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Old 06-02-2011, 06:19 AM   #3856
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hi, what was the problem and how you did you overcome the issue??
The 2 speed shaft was not installed correctly which was causing it to move and push the spur gears out. Once the gears moved the mesh was wrong and second gear would strip. I rebuilt the rear of the car and payed more attention to that area to make sure everything was put back together right. Since then no more gear problems.
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Old 06-02-2011, 09:43 AM   #3857
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The 2 speed shaft was not installed correctly which was causing it to move and push the spur gears out. Once the gears moved the mesh was wrong and second gear would strip. I rebuilt the rear of the car and payed more attention to that area to make sure everything was put back together right. Since then no more gear problems.
right, i assemble the 2 speed shaft with a 6x10x0.2mm shim and tie the side pulley next to the pipe strongly until the one way wont move, and then i remove the shim, thats the minimum endplay that the shaft should have so the one way will spin freely
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Old 06-02-2011, 09:45 AM   #3858
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right, i assemble the 2 speed shaft with a 6x10x0.2mm shim and tie the side pulley next to the pipe strongly until the one way wont move, and then i remove the shim, thats the minimum endplay that the shaft should have so the one way will spin freely
forgot to mention the shim goes before the pin of the 2 speed gear!, some racers even use
more shims in order to avoid the 2 speed touching the chasis brace, others dremel a little bit
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Old 06-03-2011, 06:01 AM   #3859
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Do you guys use ceramic bearings in your clutch? I've gotten conflicting advise about this with some people saying ceramic is better and my LHS saying that steel is better because it is harder.
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Old 06-03-2011, 01:33 PM   #3860
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Thumbs up Pipe for novarrisi n12t1

I want the Novarossi n12t1 would think of this engine, and that pipe would recommend to walk well
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Old 06-03-2011, 02:19 PM   #3861
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I want the Novarossi n12t1 would think of this engine, and that pipe would recommend to walk well
I've read somewhere that 2601 is the ticket. I have run mine with 2660 and I can get 6 minutes for a tank. Very good motor but lacks some punch.
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Old 06-03-2011, 10:14 PM   #3862
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I like my N12T1, it's not like crazy fast or anything (great if your newish), but it was cheap and goes better than you would believe for it being that cheap, I ran my 2630 pipe with a short manifold on mine, seemed to suit it.
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Old 06-03-2011, 11:46 PM   #3863
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we race it in europe, and its the best buy for the power. Times are almost like the "fast" engine`s only a couple of tents off the times. Very good engine. I seems important how you break it in. get a soft clutch spring and don`t use the hard clutchspring is the ticket. Get the spur en clutch gear one tooth lighter you would have done with the 353 and you get the most fun you`ve ever had. The diference we experience is al littlelack of midrange punch. in germany they sell it for 160 euro as a hobbycup set with manifold and pipe. Its the stock nitro class with this combo.

its a little offtopic wouldn`t you think?

greetz jw
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Old 06-06-2011, 12:08 AM   #3864
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Hi guys,

I'm completely new to nitro cars (ie don't own one yet) but have an opportunity to pick up a new, partially built MTX4R for a reasonable price. I appreciate this model 4 or 5 years old now, but are parts still readily available for this car, and if so which is the nest source? I live in Australia but presume I would stock up on parts through online stores. Is the car reasonably durable/reliable, and easy enough to set up? I have a fair level of experience with EP touring cars, and can get help from a nitro guru on occasion.

I was considering an RTR pull start car like a Team Magic G4JS but can see myself wanting a better car quickly.

Thanks in advance,

Steve
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Old 06-06-2011, 01:37 AM   #3865
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Originally Posted by stephenianjames View Post
Hi guys,

I'm completely new to nitro cars (ie don't own one yet) but have an opportunity to pick up a new, partially built MTX4R for a reasonable price. I appreciate this model 4 or 5 years old now, but are parts still readily available for this car, and if so which is the nest source? I live in Australia but presume I would stock up on parts through online stores. Is the car reasonably durable/reliable, and easy enough to set up? I have a fair level of experience with EP touring cars, and can get help from a nitro guru on occasion.

