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Old 04-26-2011, 04:56 AM   #3826
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Hey guys

My friend is having some problems with the gears on his mtx4r.

Three times it has stripped second gear. First we had no idea why but we think we have found the problem but dont know how to fix it.

The oneway bearing on the first gear push the bearing in the second gear out like 2-3mm, and then theres no clearance between first and second gear. So the second gear gets caught in the first gear and then it gets stripped.

We tried changing the oneway bearing in the first gear, we tried changing second gear housing and also with a new bearing. But same thing happened.

Anyone have any ideas whats wrong?

Thanks
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Old 04-26-2011, 09:11 AM   #3827
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[QUOTE=Sonsa;9020110]Hey guys

My friend is having some problems with the gears on his mtx4r.

Three times it has stripped second gear. First we had no idea why but we think we have found the problem but dont know how to fix it.

The oneway bearing on the first gear push the bearing in the second gear out like 2-3mm, and then theres no clearance between first and second gear. So the second gear gets caught in the first gear and then it gets stripped.

We tried changing the oneway bearing in the first gear, we tried changing second gear housing and also with a new bearing. But same thing happened.

Anyone have any ideas whats wrong?

Originally Posted by Seisick
hello straight away

1, make sure all the screws holding the brace and the radio tray are well tied.
2 make sure your engine bearings are in good shape with no movement and endplay whatsoever.
3 keep in mind that using steel pinions won't prevent you for stripping gears, steel or aluminun when in good shape are the same, but steel are 5g heavier
4 I assume you know how to adjust your centax, a good setup that is mostly used is to use 5mm gap and 0.1mm endplay, if you have an endplay larger than 0.2 you'll have such a endplay that the pinions(first or second) will not be in contact at all times with the spurs, in other words, you'll probably have the first or second too much towards the engine or farthest from the egine, and with on and off power it will be more appreciated.
5 once the centax is properly adjusted, check the space on the 2 speed shoe, depending on how old is the shoe, the space should be such that the shoes alomost touches the secong gear hub, why? the smaller the space of the shoes, the hardest the force applied on the 2 speed spur when engaged, therefore stripping, I adjust mine 'til the 2s peed hub will touch the shoes, from there, I back up a quarter at a time the set screws of the middle 'til the gear hub spins freely
6 the most important, align the engine without the pipe wire connected, or no pipe at all, doesn't matter, the alignment should be perfect, check that the pinions rest against the spurs, and check the centax on and off power, with the correct endplay, the pinions should be in contact at all times with the spurs, I prefer to adjust the gear mesh with only the 2 speed spur, when you think that the meshing is ok, check the position from both views, from bottom of the chasis and from top of the chasis, the spurs should be parallel to the pinions and viceversa, the entire spur should be in touch to the pinion, recheck centax endplay (on and off power) ir right, the spur contacts at all times with the pinion
6 needlees to say that your bell bearings should be in good shape, I personally prefer to use a 5x7x0.1mm between the two inner bearings, they'll prevent drag and therefore wear, I also use the same shim between the outer bell bearing and the thrust bearing, again drag and wear, and also between the belt tensioner bearings, If you'll use the shims keep in mind when adjusting the endplay or gap
7 finally if you ever go airborne for any reason on your car, let go the throttle, if not You'll most likely strip a gear due to the excesive flex caused by the collision, no car or chasis will stand such punishment
8 months and more than 5 gallons of use on my gears should be a statement that there's no problem with stripping gears.

i hope it helps and for final message, check below and see if that situation applies to you, even on one could make you strip gears
1 all the screws are well tied, specially the chasis braces,and graphite radio tray
2 the engine screws are well tied, both engine and chasis, switch the engine for 3x10cap and use 3x10 flat head on the chasis
3 engine bearing and clutch bell bearing in good shape and no play
4 clutch gap between 0.5-07mm, endplay 0.1mm
5 adjusted epa on throttle servo so it will not force the carb and therefore causing non desired flex, the same when using excesive brake
6 space of the 2 speed shoes at maximun without touching the 2 speed hub,
7 no drag between the 2 speed shoes and the chasis brace, if so, use a 6x8x0.2mm shim between the bearing and the pin, or dremel a litthe bit the brace so no drag or contact, therefore strip

good luck, happy racing and let me know how it went/
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Old 04-26-2011, 01:16 PM   #3828
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Mugen has 2 kind of centax clutch weight : one is solid without holes and another one is with two holes in it.

My question : Which type of clutch weight need more rpm to engage ?
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Old 04-26-2011, 01:29 PM   #3829
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Mugen has 2 kind of centax clutch weight : one is solid without holes and another one is with two holes in it.

My question : Which type of clutch weight need more rpm to engage ?
The one with holes...

Less weight, less centrifugal force...
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Old 04-26-2011, 03:32 PM   #3830
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Originally Posted by Sonsa View Post
Hey guys

My friend is having some problems with the gears on his mtx4r.

