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Old 10-09-2007, 06:25 AM   #616
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when using a locked diff in front, what diff oil I will use for the rear? At the moment it has 10,000, which came with the kit.

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Old 10-09-2007, 10:58 AM   #617
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rc-champ has good prices on the kawahara stuff, mugen too, I have gotten all my stuff from them, including my osspeed spec II
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Old 10-09-2007, 05:44 PM   #618
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Originally Posted by TomB View Post
never use k factory or 3 laling, it's shit... trust me.
Sato seiki aint to crash hot either, it might be a japanese name, but i think it is chinese manufactured.
noone else makes lightweight driveshafts tho

hey Tom do you use 10k oil in your rear diff? Jay said i should put 30k in?
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Old 10-09-2007, 06:31 PM   #619
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Originally Posted by Joe Tanto View Post
when using a locked diff in front, what diff oil I will use for the rear? At the moment it has 10,000, which came with the kit.

Joe F
Does any one know?
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Old 10-09-2007, 06:43 PM   #620
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if you want nice stuff, you dont want 3racing. You're better off getting a few kawahara bits than a whole car of 3racing

Ohhh I agree 100%.... I will wait longer to get my car done right then with 3 racing (no offence to people that use there parts...)

Just dont like there parts, BAD experiences in the past..

Quote:
Originally Posted by TomB View Post
never use k factory or 3 laling, it's shit... trust me.
Sato seiki aint to crash hot either, it might be a japanese name, but i think it is chinese manufactured.
Yeah, I need my car to be tough, especially for how fast the gas cars go when they hit 2nd

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rc-champ has good prices on the kawahara stuff, mugen too, I have gotten all my stuff from them, including my osspeed spec II
I will go take a look
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Old 10-09-2007, 07:32 PM   #621
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Hey all,

I built the 2 speed tonight and figured out the shoe spacing adjustment. The tension adjustment does not seem to be the best to say the least. What methods do your guys use to ensure the tension is equal on both springs?

Thanks!
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Old 10-09-2007, 07:39 PM   #622
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Although I run a G4S, it is filled with K Factory. K Factory is NOT SHIT!!! Don't even compair K Factory with 3 racing. I have NEVER had a K Factory part fail. There is absolutely NO problems with K Factory, in fact it is very durable (at least the G4S stuff is). 3 racing on the other hand is pretty cheaply made. Especially their engine mounts that I have heard by many people that break easily. I do agree that Kawahara is killer stuff, but if they don't make it and K Factory does, you will be ok. Trust me!
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Old 10-09-2007, 07:47 PM   #623
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Hey all,

I built the 2 speed tonight and figured out the shoe spacing adjustment. The tension adjustment does not seem to be the best to say the least. What methods do your guys use to ensure the tension is equal on both springs?

Thanks!
Dude, when the 2-speed is out of the car, adjust BOTH screw in all the way until they bottom out, just don't over torque them. Just until they stop. Then note the position of your wrench and make sure you turn each screw out the same number of turns, 2, 2.5, 3 whatever is recommended. It's just easier when it's out of the car. Hope this is what you were asking. Good luck.
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Old 10-09-2007, 09:10 PM   #624
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Dude, when the 2-speed is out of the car, adjust BOTH screw in all the way until they bottom out, just don't over torque them. Just until they stop. Then note the position of your wrench and make sure you turn each screw out the same number of turns, 2, 2.5, 3 whatever is recommended. It's just easier when it's out of the car. Hope this is what you were asking. Good luck.
Thanks for the reply. This is what I wanted to originally do however I was worried about crushing the springs.

Does anyone have basic turnout settings?

Thanks!!
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Old 10-09-2007, 10:47 PM   #625
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Originally Posted by jj_spike View Post
Thanks for the reply. This is what I wanted to originally do however I was worried about crushing the springs.

Does anyone have basic turnout settings?

Thanks!!
the book is a good starting point
and you will find you will loosen it up more to shift right.
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Old 10-09-2007, 10:49 PM   #626
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomB View Post
never use k factory or 3 laling, it's shit... trust me.
Sato seiki aint to crash hot either, it might be a Japanese name, but i think it is chinese manufactured.

ok
and 3 racing is not very good.
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Old 10-10-2007, 12:46 AM   #627
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Originally Posted by wallyedmonds View Post
the book is a good starting point
and you will find you will loosen it up more to shift right.
The instructions have the tension screws flush where the screw exits on the other side - this is a good place to start. Set the middle screws so they are even and there is just a little clearance in the clutch bell. Make sure the gap is even on both sides you probably will be able to see 1/3 to half of the ball.
The second gear change point is also dependant on tune getting the car warm etc. So when you first run don't panic too much about the shift point until the shoes wear in and the car is warm.

There is also a FAQ somewhere about setting up second gear if it changes too hard you may start wrecking spur gears.
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Old 10-10-2007, 03:19 AM   #628
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Does any one know?
for low to medium traction between 10000wt and 30000wt, for medium to high traction 30000wt to 50000wt
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Old 10-10-2007, 04:18 AM   #629
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Originally Posted by chookgb View Post
for low to medium traction between 10000wt and 30000wt, for medium to high traction 30000wt to 50000wt
Thanx for the info. Very helpful
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Old 10-10-2007, 08:21 AM   #630
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chookgb View Post
for low to medium traction between 10000wt and 30000wt, for medium to high traction 30000wt to 50000wt
thanks

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