I was considering an RTR pull start car like a Team Magic G4JS but can see myself wanting a better car quickly.

Thanks in advance,

Steve
If you want to stock up parts for mtx4r :

stock up level 1 : 1 chassis, few spur gears 53 and 59, more spur gears number 53, few pinion gears, more on pinion number 17, few hinge pins, more on rear hinge pins, few clutch shoes, few steering uprights, few bearings, few belts, front cvd, plastic connectors, lower bumper + foam bumper.

stock up level 2 : all the above plus 1 graphite upper deck, 1 radio plate tower, front and rear lower suspension arms, front and rear bulkheads, rear suspension mount, rear diff housing, front and rear cvd, titanium turnbuckles, all sort of plastic connectors, some collections of titanium screws 3x10, 3x12, 3x16, 3x20mm.

Tips for mtx4's spur gears broken syndrome : (1) use longer screws 3x12mm to hold rear bulkheads all together. I prefer to use 3x12mm screws for everything in the car as long as they are fit into the plastic. I use toothpick to measure depth. (2) make sure the 2 speed alumunium housing doesnt touch the plastic brace near the brake disc. Use shims to make extra space, or cut the plastic brace to make up some space. (3) use one piece engine mount.

Enjoy this hobby.
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Old 06-06-2011, 04:56 PM   #3866
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Thanks for your reply mate...much appreciated.

Cheers,

Steve
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Old 06-06-2011, 05:46 PM   #3867
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stephenianjames View Post
Hi guys,

I'm completely new to nitro cars (ie don't own one yet) but have an opportunity to pick up a new, partially built MTX4R for a reasonable price. I appreciate this model 4 or 5 years old now, but are parts still readily available for this car, and if so which is the nest source? I live in Australia but presume I would stock up on parts through online stores. Is the car reasonably durable/reliable, and easy enough to set up? I have a fair level of experience with EP touring cars, and can get help from a nitro guru on occasion.

I was considering an RTR pull start car like a Team Magic G4JS but can see myself wanting a better car quickly.

Thanks in advance,

Steve
rc champ or futaba pro shop, they have everything for mugen in japan so the shipping to australia wont be that much
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Old 06-11-2011, 07:32 PM   #3868
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Default Front drive belt very tight MTX4R.

Hi Guys,
I'm putting a new mtx4r together and only got as far as the front end before i found problems.
When i put the front drive shaft in with the bearing eccentric backed right off the belt is really tight, so tight the bearings are clicking.... !!

I have checked everything i can think of.
i have tried new belts.
urethane and rubber.
i have even cut the tag of the eccentric so i can roll them right to the min to get the front diff closer to the drive shaft.
I have tried different chassis's ( i have a few spares)
i ended up putting a few washers under the rear screws of the drive shaft housing to tilt it forward and this is still quite tight.

is this a problem any one else has had ?

Thanks
Steve H
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Old 06-12-2011, 04:37 AM   #3869
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Old 06-13-2011, 08:58 AM   #3870
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shanwright View Post
Hi Guys,
I'm putting a new mtx4r together and only got as far as the front end before i found problems.
When i put the front drive shaft in with the bearing eccentric backed right off the belt is really tight, so tight the bearings are clicking.... !!

I have checked everything i can think of.
i have tried new belts.
urethane and rubber.
i have even cut the tag of the eccentric so i can roll them right to the min to get the front diff closer to the drive shaft.
I have tried different chassis's ( i have a few spares)
i ended up putting a few washers under the rear screws of the drive shaft housing to tilt it forward and this is still quite tight.

is this a problem any one else has had ?

Thanks
Steve H
SO U TRIED THE ECCENTRICS FORWARD AND STILL NO FIX? MAY BE THE DIFF IS TOUCHING THE STEERING BALL LINKS WHICH NEEDS DREMEL IF USING SERVO SAVER A
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