Three times it has stripped second gear. First we had no idea why but we think we have found the problem but dont know how to fix it.

The oneway bearing on the first gear push the bearing in the second gear out like 2-3mm, and then theres no clearance between first and second gear. So the second gear gets caught in the first gear and then it gets stripped.

We tried changing the oneway bearing in the first gear, we tried changing second gear housing and also with a new bearing. But same thing happened.

Anyone have any ideas whats wrong?

Thanks
one thing check your clutch bell i had a problem but found the clutch bell was warped after replacing it no problem
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Old 05-03-2011, 10:02 AM   #3831
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just rebuilt

Last edited by Ghett0; 12-20-2012 at 01:32 PM.
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Old 05-03-2011, 10:48 AM   #3832
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Originally Posted by Ghett0 View Post
just rebuilt, cant wait to see mtx 5, mtx4r is a beast regardless

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Old 05-05-2011, 08:05 AM   #3833
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Default MUGEN MTX4 BUMPY, TIGHT AND LOW TRACTION TRACK

I Hope i can tune properly at least the MTX 4 R look this :

Hi,

Can anybody help me !! .. i canīt find the right setup for my local unprepared parking lot track with low to medium traction, tight sections (Hairpin turns) combined with one bumpy wide turn.. but all around bumpy conditions in general. The thing is i need some good setup for my mugen mtx4. I run with rear diff 10K , front spool (One way looked), foam tires (37 to 40 shore depending weather). Thanks for your help cause a i need it bad !! i need your help for a fast setup..

Regards to all !!
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Old 05-05-2011, 02:28 PM   #3834
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If the traction is low, run a diff up front with 30k or 50k oil. Also quite often we use one shore softer tires up front than in the rear, helps to gain steering and even out tire wear during finals.
It's probably easier for people to help if you just don't cry "HELP", but provide your current setup and explain what do you think is wrong with the car. I am no world champ, but here's one setup that worked for me on one parking lot (not too bumpy though).
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Old 05-05-2011, 07:49 PM   #3835
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Default MUGEN MTX4 BUMPY, TIGHT AND LOW TRACTION SETUP

Jajaaa Ok iīn not a pussy ok?, just kiding.. my car has -0,5 toe in, -1 front camber, 1 mm shim Front Up rigth, ligth blue springs, 60 oil front shock, 2mm front droop, medium caster angle, not front suway bar, front spool. 6 mm ride heigth, rear uper arm with 0 shims, -2 rear toe in, -2 rear camber, light blue rar srping, 60 oil rear shock, rear diff with 10k, not rear estabilizer bar, rear droop 6mm, 7 mm rear ride heigth.

Tires 37 shore all around. Engine Novarrossi NS12S15, red clutch shoe, superhard clutch spring, 0.8 mm spring preload, bell free play with 0.5 mm, . Gaer ratio : 16-17 /60 and 22/54 , side pulley 23T, my track itīs pretty short with thigt turns both sides and just one wide turn and in fact itīs the most bumpy track section. Thats it !! with this set-up iīm the second and third best lap time and final position... but the thing is: i donīt now nothing about roll center to improve my time, nothing about tire true split? always run with the same tire size front and rear, my rear tires always as a result ends much lower than front ones..

I noticed some push after the main 15 min thatīs the big isuue ! and trough the bumpy section my car doesnīt turn well, heīs jumpping to much i canīr take it with full throttle and there is where the first guy itīs doing the track time, i mean 0,4 Seg less !!

I hope you guys can give some smart advise

Regards to all !!
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Old 05-13-2011, 05:30 AM   #3836
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Can someone please tell me how to adjust my front and rear downstops?

Thanks!!
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Old 05-13-2011, 07:14 AM   #3837
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Originally Posted by Delawareguy View Post
Can someone please tell me how to adjust my front and rear downstops?

Thanks!!
Hey, whats going on man? I am pretty sure you race at the blue diamond in DE. Anyway this is G-Mac. If it does not rain this weekend and you come out we can all help you out at the track.

G-Mac
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Old 05-13-2011, 09:03 AM   #3838
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Can someone please tell me how to adjust my front and rear downstops?

Thanks!!

theres a set screw in each suspension arm adjust accordingly using downstop gauge and
blocs below chasis
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Old 05-13-2011, 09:38 AM   #3839
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theres a set screw in each suspension arm adjust accordingly using downstop gauge and
blocs below chasis
Are you talking about the set screws that press down on the front sway bar? Those are the only ones that I see but I thought they adjusted droop.
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Old 05-13-2011, 03:19 PM   #3840
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Are you talking about the set screws that press down on the front sway bar? Those are the only ones that I see but I thought they adjusted droop.
If you are thinking downstops as in the bump stops, or travel limiting screws, you never use those. The droop (or downstop screws as everyone else calls them), are in the rear arms, and inside of the bulkheads (they dont actually press on the swaybar ).
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