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Old 10-01-2007, 05:27 PM   #571
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with a ninja you wont have to mod or file anything.
just saying.
there also wont be rivalry between your chassis and engine
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Old 10-01-2007, 06:10 PM   #572
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Cool thanks craigm.
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Old 10-03-2007, 08:04 AM   #573
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Hey all,

I am just starting my MTX-4R build and the very first step is to use "rubber glue" to affix the break pads to the metal shoes. Is rubber cement the same as rubber glue? Is there a better choice? Will this hold-up under frequent breaking?

If anyone could provide other "gotchas" for the rest of my build, I would really appreciate it.

Cheers!!

JJ
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Old 10-03-2007, 08:33 AM   #574
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Hey all,

I am just starting my MTX-4R build and the very first step is to use "rubber glue" to affix the break pads to the metal shoes. Is rubber cement the same as rubber glue? Is there a better choice? Will this hold-up under frequent breaking?

If anyone could provide other "gotchas" for the rest of my build, I would really appreciate it.

Cheers!!

JJ
yes rubber glue, rubber cement, all the same thing, you can even use CA glue if you don't have anything else, although CA glue may eventually crack of.

things i do when building:
-if you like, sand edges of CF under water (to avoid breathing toxic dust) and then bead edges with a cotton tip and CA glue.

-make sure arms are free of binding.

-use a long screw instead of the grub screw on the rear hub. i also install a washer on the inside and outside screws of the camber links to avoid them poping out in a big crash. i installa small washer the diameter of the pivot nut before the washer though so that the ball end can move freely up without binding on the washer when the arm is fully compressed up. see picture

that's about it really.
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Old 10-03-2007, 10:16 AM   #575
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Thanks for the tips! I am not 100% where all of these points are exactly however I should be able to figure it out when I get there.

Cheers!
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Old 10-03-2007, 10:36 AM   #576
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I wouldn't recommend sanding CF under water. Water and composites don't mix. If you plan on having the car for a long time (years), just buy one of those disposable masks and keep the water away.
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Old 10-03-2007, 06:50 PM   #577
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I wouldn't recommend sanding CF under water. Water and composites don't mix. If you plan on having the car for a long time (years), just buy one of those disposable masks and keep the water away.
this is how all the electric guys have been doing it for ages, and anyone else who has sanded carbon fibre, it's the safest and best way. the glue's used are waterproof.

don't use a mask dude, the sh1t will go all over your skin and masks don't stop it unless you have a good one. do it underwater, just check the recommendations of the electric racers and you will see it's the best method, and the most commonly used.

i've used this method on electrics and nitro, never had an issue.
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Old 10-03-2007, 07:08 PM   #578
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i dont sand at all
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Old 10-04-2007, 02:09 AM   #579
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haha god damn you tom, I've been looking for gold washers to match my engine and servo horns but all i can find is bloody blue
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Old 10-04-2007, 03:21 AM   #580
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haha god damn you tom, I've been looking for gold washers to match my engine and servo horns but all i can find is bloody blue
lol, i think kelletts actually have them dude! rc hobbies might as well...ive seen them somewhere don't remember where but...
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Old 10-04-2007, 03:45 AM   #581
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this is how all the electric guys have been doing it for ages, and anyone else who has sanded carbon fibre, it's the safest and best way. the glue's used are waterproof.

don't use a mask dude, the sh1t will go all over your skin and masks don't stop it unless you have a good one. do it underwater, just check the recommendations of the electric racers and you will see it's the best method, and the most commonly used.

i've used this method on electrics and nitro, never had an issue.
Well, I guess since you haven't had any cf fall apart yet, it must be okay. Those silly aircraft engineers must be worried about moisture getting into composites for no reason. I'll have to drop them an email to let them know they've been wrong the whole time.

Do what you want but if it were me, i'd get a mask and save the water for drinking.
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Old 10-04-2007, 03:57 AM   #582
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Originally Posted by JetMD View Post
Well, I guess since you haven't had any cf fall apart yet, it must be okay. Those silly aircraft engineers must be worried about moisture getting into composites for no reason. I'll have to drop them an email to let them know they've been wrong the whole time.

Do what you want but if it were me, i'd get a mask and save the water for drinking.
I too have been using TomB's method for many years (beginning with the good old CF top deck for the RS4) to the MTX3, Xray T2, and now the 4R with never an issue.

I'd rather "risk" the possibility of CF splitting then breathing the stuff in (not to mention exposing two young kids to it)
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Old 10-04-2007, 02:11 PM   #583
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I never send my CF part but I put multi layer of CA to seal up every cutting (cut off, screw holes, and outside edge) because I often wash it with detergent and water. i don't want them to split or the resin between each layer of CF to melt away (it might not happen but i rather be safe)
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Old 10-04-2007, 07:49 PM   #584
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I do not think carbon fibre and water are an issue. My road bicycle's frame, wheels and components are carbon fibre and it sees the rain quite often. Moisture should not affect the cured resin.

Thanks

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Old 10-04-2007, 07:54 PM   #585
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I just built the front one-way tonight. I do not know what they are called off hand but they look like this --[ (the dog bones fit into them).

These parts fit into the one-way bearings and are locked into place via pins. If they are locked via the pins, why do they fit into the one-way bearings? They are unable to turn so why the bearings??? Am I missing something??

Thanks!

JJ
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