of suspension movement that's need to work properly. IF you set you car up with about 2 mm of droop and 5 mm of ride height the TOTAL suspension movement would be ABOUT 7mm maybe 8 mm while in use.

You should not need to grind anything away. Also if your using the CVD's you will NOT need any orings in the out drives. These are used to keep the dog bones centered within the inner and outer out drives. The CVD being "hard mounted" will not slide around.

Hope that helps.
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Old 11-12-2007, 10:35 AM   #798
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Default MTX-4 parts for sale

Brand new and cheap.


http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=190481
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Old 11-12-2007, 12:46 PM   #799
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It wasn't so much the CVD's binding as it was the front uprights binding a bit. It seems they were hard to turn from side to side especially when they were closer to center. Now that I think about it I think I have the pivot balls screwed in to tight. I think if I screw those out a bit (not to increase track width over 200mm) things will work more freely. Where they are now the CVD or dogbone was tight against the drive cup coming off the front one way. So when you turned the uprights closer to being straight it was pushing the CVD against the back of the drive cup....if that makes sense.

Sorry for the grinding thing, it must have made some people cringe. It's just the mechanic in me....if it doesn't fit, make it!!!
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Old 11-12-2007, 01:27 PM   #800
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Hey guys have a brand new MTX4R built and ready to go with a few goodies.

Kind of an impulse buy and need a few dollars at this point for indoor offroad. For sale on the for sale forum. Price is negotiable in order to get this thing gone. Pm me if interested, pictures available on request via email. Thanks.
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Old 11-13-2007, 08:07 AM   #801
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Originally Posted by Nitrorea View Post
It wasn't so much the CVD's binding as it was the front uprights binding a bit. It seems they were hard to turn from side to side especially when they were closer to center. Now that I think about it I think I have the pivot balls screwed in to tight. I think if I screw those out a bit (not to increase track width over 200mm) things will work more freely. Where they are now the CVD or dogbone was tight against the drive cup coming off the front one way. So when you turned the uprights closer to being straight it was pushing the CVD against the back of the drive cup....if that makes sense.

Sorry for the grinding thing, it must have made some people cringe. It's just the mechanic in me....if it doesn't fit, make it!!!
I would suggest if you are worried about the binding at the moment that you need to get at least a basic setup over the front end before checking for binding by getting some wheels on it and doing the camber by eye - set the track width to 199mm

Before checking binding you need to do 2 things loosen the rollbar off and move the front arms up and down to make sure you have enough clearance in bot halfs and set your droop as you will find this moves the arms up quite a bit and reduces the travel.
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Old 11-13-2007, 06:17 PM   #802
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World Q works well, but if you can get your hands on the mugen one get it, Pro Shop Futaba carry these as well as your Kawahara gear you need, top ppl to deal with and at a very good price and they ship to Aust (EMS) get my gear in 3 days to the door
hey mugunville do you know how much a mugen starter is delivered to aus from pro shop?
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Old 11-13-2007, 06:22 PM   #803
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Now that I think about it I think I have the pivot balls screwed in to tight
yep you nailed it. You cant screw the pivot ball screws all the way in with the universals or they bind. As others have said, your track will be too narrow if you do anyway
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Old 11-17-2007, 03:49 PM   #804
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weeee, i'm almost done with the mtx, all i need to do is the shocks and paint my parma m.






notice the one-piece engine mount from kyosho?



enjoy.
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Old 11-17-2007, 05:45 PM   #805
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WOW, that is a thing of beauty! Nice work!! Be sure to show us the body when you are done. I hope to show a couple off in a few months.
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Old 11-17-2007, 09:06 PM   #806
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Hey guys... Im selling my backup car and my backup engines... Heres the link:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?p=3877297
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Old 11-18-2007, 09:18 AM   #807
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hey guys i need some help.... i finish building my mtx4r and im having a hard time finding a mugen pipe and manifold..... please help with any info where i can order one ..... you can also pm me with info as well

blaze

Last edited by bobbyblaze; 11-13-2010 at 04:37 AM.
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Old 11-18-2007, 10:29 AM   #808
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hey guys i need some help.... i finish building my mtx4r and im having a hard time finding a mugen pipe and manifold..... please help with any info where i can order one ..... you can also pm me with info as well

blaze
you can have your lhs order from mugen racing just the shimo efra 2609 pipe along with the ninja long header, since the pipe/manifold is no longer available

happy racing
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Old 11-18-2007, 10:47 AM   #809
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thanks, i have one more question someone mention that ofna have a pipe as well ....stock #10066 .....how is that pipe

blaze
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Old 11-18-2007, 11:04 AM   #810
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thanks, i have one more question someone mention that ofna have a pipe as well ....stock #10066 .....how is that pipe

blaze
that;s the x12 pipe, the mugen 2609 is better quality and performance! match it with any engine and tha's a winner, some consider the 2609 one of the best all around pipes
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