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Old 10-15-2007, 09:09 PM   #691
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Originally Posted by JayL View Post
nope

tamiya 415mre electric on-road

mugen mtx-4 nitro on-road

tamiya 501x off-road electric
Then you were then one that sat next to me with the buggy that one day right?



So you guys say run it stock, I will do that if I go through with nitro, I may buy more elec stuff, so we will see

Im pretty set on nitro though... Then I can race nitro one month, and then elec one month all at the same track
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Old 10-15-2007, 10:03 PM   #692
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So you guys say run it stock, I will do that if I go through with nitro, I may buy more elec stuff, so we will see

Im pretty set on nitro though... Then I can race nitro one month, and then elec one month all at the same track
BOR:
We're having a club race/swap meet at SpeedWorld this coming Sunday. So if you get a chance, come check out the guys running the MTX-4R.
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Old 10-15-2007, 10:36 PM   #693
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BOR:
We're having a club race/swap meet at SpeedWorld this coming Sunday. So if you get a chance, come check out the guys running the MTX-4R.
I am coming out

Racing fri, Another sat hang out with my buddy, and then back again for the swap meet

I have been to several races, and the mugen cup, so I have seen the races... But id like to meet some people
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Old 10-17-2007, 08:51 AM   #694
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hi here localy we have a track which is a bit bumpy and quite technical, with my MTX4 I am suffering of a bit of a loose end, I have put the shocks down on the inner last hole, still I have to try it since the weather its not nice at the moment. front diff is spool diff and rear is with 10,000 diff oil. If I remove the anti roll bar will it improve more? I gave it toe in aswell from the rear. the engine that I am using is IDM Picco 12.

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Old 10-17-2007, 08:58 AM   #695
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hi here localy we have a track which is a bit bumpy and quite technical, with my MTX4 I am suffering of a bit of a loose end, I have put the shocks down on the inner last hole, still I have to try it since the weather its not nice at the moment. front diff is spool diff and rear is with 10,000 diff oil. If I remove the anti roll bar will it improve more? I gave it toe in aswell from the rear. the engine that I am using is IDM Picco 12.

Joe F
I am assuming you are loose on power exiting turns? try to loosen the clutch a little at a time and run a higher front droop value to allow more rear weight transfer. Rear toe should probably not be higher than 3 each side.
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Old 10-17-2007, 11:56 AM   #696
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I am assuming you are loose on power exiting turns? try to loosen the clutch a little at a time and run a higher front droop value to allow more rear weight transfer. Rear toe should probably not be higher than 3 each side.
and what do you think about the anti roll bar, if I will remove it?

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Old 10-17-2007, 12:17 PM   #697
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you can take it off to get more roll in the rear, but I would first make sure your rear lower hinge pins are in the bottom hole.
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Old 10-18-2007, 04:11 AM   #698
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Hey guys, I'm using the solid axle and using diff oil in my rear diff (50,000 grade). Now my question is, would 50,000 grade diff oil be over powering the front solid axle?
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Old 10-18-2007, 04:45 AM   #699
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shouldn't be over powering a solid
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Old 10-18-2007, 06:15 AM   #700
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Wow, I think this MTX-4R goes down as the longest build - 3 weeks

In all honesty, I have built a number of Mugens, Kyosho's, Xrays etc in the past, and I was suprised the amount of modifications I had to make to get things to work properly.

The 12-3SCT was also tricky because the carby rubber would bind with the top plate or side brace, so the old file and countersunk screws had to be used. The carb just clears the top plate by 1mm if less.

Then again, It could just be my old age
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Old 10-18-2007, 06:31 AM   #701
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ran my first meet with my mtx4-r.. love it... despite losing a set screw and therefore drive to the rear wheels during the final and costing me a potential win (still came 2nd) ...must have forgotten the good old loctite on that set screw..

anyhoo.. does anyone know where I can find an RC SCREWZ kit for the MTX4-R ? (RCZMUG015) everywhere seems to be out of stock

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Old 10-18-2007, 06:51 AM   #702
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Originally Posted by Novarossi View Post
Wow, I think this MTX-4R goes down as the longest build - 3 weeks

In all honesty, I have built a number of Mugens, Kyosho's, Xrays etc in the past, and I was suprised the amount of modifications I had to make to get things to work properly.

The 12-3SCT was also tricky because the carby rubber would bind with the top plate or side brace, so the old file and countersunk screws had to be used. The carb just clears the top plate by 1mm if less.

Then again, It could just be my old age
Wow! 3 weeks??? Mine took like 3 days with me working on it about 6 hours a day... What kind of modifications have you had to make?
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Old 10-18-2007, 06:52 AM   #703
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ran my first meet with my mtx4-r.. love it... despite losing a set screw and therefore drive to the rear wheels during the final and costing me a potential win (still came 2nd) ...must have forgotten the good old loctite on that set screw..

anyhoo.. does anyone know where I can find an RC SCREWZ kit for the MTX4-R ? (RCZMUG015) everywhere seems to be out of stock

Im looking for it too... My LHS says they have it in backorder... Lemme know if you happen to find it
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Old 10-18-2007, 09:32 AM   #704
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I just logged onto Rcscrewz.com and while I did not buy the screw kit, I did get all the way to the payment part of the checkout procedure and it never told me the screw kit was backordered.
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Old 10-18-2007, 11:55 AM   #705
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guys

regardless of what servo or receiver!
whick rx pack will provide longer runtime
a 4 or 5 cell, or the same runtime? considering they have the same capacity
and the fact that my servos will be slower and less torque

happy racing
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